| I am tempted to say that Helmcken is the greatest waterfall in the west. It is not the highest (Ribbon Falls is), nor does it have the greatest volume of water (that would be Shoshone, when it is not diverted). But it has a combination of height, volume, and dramatic setting that, combined, are overwhelming. The Murtle River rises in the Cariboo Mountains in the interior wet belt of British Columbia. As it approaches the canyon of the Clearwater River it drops over three abrupt steps. The first is Dawson Falls, a broad Niagara-like falls about 60 feet high. Then it swirls through an interesting series of giant potholes, known ingloriously as the Mushbowl, just where the main road into Wells Gray Park Provincial Park crosses. The eponymous Mr. Arthur Wellesley "Wells" Gray, BC's minister of lands at the time, almost fell in here, back in 1940 (he had been celebrating creation of the park). Below the Mushbowl the Murtle River flows swiftly but quietly for half a mile then abruptly shoots over a 463 foot cliff. There is a huge dark grotto behind the falls, eroded by spray and winter ice. Spray swirls around in the grotto and canyon and rises into the sky above. The noise of the falls is tremendous and can be felt through the soles of your feet as you approach the viewpoint. This is one of the province's major attractions and it is almost impossible to enjoy it alone. Tour buses pull in continuously and tourists line the canyon rim. There are several wooden viewpoints built out over the cliff edge, affording great views, but also plenty of company. It is, however, possible to follow a poorly-marked trail down along the other side of the river and get away from the madding crowds. This also gives a closer view, apparently the one favoured in earlier days. Given the present day crowds it is hard to believe that the falls was first seen by white men in 1913. Loretta What A Wonderful Province WE Live In British Columbia Robert | 
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