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Wise Wortcunning : Herbal and Floral Gardening
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Reply
 Message 1 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_Heather  (Original Message)Sent: 12/24/2008 11:50 AM
Here is where you will find articles about Herbal and Floral Gardening.


First  Previous  20-34 of 34  Next  Last 
Reply
 Message 20 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:35 PM

The Herbal Garden

Getting Started

At Herbs and Natural Remedies we are committed to organic methods of gardening.  This is the healthful way to make your garden grow.  It's more simple than you might think.  Stick a seed in the dirt, let it have plenty of sun, give it water, compost and pull the weeds.  The seed will know what it's supposed to do!

Okay, so maybe it's not quite that easy.  But close!  Probably the most important thing to be concerned with is your soil.  That's the first thing to deal with.  Your soil needs to be nutrient rich, weed-free and able to drain well.  All of these can be achieved even if your soil is not that way right now.  Here's how:

  • Pull or cut weeds.  Remove deep-rooted weeds with a knife or spade and be sure to get as much of the root as possible.
  • If your soil drains poorly, dig out about 12 inches and fill in with 6" of sandy loam, then with organic topsoil.  On top of the beds, place about 4" of compost and top soil mix.  This may look to "tall" but remember that soil settles.
  • If your soil is rich and drains well, you might consider using a bit of compost mixed in your soil for extra insurance.

Organic compost that you make yourself is the best however, you can buy it.  To make your own, pile up your grass clippings and leaves and let it sit for a few months.  You can also add coffee grounds, kitchen scraps, sawdust and other organic waste (manure, etc).  Turning the mixture with a shovel every so often helps to quicken the process.

The next step would be to pick seeds and plants that are suited to your growing region.  To find out which region you live in, check with this website: Garden - Hardiness Zones

When choosing your plants at the store, be sure to get healthy ones.  Examine the plants carefully.  Avoid plants that are wilted or yellowing.  Look for insects.  Also, look at the plants surrounding the ones you want -- If they are unhealthy, yours probably is to, just not showing the signs yet.  The soil can also tell you something as well.  If it smells bad, there's probably something wrong.

There are three classifications of herbs: annuals, biennials and perennials. Annuals are plants that die every year.  You'll have to replant them every year. They include plants like borage, flax, german chamomile, basil, sweet marjoram, anise, and dill. Biennials are plants that only grow for two seasons.  These include plants like the parsley. Then there are perennials which are plants that once planted they will come back every year.  Some examples of perennials are yarrow, chervil, arnica, wormwood, roman chamomile, fennel, chives, mints, oregano, and some of the lavenders.

Consider designing your garden layout on paper first.  It's a lot easier and cheaper to make mistakes on paper than in your garden.  Measure your garden site and then draw it to scale on paper.  Mark where trees, buildings, etc., are located.  If you are designing a large garden, make sure to leave room for pathways and keep beds narrow enough to work in.  Choices for plants can be based on color, height, conditions and/or type. Plant in order of descending height.  The tallest in back, the lowest herbs in front.  Or, in an island bed, tallest in the center. 

There are many books published on growing herbs that will prove useful to you. It's a small investment that can bring you rich results. My favorite book is Rodale's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs.  It offers a wealth of information about herbs including gardening, garden design, companion planting and a lot more.

Once you've made your choices and you're ready to plant, scoop out a hole in your soil and place each plant so that the top of the rootball is even with the soil line and fill in with a mixture of compost and top soil.  Do not plant the stem.  Water each plant well and regularly.

Your first garden is going to be your learning experience.  You will have some successes and some failures.  That's just how it goes.


Reply
 Message 21 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:35 PM
12 Garden Planning Tips

The trees are budding, the grass is growing, and you're thinking of all
those wonderful garden plans you never got around to last year. This
year, get a head start on the season with a few tips to help save time
and avoid disappointment. And don't forget to involve the kids - this is
one of the few times you can give them permission to play in the dirt!

* Even your house plants know it's spring. Repot houseplants that have
grown too large for their containers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage
compact growth, and root the cuttings in moist media to increase your
supply of plants.

* Check your garden chemicals and dispose of last season's leftovers
appropriately. Don't buy more chemicals than you can use in a season -
the smaller the bottle, the better.

* If your only winter crop was couch potatoes, be careful. Don't strain
those underworked winter muscles. Bend at the knees and lift with your
legs, not your back.

* Enjoying the last fires of the season? Save the ashes - your flower
beds love them.

* Divide perennials while your tulips bloom.

* Many of last year's plants will multiply. If you're going to thin them
out, pack up a few as gifts for your neighbors (this is a great job for
kids).

* Mint and chives are wonderful - but they can spread everywhere if
you're not careful. Cut the bottom off a bucket and sink it into the
ground, then plant inside the rim. No more wandering mint!

* You broke your back planting bulbs last fall. Now the squirrels think
they'll make a great snack. Sprinkle a little mustard powder over the
earth as it begins to thaw and they'll keep away.

* Mulches can keep the soil from warming up. So wait to apply organic
mulches after plants are 3 to 4 inches tall and the soil is warm.

* Daffodils and tulips look great together - outside. As cut flowers,
daffodils can actually hurt tulip blooms.

* Starting seedlings in vermiculite to get a jump on the season? Great!
But be sure to transplant them as soon as the second pair of true leaves
form, or they'll starve.

* Herbs are nature's insecticides. Basil planted near tomatoes, for
example, will repel worms and flies. Nothing beats the fragrance of
fresh herbs, and they're decorative as well.

Reply
 Message 22 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:36 PM
A LIST OF NATURE'S INSECTICIDES

Basil: plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Plant with
asparagus to increase vigor. Plant near compost pile to keep insects
away. Plant around doors and windows to keep insects away. DO NOT plant
with Rue.

Bay Leaf: A fresh bay leaf in storage containers of beans or grains will
deter weevils and moths.

Borage: Plant with tomatoes, squash, and strawberries to deter hornworms
and black flea beetles. Also attracts honeybees. Plant as close as
possible to compost pile; adds potassium, calcium, and other minerals
when decomposing.

Caraway: Good for loosening compacted soil.

Catnip: Deters flea beetles.

Chamomile: Improves flavor of cabbage and onions. Also promotes growth
in near-by plants.

Chervil: Improves growth and flavor of radishes.

Dill: Improves growth and health of cabbages. DO NOT plant with carrots
or tomatoes.

Fennel: DO NOT plant in garden for any reason. Plant separately, plant
coriander with it to prevent seeds from setting. Attracts bees.

Garlic: Plant with roses, raspberries, and lettuce to repel aphids and
japanese beetles, also repels blight from potatoes and tomatoes, flea
beetles from potatoes, red spiders from tomatoes, and green loopers from
cabbage. DO NOT plant near peas.

Horseradish: Plant near potatoes to repel potato bugs. Also at the base
of fruit trees to fight fruit rot.

Hyssop: Plant with grapevines to increase grape yield. DO NOT plant with
radishes.

Lovage: Plant with any plant; improves health of all vegetables.

Marjoram: plant with any plant; improves flavor and health.

Mint: Plant with tomatoes and cabbage to improve health. Also repels
cabbageworm; black flea beetles from radishes; hornworm from tomatoes;
ants from most everything.

Parsley: Plant with roses to repel rose beetles; mix with carrot seeds
to repel carrot flies; attracts bees second year if allowed to flower.

Rosemary: Plant with cabbage, beans, and carrots to improve overall health.

Sage: Repels cabbageworm, and white cabbage butterfly. Also repels
carrot flies. DO NOT plant near cucumbers.

Southernwood: Plant near cabbage to repel cabbagemoths; also dried
leaves repel ants.

Savory: Plant with beans and onions to improve flavor; repels cabbage
moths, hornworms, and black flea beetles.

Tansy: Plant with blackberries, grapes, raspberries, and roses; repels
cane borers. Also repels flying insects, japanese beetles, striped
cucumber beetles, squash bugs, cabbageworms, cabbage butterfly, and ants.

Thyme: Deters cabbage butterfly and cabbageworms.

Valerian: Plant anywhere in the garden to attract earthworms.

Yarrow: Plant with any other herb to increase the oils in that herb.
Also good with any vegetable to improve health and flavor.

Reply
 Message 23 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:40 PM
Cold and Flu Garden - Includes Remedy Formulas
Adapted from Herbal Remedy Gardens, by Dorie Byers

When cooler winter arrives colds and flus often arrive, too. Raise one of these gardens for an herbal harvest that can be used to treat your cold or flu.


Simple Solution:
printer friendly version

  One Group
PLOT GARDEN #1
A smaller garden for these plants could be tiered or terraced, bordered on two sides by yarrow and echinacea. Plant prostrate rosemary on the bottom row so that it will spill over the edge. Use flat stones stacked on top of each other or cedar logs to support the soil in each tier. Do not use treated lumber, because the chemicals used in treating the wood can leach into the soil and subsequently be absorbed into the herbs.

For some added character, try placing an old wooden ladder or wagon wheel on your prepared ground. Plant different herbs between the spokes or rungs.

Plants for Plot Garden #1
* 1 peppermint
* 1 catnip
* 1 cayenne pepper
* 5 garlic cloves
* 2 thyme
* 1 prostrate rosemary
* 2 yarrow
* 3 echinacea

PLOT GARDEN #2
This plan can take up quite a large space. Plant a patchwork quilt of herbs of differing heights, colors, and textures. Remember that the peppermint can become invasive with very little encouragement. To slow it, plant it in a large tub or container with holes in the bottom for drainage and sink it into the ground. Butterflies will be drawn to the echinacea and yarrow.

Plants for Plot Garden #2

* 4 thyme
* 9 garlic cloves
* 3 cayenne pepper
* 1 yarrow
* 2 echinacea
* 1 peppermint
* 2 rosemary

COLD AND FLU RECIPES
Most people have trouble avoiding a cold or flu, especially in the winter. These recipes will provide you with herbal comfort when you're ill.

* HERBAL BROTH
Flavorful, warming, and packed with vitamins, this broth can be sipped easily from a mug.

6 minced garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups water or vegetable broth
1 teaspoon fine-chopped fresh cayenne pepper, or 1/2 teaspoon dried powdered cayenne
1 teaspoon fine-chopped fresh or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/2 teaspoon fresh or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
Pinch to 1/4 teaspoon salt, to taste, if the vegetable broth is unsalted

Add the garlic to the olive oil and saute over high heat briefly, until the garlic starts to change color. Add the broth or water, turn the heat down to medium-low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add all of the herbs and salt to taste. Simmer for 5 more minutes, then serve. Sip slowly.

* HERBAL INHALER
The aromas from this herbal infusion will aid in clearing your stuffy nose.

2 quarts water
1/4 cup fresh or 2 tablespoons dried yarrow
1/4 cup fresh or 2 tablespoons dried peppermint
1 tablespoon fresh or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary
1 tablespoon fresh or 2 teaspoons dried thyme

Place the water in a saucepan on the stove. Add all of the herbs. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 30 to 45 minutes. This allows the herbal essences to drift through the house. Do not allow the pan's contents to boil dry.

To simmer these herbs without having to keep as close an eye on them, place the herbs and hot water in a slow cooker. Leave it uncovered and set on high. This can be left unsupervised for an hour or two.

THYME-INFUSED HONEY
This is a most pleasant way to ingest thyme when you're suffering from a cold and congestion

1 cup honey
1/2 cup fresh or 1/4 cup dried thyme
Combine the two ingredients and heat gently over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, making sure the honey does not boil or scorch. Remove from the heat and allow the honey to cool. Strain out the herbs, then bottle the honey and label it. To relieve colds, coughs, and sore throats, take 1 teaspoon of honey three times a day. You can also add a teaspoon to a cup of regular hot tea and sip slowly.



Reply
 Message 24 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:41 PM

Woman’s Care Garden - Plus Herbal Remedy Recipes

These plants are beautiful when grouped together, and will provide women with some of the remedies they need.

The woman’s care garden features potted herbs in willow or twig baskets of the appropriate size, placed in front of ground-planted fennel. One container holds the lemon balm and chamomile plants, the other contains the red clover. You can place Spanish moss on the surface and edges of each container that is nested in its basket to blend the edges and enhance the serenity of this spot.

Container Garden Plants
3 fennel
1 lemon balm
7 German chamomile
1 red clover

Here are recipes with which to use your herbs:

MONTHLY RELIEF TEA
Drinking this infusion will help relieve menstrual cramps, but take no more than 2-3 cups a day
2 teaspoons dried lemon-balm leaves
1 cup boiling water
Steep the leaves in the boiling water, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Strain, then slowly sip the infusion.

DUAL-PURPOSE TEA
Sipping this infusion will relieve nausea and stomach upset, and lessen menstrual cramps.
Do not drink more than 2 cups a day.
2 teaspoons dried German chamomile flowers
1 cup boiling water
Steep the flowers in the boiling water, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain, then slowly sip the infusion.

WOMAN’S RED CLOVER TONIC
This infusion, when sipped, will act as a tonic specially suited for women.
1 teaspoon dried red clover blossoms
1 cup boiling water
Add the blossoms to the boiling water. Cover and steep for 15 minutes. Strain, then sip the infusion.

NURSING MOTHER’S TEA
Drinking a tea made with fennel helps to promote the secretion of breast milk in nursing mothers.
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
1 cup boiling water
Mix the seeds with the boiling water. Cover and steep for 10 minutes. Strain, and sip the infusion.


Reply
 Message 25 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:46 PM
Growing Marigolds

Marigolds (Tagates erecta) are a hardy annual plant ranging in color from pale yellow to deep orange and rust. There are many varieties of this popular garden favorite from miniature to giant. Growing marigolds in and around vegetable gardens can also help prevent insect damage.

Site Preparation:
Marigolds like full sun and a rich, well-drained soil. They are easy to grow, however, and will tolerate average to slightly poor soils. Generous amounts of compost and organic matter will improve the health of your marigolds tremendously. Keep the soil moist, but not wet.

How to Plant:
Sow seed directly in the ground and cover with about 1/4 inch of soil. Water thoroughly. Thin to 8-18 inches apart after they have sprouted. Marigolds can also be started early indoors for transplanting outdoors about six to eight weeks before the last frost date.

Once established and healthy, marigolds will continue growing easily even if left unattended. Water to keep the soil moist but not wet.

Provide nutrients monthly with a flowering fertilizer once they have begun blooming. Pinch off the spent blooms to extend the flowering season. Mulch, if desired, to prevent weeds and improve aesthetics. They will not survive a hard frost or freeze.

Insects and Disease:
Insects do not like marigolds, and they can be used around cabbage and broccoli to help deter and repel cabbage moths. Slugs do enjoy marigolds, however, and can decimate the plants overnight. Watch carefully for them and treat as soon as damage is visible.

Seed Saving Instructions:
Marigolds will produce lots of seed in a similar fashion to a zinnia or calendula. When the blooms dry out, cut them off and hang upside down in bunches. The seeds are contained in the heads and, once dry and crisp, can be lightly hand-crushed and winnowed from the seed chaff.

source unknown

Reply
 Message 26 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:52 PM
PERFUMED PLANTS

Want to add more fragrance to your garden? Then try some of the plants from this list.

Abelia �?Blossoms have a soft vanilla scent.
Acacia �?The flowers and sap have a sweet scent. Violet like scent
Achillea �?Pungent, refreshing to smell, similar to feverfew.
Acorus �?Both leaves and roots have a strong cinnamon like aroma.
Agonis flexuous �?fragrant foliage.
Albizzia �?Flowers smell similar to sweet peas.
Aloysia triphylla �?lemon scented foliage. Alyssum �?Sweet, honeyed and refreshing. Amaryllis �?Very sweet.
Angelica �?Stalks and seeds have a musky aroma.
Anthemis �?Refreshing and pungent. The foliage has a fruity, apple like scent.
Antolina �?strong and pungent.
Artemisia �?Pungent but pleasant.


Backhousia �?scented foliage.
Baeckea �?stron similar to camphor. Banksia sp. �?honey scented blooms.
Bauhinia �?similar to vanilla.
Bilbergia �?soft and sweet.
Borage �?Very fresh and similar to cucumber.
Boronia �?Sweet, fresh and lemony.
Buddleja �?sweet, musky and honeyed.
Buxus �?Quite strong and pungent.


Calendula �?warm and pungent.
Callistemon citrinus �?scented foliage.
Carum �?sweet and spicy.
Cassia �?sweet and vanilla like.
Centaurea �?Rich, musky and very sweet.
Cestrum �?very sweet and fruity.
Cheiranthus �?sweet, spicy and quite similar to stock.
Choisya �?Heavy, sweet and orange like.
Cistus �?sweet and balsamic.
Citrus �?Extremely rich, spicy and sweet.
Clematis �?Soft and sweet. Especially at night. Cleome �?sweet
Clerodendron �?sweet and light.
Coleonema �?scented foliage. Convallaria �?very sweet and slightly spicy. Coriandrum �?very aromatic, spicy and pungent. Cornus �?soft and sweet. Crassula fernwood �?strong and sweet –similar to jasmine.
Crinum �?Rich, soft and honeyed. Crocus �?Sweet and honeyed. Some species are musky.
Crowea �?sweet and lightly honeyed.
Cyclamen �?Pretty and sweet and some have a vanilla scent.
Cymbidium �?a long lasting sweet and delicate scent
Cymbopogon (lemon grass) �?Lemon scent
Cytisus �?fruity and pineapple-like


Daphne �?Sweet, spicy clove or violet like.
Darwinia citriodora �?lemon scented foliage.
Datura �?Soft exotic and lily like.
Delphinium �?musky
Dendrobium Vanilla, musk like or violet like.
Dianthus �?Spicy, cinnamon or clove like.
Dichopogon �?soft smelling flowers.


Erica �?Tangy.
Erisotemon �?slightly pungent.
Escallonia �?foliage is pungent. Flowers have a sweet, faint perfume.
Eucalyptus �?pungent, honey, peppermint or lemon scented.


Foeniculum �?pingent.
Freesia �?Sweet and violet like.


Galanthus (snowdrop) �?sweet and almond like.
Galium �?sweet.
Galtonia very light and sweet.
Gardenia �?heavy, rich and very sweet.
Genista �?sweet like vanilla or pineapple.
Gladiolus �?clove like or violet like.
Gordonia �?sweet and light.
Grevillea �?honeyed.


Hedychium �?sweet and heavy.
Helichrysum �?flowers and foliage quite pleasantly pungent.
Heliotrope - vanilla
Helleborus �?sweet and powerful. Hoya �?sweet and honeyed.
Humulus �?aromatic and yeasty.
Hyacinth �?strong sweet scent
Hypericum �?balsamic and pleasant.


Iberis �?very sweet
Indigofera �?vanilla
Ipomea moonflower �?strong and sweet more so at night.
Iris �?Sweet varieties vary.


Jacaranda �?soft and sweet.
Jasmine �?Heavy and sweet.


Lathyrus (sweetpea) �?sweet and vanilla like
Laurus (bay tree) �?pungent and aromatic.
Lavander �?sharp, clean and fresh. Leptospermum �?lemony foliage. Sweet flowers.
Leucadendron �?soft and sweet
Lilium �?orangey, spicey or honeyed.
Lonicera (honeysuckle) �?sweet and honeyed.
Luculia �?soft �?incense like
Luma apiculata �?honeyed. Lupins �?perennials smell peppery or clove like. Annuals are sweeter with overtones of violet or vanilla.


Magnolia �?rich and fruity Mahonia �?very sweet.
Malus �?sweet and pronounced
Mandevilla �?sweet flowers.
Matthiola (stock) �?clove like and swet
Melaleuca �?leaves are aromatic. Sweet and lemony.
Melia azedrach �?scented flowers.
Mentha �?crisp cool and sweet.
Michelia �?strong sweet smelling flowers.
Mirabilis �?fruity sweet and refreshing
Monarda �?orange like.
Murraya �?jasmine like
Muscari �?Incense or musk like.
Myosotis �?fresh and delicate more so at night.
Myrtle �?Fresh and slightly antiseptic


Narcisssus �?delicate sweet and fresh.
Nasturtium �?spicy foliage.
Nemesia �?strong sweet scent.
Nepeta �?strong smelling foliage.
Nicotiana �?rich and sweet more so in the evening.
Nymphaea (waterlily) �?exotic and heavy


Ocimum (basil) �?pingent slightly clove like.
Oenothera (evening primrose) �?sweet, slightly lemony more so in the evening. Origanum �?sweet and slightly spicy
Osmanthus �?sweet


Paeonia �?rose scented.
Passiflora �?delicate and honeyed. Paulownia �?incense like.
Pelargonium �?range vary greatly
Phebalium �?scented foliage.
Philadelphus �?strong and sweet.
Phlox �?sweet and musky
Pieris �?quite strong
Plumeria �?sweet and rich more so in the evening
Primula �?sweet and mossy.
Prostanthera �?fresh smelling minty foliage.
Prunus �?delicate and honeyed.


Rhododendron �?scented flowers.
Romneya �?exotic and sweet strongest in the evening.
Rose �?varying in intensity
Rosemary �?pungent and tangy.
Rue �?sharp and pungent.


Salvia �?some species have fragrant foliage.
Sambucus (elder) �?musky and sweet.
Santalum (sandalwood) �?exotic, sharp and aromatic.
Sarcocca confusa �?strong and sweet
Schinus (pepper tree) �?spicy foliage
Saponaria �?sweet with a slight hint if cloves.
Satureja (savory) �?pungent and refreshing.
Scilla �?Delicate perfume
Syringa �?sweet and penetrating.


Tanacteum �?pleasantly pungent.
Thyme �?strong and fresh.
Trachelospermum �?sweet smelling flowers.
Tuberose �?sweet.
Tulip �?softly sweet.


Verbena �?soft and very sweet.
Viburnum �?sweet and honeyed
Viola �?Sweet
Virgillia �?softly sweet.



Wisteria �?very delicate

.....courtesy of 'Montburg Gardens'

Reply
 Message 27 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:58 PM
 

THE MAGIC OF THE PANSY

...by Scott Appell


"Yes, in the poor man's garden grow
Far more than herbs and flowers -
Kind thoughts, contentment, peace of mind,
And joy for weary hours."
...Mary Botham Howitt (1799-1888)

We all carry memories of pansies with us from our earliest childhood recollections of gardens and gardening. The beaming faes of these flowers create indelible images, though of course, they are not the only plant that lodges in our young minds; we remember our first encounter with gigantic sunflowers too, our first whiff of pungent tomato foliage, and our earliest taste of freshly picked raspberried. But the pansy alone stands out as the only flower to smile back at you, and when you are young (and child-sized) the flowers faces seem as big as your own.
Pansies are available in a disarming array of color combinations. When this attribute is combined with their light and sweet scent, their ease of culture, their passionate and romantic magical and medicinal history, and their inclination to bloom throughout mild winters, it is easy to see why pansies have become one of the most widely cherished herbaceous garden flowers in America and Europe.

ASPECTS OF PANSIES

One of the most interesting aspects of the modern garden pansy is that it does not exist in the wild. While most of the familiar garden objets - trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, and herbs - were derived from the careful selection and propagation of wild plants, the garden pansy was intentionally developed by gardeners who hybridized several European wildflowers to create a genetic base. The pansy therefore did not exist until the 1820's, and it never grew in American soil until just prior to the civil War. And, truth be known, the parental history of this flower is complex and steeped in mythology, folklore, religion, and magic.
The modern garden pansy belongs to the plant family 'Violaceae', or the violet family. The flowers typically have five petals - four arranged in pairs - with each pair differig (this configuration is known as zygomorphy to botanists). The genus 'Viola' encompasses about 500 species, including the garden pansy, viola, violetta, and violet. Etymologically, the name Viola comes from Greek myth. Zeus hid his love for Io, a virgin priestess, from his wife Hera by transforming her into a white heifer. He made sweet violets spring from the ground for her to graze upon, and named the flowers, 'ion, or 'vion', depending on pronounciation, which eventualloy became viola.
Botanically, the garden pansy is known as 'Viola x wittrokiana'. Taxonomically, the little "x" in the scientific name tells us that plant is the hybrid offspring of different species parents - either from natural or human induced mutation. Interestingly, at the turn of the century, the flower was alternately known as 'Viola tricolor maxima' (the "Big" Johnny-Jump-up), and 'V. t. bortensis' (the "Garden-worthy" Johnny-jump). The modern garden pansy was bred and selected in victorian England during the 1820's through 1840's by a horticulturist known only as Thompson. Mr. Thompson worked on hybridizing 'Viola tricolor', a native of Europe, Asia, and the Baltic region, with 'V. lutea' subspecies 'sudetica' (the yellow-flowered Hudson mountain pansy), which is indigenous to western and central Europe. Botanists also speculate whether he incorporated a third species into the mix - 'V. altaica' (the Altai Mountain pansy), a native to the Crimea and Altai Mountains. By midcentury, there were over 400 cultivars available of the pansy, divided into two types - fancy pansies and show pansies. Varieties of the latter are further subdivided into three classes according to flower dolor - selfs, white grounds, and yellow grounds. The selfs have black, maroon, primrose, white or yellow flowers.
The common name "pansy" may have originated from two different derivations. The first is from the French word 'pensee', meaning thought or remembrance. The other may be a corruption of "pain's ease," an allusion to the flower's analgesic properties. Indeed, all parts of the Johnny-jump-up variety are medicinally valuable. The salicylic acid it contains is an active disinfectant, fungicide, and tissue solvent that can be applied as a poultice to soften hard skin, corns, and warts. The cucilaginous quality of the foliage also lends itself to expectorant, demulcent (inflammation soothing), laxative, and diuretic recipes, and it may be taken internally to cleanse the system and stimulate the metabolism. The juice pressed from the fresh foliage is also prescribed for rheumatism and skin diseases such as cradle cap (tinea capitus or ringworn of the scalp), impetigo, and scabies. For cradle cap and impetigo, take a daily dose (2-5 drops for children, 15-20 drops for adults) by mouth for a week or two. For scabies, use it in combination with baths taken with green soap and sulphur powder or ointment until symptoms are alleviated.
'Viola tricolor' has additional homeopathic uses as well. An overnight infusion of a quart jar filled with fresh leaves and topped with boiling water (and subsequently strained) is good for cancer, fibrocystic breast disease, or mastitis, and it makes a good gargle or mouthwash for gingivitis, ulceration of the mouth, and pain from mouth and herpes sores. Additionally, this infusion is good for the nervous system, eyestrain, too much sunlight, bronchitis and sinus and ear infections. (Be sure to see a doctor is you suffer any of these symptoms).
Though this plant was once formally included in the united STates pharmacopeia, do double-check with your homeopathic healer or general practitioner before using it, as it is always better to be safe than sorry. Some people react dermatologically when they come in contact with the leaves, and too large doese of the roots (which are edible, and high in minereals) can cause stomach upset, nervousness, high blood pressure, and breathing irregularity.

PANSY LORE

The black markings and the petal arrangement are what has given the Johnny-jump-up the reputation of having a face. This human visage has led to scores of common names for the plant - including monkey faces, Kit-run-about, peeping Tom, and "three faces in the hood." 'Viola tricolor' has also been called the herb trinity, in reference to the three colors always associated with it. It symbolizes love and truth, or passion and suffering. Its shade of purple is common in artistic depictions of Mary Magdalene and the Virgin Mary after the crucifixion. It is always allegorically associated with the Virgin and with the unicorn (the emblem of purity).
'V.tricolor' also was beloved as an ingredient of love philters or potions. in the latin era, this pansy was called 'Flos Jovis' (Jove's flower), an allusion to its purported aphrodisiacal attributes. The ancient Celts used the dried flowers and leaves in decoctions intended to seduce and inflame. Folklore has it that at one time all pansies were pure white, but were made purple when pierced by Cupid's arrow. After reading accounts of the flower i the Renaissance herbals of John Gerarde in 1587, William Shakespeare became well aware (as was all of Tudor and Jacobean England) of the pansy's magic. He referred to the pansy (both literally and alleforically) in several of his plays, including 'King Lear', Troilus and Cressida', 'Taming of the Shrew' and 'As You Like It'. The pansy, called love-in-idleness, is integral to the plot of 'A Midsummer Night's Dream). In this play, Oberon, the Faerie King, inquires of Puck about using the pansy on his estranged, sleeping wife, the Faerie Queen, Titania.
"It fell upon a little western flower,
Before milk-white, now purple with love's wound,
And maidens call it, love-in-idleness.
Fetch me that flower; the herb I showed thee once:
The juice of it, on sleeping eye-lids laid,
Will make a man or woman madly dote
Upon the next live creature that it sees."
in addition to love-in-idleness, the pansy had many common names during the Middle Ages and the Jacobean era: heart's-ease or heartsease, ladies' delight, cuddle-me, Kitty-come, cull-me-to-you, tickle-my-fancy, kiss-her-in-the-pantry, and meet-he-in-the-entry-kiss-her-in-the-buttery (which must be the longest and most intirguing common plant name in English)! The Victorian horticulturist and landscapist Gertrude Jekyll referred to it with the epithet welcome-home-husband-be-he-ever-so-drunk.
English Jacobite ppoet, Robert Herrick (1591-1674), explained the naming of the heartsease. in "Hos Pansies or Heart's-ease Came First":
"Frolic virgins, once there were,
Over loving, living here,
Being here their ends denied,
Ran for Sweethearts mad and died.
Love, in pity of their tears,
And their loss in blooming years,
For their restless here spent hours
Gave them Heart's-ease, turn'd to flowers."
Romantic-period English poet Mary Botham Howitt (1799-1888) also contemplated the heartsease:
"Heart's-ease! one could look at it for half a day
Upon this flower, and shape in fancy out
Full twenty different tales of love and sorrow,
That gave this gentle name."
Another poet of the era, Walter Savage landor (1775-1864), described his fascination with a single pansy flower in "One Pansy".
"One Pansy, one, she bore beneath her breast,
A broad white ribbon held the Pansy tight.
She waved about nor looked upon the rest,
Costly and rare; on this she bent her sight."
And in 1884, the preeminent female Victorian artist Kate Greenaway (1846-1901) published her 'Language of Flowers', a work she wrote and illustrated. This particular work encapsulates the Victorian tradition of employing flowers and plants to express feelings (as opposed to actually speaking ten), both positive and negative, in a subtle manner. That is, people of the era, through the giving and receiving of carefully-crafted tussie-mussies, nose-gays, and "Talking bouquets", expressed notions of love and desire that could not be spoken. Every blossom and piece of greenery would have a specific subliminal connotation or hidden message, such as:
"Pansies in a bouquet convey the message of thoughts."
Today, floral tokens conveying every human emotion can be assembled at home from the garden-picked, or florist-procured flowers. of course, deciphering the messages in the flowers is a forgotten skill now. Below are some common varieties of flowers, along with their traditional unspoken meanings.

THE MEANING OF FLOWERS AND PLANTS

Arborvitae: Unchanging friendship
Cinquefoil: Maternal affection
Cup-and-Saucer Vine: Gossip
Double China Aster: I partake of your sentiments
Helen's flower: Tears
Lavender: Distrust
Lesser celandine: Joys to come
Michaelmas Daisy: Farewell
Oleander: Beware
Pansy: Thoughts
Quamaclit: Busybody
Sage: Domestic Virtue
Thrift: Sympathy
Weeping Willow: Mourning
Yellow Rose: Decrease of love

RECENT HISTORY OF THE PANSY

Garden pansies began to wane in popularity between the two world wars, mostly because they were so labor intensive to propagate. Pansies do not breed true from seed and have to be increased manually by cuttings. During this time many of the older cultivars were lost completely. Still, some heirloom varieties are available today. The bronze and yellow Jackanapes variety (named after Jekyll's pet monkey) dates from about 1890, and the pale lavender and primrose Maggie Mott dates to 1902.
Thankfully, garden pansies have recently grown popular once again. Breeders are developing countless new cultivars, and bountiful varieties of the pansy satisfy every taste. The current trend seems to be leaning away from the flowers with familiar black blotches, and more towards pastel selfs in varieties such as the tangerine jolly joker, the pale-yellow clear sky primrose, and the silver-pink sterling silver. And whereas garden pansies in the past would dwindle and succumb to summer's warmth, new heat-resistant pansy varieties are being offered - including water colors mixed, frosty rose, and velour clear blue.
To grow in areas with mild winters, sow packaged seed (not collected seeds unless the label of the original seed packet claims the variety "Breeds true from seed"), or set out plants in early fall for hibernal blooms. Where summers are hot, sow seed indoors during January or February, and set out young plants in early spring. All pansies prefer a rich loamy soil and plenty of moisture. Picking through the season will keep them in flower.
In addition, we cannot overlook the fact that the flowers and foliage of pansies are delightfully edible - and surprisingly high in vitamin C and A. The lightly fragrant blossoms have a faint lettuce-like taste, and can be used in salads, glazed onto frosted cookies, and affixed to ganache-covered cakes. Also, pansies may be encased within shimmering layers of white wine aspic over cold poached chicken breasts, salmon fillets, or pale wheels of brie and camembert. They may also be frozen in ice to decoratively chill party beverages, and they may be candied.
In 1901, Alice Morse Earle, one of America's first female landscapedesigners, summed up the pansy most eloquently:
"These little (pansies) have infinite variety of expression; some are laughing and roguish, some sharp and shrewd, some surprised, others worried...a few are saucy to a degree, [but] all are animated and vivacious".


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 Message 28 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 12:59 PM
HOW TO HARVEST & STORE OREGANO

If you cook Italian food at home, you probably keep a good supply of oregano on hand. But once you've tasted oregano you've grown yourself, those tiny jars on the supermarket shelves will never look the same again.

Instructions:

Things You'll Need ~

Drying Screens Or Racks
Baskets
Garden Shears
Gardening Gloves
Olive (not Virgin) Oil
Unsalted Butter
Freezer Containers
Glass Storage Jars
Ice Cube Trays
Plastic Storage Bags
Twine


Step One:
Pick individual oregano leaves to use fresh throughout the growing season.

Step Two:
Harvest larger amounts by cutting back the entire oregano plant three times during the season: first when the plant is about 6 inches tall, again just before it starts to flower, and a third time in late summer.

Step Three:
Store fresh oregano in plastic bags in the refrigerator.

Step Four:
Freeze oregano to retain the most flavor and aroma. Freeze entire branches on cookie sheets, then strip the leaves from the stems and put them back into the freezer in plastic containers. Or mix finely chopped oregano leaves with just enough olive oil or butter to bind them together, and freeze the mixture in ice cube trays.

Step Five:
Dry oregano by cutting entire stalks from the plant and hanging them in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot. Store dried oregano leaves in an airtight jar.

Tips :
Pick oregano in the morning after the dew has dried on the leaves but before the sun's heat can dissipate the volatile oils that give the plant its distinctive flavor and aroma.

Though frozen oregano tastes much better than the dried form, it is limp and unattractive. Use it in stews, casseroles and other dishes when taste matters more than appearance.

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 Message 29 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameThe_Autumn_HeatherSent: 12/24/2008 1:02 PM

Herb Gardening the Ancient Way

The traditional wiccan herb garden is in the shape of a five-pointed star set inside a nine foot circle. Choose a sunny area, preferably a private spot. Map out the circle by inserting a broken limb at the center. Tie one end of a four and a half foot string loosely about the limb and the other end to the handle of your athame. Pulling the string taut from the center, trace a nine foot circle on the ground.

The ideal time to begin is in the fall during a waning moon in a barren moon sign. Consecrate the entire area with incense and purified water. Consecrate your garden tools as well, asking for the Gods' blessings. Then begin turning the soil to a depth of 13 inches. Remove any weeds to your compost pile and break up any large clods of earth. Cover the area with several inches of compost or natural fertilizer and leaves. This can be left to winter over. Turn over lightly again in the spring.

If you had rather begin in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed up and be sure to add only composted manure to the garden plot. Remove any rough debris and turn up the nine foot circle of earth. The top point of the star should be in the North. Use a compass or go to the garden spot on a clear night and locate the North Star which is always on a direct line out from the top of the Big Dipper's cup. With more string, lay out a five pointed star inside the circle. In the center of the star place a special stone or rock painted with the sun's symbol or a growth rune.

We chose to use the center of our magick garden for a water garden with lotus, water lilies, oxygenating plants and gold fish. At night the reflection of the moon in the water is an added bonus. A tub water-garden will work just fine. The fish take care of the mosquitoes.

This is a great water source for the birds which are only too happy to assist in insect control. Welcome them with a few bird houses and supply an occasional seed feast especially during the colder months.
Before planting seedlings or seeds refer to A Magick Garden Sun & Lunar Calendar for the fertile signs of the waxing moon. Use five perennial herbs particularly of the same growth height. Beginning toward the east, place one to three plants of the same herb in each point of the star. You can get a head start by starting your own plants from seed inside six to eight weeks before the last frost. Be sure to harden the plants before planting in the garden. You do this by setting the seedlings out in a sheltered area for a few hours a day until it is time to plant them in the ground.

Garden Chant

"With limb and string I draw a circle
On consecrated ground.
And a pentagram inscribe therein
This garden round.

I plant the seeds of charm and spell
In a waxing moon.
With love and tender care I toil
to this witch's rune.

Earth to turn,
Air to cool,
I quench the thirst with water pure.
Sun, bring forth my hardy plants
For amulet and cure."
ek


Reply
 Message 30 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknamePredawnLadyKateSent: 12/24/2008 6:56 PM
Instead of simple ivy and ferns, why not try keeping useful herb plants on your window sill?
 
Many garden plants can be transplanted indoors for the winter, so you can enjoy them year-round.
 
I bring in my rosemary and lavender for their scent.
 
Chives and parsley can also live indoors, enabling anyone to have freshly picked green herbs year round.
 
Thyme does well if it’s in a large enough pot with plenty of Sun.
 
Basil and marjoram grow quickly from seed in a pot on a window sill. If you find garlic starting to sprout, you can plant it, root down, and grow more garlic indoors.
 
Most of these plants have magical or healing properties...so get your witchy garden ready and bring those plants from outside to indoors and have a special indoor garden year around!!

Reply
 Message 31 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknamePredawnLadyKateSent: 12/24/2008 7:33 PM

Divide any larger clumps of your perennial herbs such as lovage, catnip, mint, chives, thyme, sage, lemon balm, Winter savory or oregano. Give them away if you don't have room for another plant or leave one in the ground and try one in a pot that you can bring in later.

Remember that some herbs like the mints and horseradish can be invasive, so grow them in very large containers that are buried in the ground if you need them to be contained. I've grown many of the mints without a problem, but one year I planted pineapple mint and didn't pay attention to it. It took over the herb bed! Chocolate mint starts out fairly tame and then wanders every which way, so don't be fooled by mints that start out slowly. You can bury other "dividers" such as pieces of tin or other metal around the mint to contain it too.

Horseradish roots are hard to dig up because they are so long, so use the buried pot method to contain it. By the way, if you want the horseradish a little milder, try digging the root in the spring instead of waiting til later in the summer or fall.

Once the frost has passed there are many herbs you can direct sow. Herbs that are fairly easy to grow from seed are: Dill, chives, calendula, basil, fennel (grow away from dill), salad burnet, sweet cicely, nasturtium, borage, cilantro, and cress are a few. Always pick the rocks and large clumps out of the soil where you direct seeds.

If you are just beginning with herb gardening, remember that Mediterranean herbs such as oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme and lavender prefer a dry, very well drained soil in a hot, sunny location. Other herbs like mint, basil, parsley, lemon balm like the soil fertile and are not as drought tolerant. Group together herbs that like the same type of environment when planning out your garden.

MORE: Tips on including herbs within your flower beds! http://www.oldfashionedliving.com/herbgarden3.html 


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 Message 32 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknamePredawnLadyKateSent: 12/24/2008 7:38 PM
Moving Herbs Indoors
Source:  OldFashionedLiving.com
 
There is a process for moving your herbs indoors if you want them to grow well. First, gradually move your herbs indoors for a few hours at a time. A sheltered, shady deck or porch will work too at first. I don't have a lot of window space so I only move a few each season. I have a scented geranium that I've brought in two years in a row now. You are "acclimatizing" the herbs to their new location by doing it this way. After they are on the porch for a few days I then start moving them indoors gradually.

Herbs grown indoors will need the brightest window you can put them in front of or you can use fluorescent lights. Remember, they love full sun outside, so they need bright light indoors. When you place herbs on a sunny window ledge or shelf be sure to turn them a few times a week, so they don't "lean" towards the sun. If they become leggy then trim them evenly all around. (And of course use the cuttings in your cooking.) Water your indoor herbs only when the soil is dry; using enough water so that a little bit drains out the bottom of the pot. BUT don't over water, this will rot the roots. This is especially important with rosemary. ONLY water when the soil has dried-the leaves will turn brown if it's kept too moist.

When you are potting up herbs for indoors try adding some gravel to the bottom of the pot to help with drainage, and a handful of sand to the potting soil too. It's also beneficial if you can add a teaspoonful of lime to the soil mix (per 5 inch pot) to sweeten it BUT if you don't have any on hand don't buy a large bag just for this. Ask around, maybe someone you know will have some they are using in a garden or lawn. Also, read your bag of potting soil-some do include lime.

It's important that your herbs aren't pot bound, but at the same time you don't want the pot too large. You want the roots "comfortable" but not smashed up against the pot trying to get out.

Your herbs should be brought indoors before frost, with the exception of chives, tarragon and mint. Allow them to remain outdoors for a light frost, then bring them indoors. Once the herbs are indoors, you'll have to watch for pests like aphids,
spider mites, and whiteflies. Remember, you don't want to use any chemicals on your herbs. Try natural sprays if it becomes necessary. Also, try to keep the plants away from cold drafts or direct heat from a vent. In other words, you want to keep the temperature as even as possible.

Winter can be a dreary time for gardeners, especially in cold climates, but the smell and taste of fresh herbs is certainly a boost on cold, snowy days!
~~used with permission~~

Reply
 Message 33 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknamePredawnLadyKateSent: 12/24/2008 7:38 PM
Moving Herbs Indoors
Source:  OldFashionedLiving.com
 
There is a process for moving your herbs indoors if you want them to grow well. First, gradually move your herbs indoors for a few hours at a time. A sheltered, shady deck or porch will work too at first. I don't have a lot of window space so I only move a few each season. I have a scented geranium that I've brought in two years in a row now. You are "acclimatizing" the herbs to their new location by doing it this way. After they are on the porch for a few days I then start moving them indoors gradually.

Herbs grown indoors will need the brightest window you can put them in front of or you can use fluorescent lights. Remember, they love full sun outside, so they need bright light indoors. When you place herbs on a sunny window ledge or shelf be sure to turn them a few times a week, so they don't "lean" towards the sun. If they become leggy then trim them evenly all around. (And of course use the cuttings in your cooking.) Water your indoor herbs only when the soil is dry; using enough water so that a little bit drains out the bottom of the pot. BUT don't over water, this will rot the roots. This is especially important with rosemary. ONLY water when the soil has dried-the leaves will turn brown if it's kept too moist.

When you are potting up herbs for indoors try adding some gravel to the bottom of the pot to help with drainage, and a handful of sand to the potting soil too. It's also beneficial if you can add a teaspoonful of lime to the soil mix (per 5 inch pot) to sweeten it BUT if you don't have any on hand don't buy a large bag just for this. Ask around, maybe someone you know will have some they are using in a garden or lawn. Also, read your bag of potting soil-some do include lime.

It's important that your herbs aren't pot bound, but at the same time you don't want the pot too large. You want the roots "comfortable" but not smashed up against the pot trying to get out.

Your herbs should be brought indoors before frost, with the exception of chives, tarragon and mint. Allow them to remain outdoors for a light frost, then bring them indoors. Once the herbs are indoors, you'll have to watch for pests like aphids,
spider mites, and whiteflies. Remember, you don't want to use any chemicals on your herbs. Try natural sprays if it becomes necessary. Also, try to keep the plants away from cold drafts or direct heat from a vent. In other words, you want to keep the temperature as even as possible.

Winter can be a dreary time for gardeners, especially in cold climates, but the smell and taste of fresh herbs is certainly a boost on cold, snowy days!
~~used with permission~~

Reply
 Message 34 of 34 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknamePredawnLadyKateSent: 12/24/2008 7:39 PM
SPRING HERB TIPS

Divide any larger clumps of your perennial herbs such as lovage, catnip, mint, chives, thyme, sage, lemon balm, winter savory or oregano. Give them away if you don't
have room for another plant or leave one in the ground and try one in a pot that you can bring in later.

Remember that some herbs like the mints and horseradish can be invasive, so grow them in very large containers that are buried in the ground if you need them to be contained.  I've grown many of the mints without a problem, but one year I planted pineapple mint and didn't pay attention to it. It took over the herb bed! Chocolate mint starts out fairly tame and then wanders every which way, so don't be fooled by mints that start out slowly. You can bury other "dividers" such as pieces of tin or other metal around the mint to contain it too.

Horseradish roots are hard to dig up because they are so long, so use the buried pot method to contain it. By the way,if you want the horseradish a little milder, try digging the rootin the spring instead of waiting til later in the summer or fall.

Once the frost has passed there are many herbs you can direct sow.  Herbs that are fairly easy to grow from seed are: dill, chives, calendula, basil, fennel (grow away from dill), salad burnet, sweet cicely, nasturtium, borage, cilantro, and cress are a few. Always pick the rocks and large clumps out of the soil where you direct seeds.

If you are just beginning with herb gardening, remember that Mediterranean herbs such as oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme and lavender prefer a dry, very well drained soil in a hot, sunny location. Other herbs like mint, basil, parsley, lemon balm like  the soil fertile and are not as drought tolerant. Group together  herbs that like the same type of environment when planning out your garden

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