Move over Disney World.  The real magic kingdom is Yellowstone in winter! It’s simply an adventure that is only appreciated through personal experience.  While I generally visit the park in early spring (May 20) or late fall (September 25), I had a few extra days between Christmas and the new year, so on the spur of the moment, Heidi and I hit the road. There is just one road open for motor vehicles in winter, from Cooke City on the east to Mammoth Hot Springs on the north, but that is where all the action is.  The road goes through Lamar Valley, which is home to the Druid wolf pack, as well as herds and herds of bison and elk.  And why else would you brave the below freezing temps and two feet of snow on the ground except to see the wolves?

And see the wolves I did.  They were in their "spot" each day, which is observable from the road with good binoculars (just watch for the crowd �?which is very limited in winter), but they gave me a special viewing after munching on a "kill" and coming very close to the road so that I could watch them up close and pretty personal.  I could see their silvery coats and the glint in their eyes that suggested they ruled their territory and were at peace with the world.  They danced around and romped in the snow, stopping every so often to howl and let their voices echo through the valley.

There were lots of elk and bison very close to the road, foraging for hidden food.  The bison swing their heads to and fro to scrape the ground for grasses, while the elk paw the snow with their hoofs.  Apparently they find enough to fill their bellies, for much of the day is spent nestled down on beds of snow.

We had many sightings of Bald Eagles, which, as many times as I've seen them, it's always a thrill to spot just one more.  They seemed to be a lot more active during this time of year.  I also saw Golden Eagles, bands of Big Horn Sheep and Coyotes.  But, oh, the coyotes.  They were very hungry (since the introduction of the wolves took their "top spot" in the pecking order away), and one was walking in the middle of the road begging for handouts.  I wanted to put him, or her, in my car and take him home to a nice warm house, with lots of food and hugs.  It was all I could do to leave him there.  That part of the journey was sad.

In winter, the only vehicle entrance to the park is from Livingston, MT (Hwy 90), to Gardiner, MT (Hwy 89), the northern- most gate.  If you are going to visit the park via snow coach, you can hook up at West Yellowstone, MT, (west entrance) or Flagg Ranch, (south entrance), but dogs aren't allowed on the coaches.  Those methods of traveling will take you to the geyser areas that aren't visible in Lamar Valley. I can only imagine the white on white spewing “faithfully�?despite the bitter cold.

While dogs aren't allowed on trails in Yellowstone, and only on grass/snow 25' from paved areas, most lodgings in and around the area are “friendly,�?and the rangers at the entrance gates have dog bones.  Make that make sense to me! There was even a "resident" dog at the ski shop in Mammoth.  Lots of folks cross-country ski and snowshoe, but it's only for the brave who can withstand the "brrrr" temps.  You can take the dogs on trails in Silver Gate and Cooke City, however.  Just driving around, and stopping for photo shoots requires long johns, warm socks, fleece layers and very warm boots.  And be prepared for snow most of the time.  You must have snow tires, the sign says!  But the roads are well maintained and rangers drive the road to lend a hand if necessary.

It's truly a winter wonderland, the trees bending their boughs laden with powder puffs of snow, the mountain tops white in contrast with a blue sky on a sunny day, and the valley dressed in a white blanket, with only specks of foliage piercing through, and a glimpse of not-quite-frozen water in the streams.  The wildlife appear as dark images against the snow and wind sculpted landscape, and are easy to spot, compared with their camouflage of color during the rest of the year.  Even though you must “walk the dog�?on the paved, but snow-covered roads, it’s a time for more bonding with your best friend, and use some of that time to teach her the animal names!