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| | From:  Lam2Law (Original Message) | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:12 AM |
Making Your Own Herbal Paper
Materials
You will need several sheets of typing paper, a bowl, hot water, a
fork, two kitchen twoels, a metal screen, a wooden frame, a stapler, a
rolling pin, and two tablespoons of ground herbs of your choice.
Procedure
1. Tear several sheets of paper into pieces the size of a penny or
smaller.
2. Place the pieces in a bowl and cover with hot water.
3. Stir to make sure all of the paper is wet.
4. Let stand overnight.
5. The next day, tear the paper into pieces as small as possible and
then stir with a fork for several minutes. (You now have made pulp.) This
can also be done in a food processor if you don't mind adding the
mechanical energies, but like any magical tool, you are better off doing it
by hand. As you stir, add in the ground herbs. They need to be ground
or finely chopped so that they don't create flaws in the paper.
Experiment with various herbs, keeping in mind thier magical qualities. The
pulp should remain a thick mush in texture. If this is part of a spell
working, chant or focus on your purpose as you do this.
6. Prepare a metal screen (like those used in windows or screen doors)
by stapling screen to a wood picture frame. You can use a small window
screen if you like. The dimensions can vary, but it should be larger
than you want the finished paper.
7. Smooth out an even layer of pulp (approx. 1/8 inch thick) onto the
screen by hand.
8. Let the water drain for a couple of minutes.
9. Flip your screen over so that your paper pops out onto a clean
kitchen towel.
10. Cover the paper with another kitchen towel so that you have a
"sandwich" of paper between the two towels.
11. Use the rolling pin to press out more water and flatten the paper.
12. Carefully peel off the top towel. Turn the wet paper over onto
either a smooth counter top or on a piece of glass (you can use a window
for this) paper side down, and then carefully peel off the remaining
towel.
13. Let the paper dry overnight or longer.
14. If you want to smooth the paper for writing on, spray the dried
paper with a fine mist of water. Place a clean smooth rag over the damp
paper and iron it with a slightly warm iron until the paper is dry.
You can use your paper for gifts, for spell work, for stationery or
just for plain fun! Enjoy!
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| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:13 AM |
HERB PILLOW
2 lb white rice
1 cup herbs of your choice - I prefer lavender but any of
the following or combination of are nice: peppermint, marjoram,
chamomile, sage, rosemary, thyme
1/2 yd flannel fabric
Fold fabric in half lenghwise and stitch seam around 3 sides.
Turn right side out and stitch 2 seams lengthwise down the fabric
about 2 1/2 inches apart making channels to hold your rice
and herb mixture. Your fininshed size will be about 8X28
depending on shrinkage if you preshrunk the fabric.
Next, mix the rice and herbs together and fill the herb pillow .
Sew the end seam together.
To use, heat the pillow in the microwave about 3 minutes
and sit back and enjoy.
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:18 AM |
How to Make Magic Wands
Wands have served as tools since humans could break a branch off a tree point. They are as old as magic itself. As a wand extends from your arm, magically speaking, it extends from your will. It can be used to direct energy and amplify power, or it can help you cast your circle, draw magical symbols, or stir a cauldron.
The traditional wand is a simple branch of oak, willow, or hazelwood cut the length of your arm from the crook of your elbow to the end of your middle
finger. The wand is best cut on Wednesday, the day of Mercury. Although the simple branch is traditional, many Witches possess wands made from an
array of woods and crystals that reflect either personal energy or the intent the wand is being used for.
Personal Energy
There are hundreds of ways to design a wand that reflects personal energy.
Here are a few ideas:
Fashion a wand using your astrological sign. Suppose Cancer is your birth sign. Make your wand from willow, a tree favored by the moon, Cancer's planet. Paint the wand silver or gray, Cancer's colors, or paint the Cancer glyph on your wand with silver paint. Insert Cancer stones, such as pearl or moonstones. Because Cancer is a water sign, you might wrap your wand in watery colors of blue and green or attach charms of fish and crabs.
You could fashion your wand from your Chinese birth year. Suppose you were born in the year of the rabbit. The rabbit is associated with the Chinese
element of wood, so any wood that appeals to you will work. Green is the color of the rabbit, so wrap your wand with green leather strips or ribbon. It is said that you will be especially lucky if you use the color green in combination with red. Wrap a band of rabbit fur around your wand, or hang rabbit fetishes from the ribbons.
Intent
The beauty of making a wand for a specific goal is the spell actually begins the moment you start gathering materials and preparing for it. Simply hold your magical goal firmly in your mind and heart as you go about fashioning a wand, and the wand is sure to have tremendous power by the time you're ready
to use it.
Gather a tree branch from the ground or from a tree itself. If you take a live branch remember to ask permission from the tree and its owner before removing it. Assuming that you have the tree's permission, leave an offering of copper, tobacco, or crystals. Next, take your wand home and sand it starting with a medium-grade sandpaper, such as number 120. Finish with a number 180 sandpaper for fine sanding. If you focus your intention on its magical use, you will empower your wand. When it's sanded, you can hollow out one end with a small knife and glue in a quartz crystal tip. Quartz crystals help focus energy. Some Witches tip their wands with acorns or pine cones.
The final step is to dedicate the wand. Many Witches put a drop of their own blood on the wand. It is said that menstrual blood is very powerful. Consecrate it by passing it through the smoke of burning incense and the flame of a burning candle to empower your wand. Drop a few drops of holy water (or anointing oil) on your wand and sprinkle a few grains of salt on your wand to strengthen and deepen its magic. If you have a name in mind for your wand, name it now. Finally, hold the wand against your solar plexus, the chakra of will, and empower your wand.
Wands are powerful tools. Made with good intention from the work of your own hand, they can work mighty magic. |
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:18 AM |
Magical Stepping Stones
Categories: Crafts
It is important to create walking paths in your garden for a number of
reasons. It's a great way to create a design, other than with plants,
in your garden. It shows you and others where it is safe to walk so
plants won't be stepped on a crushed. Lastly, the soil won't become
pressed down when people walk too close to the plants. If soil DOES get
pressed down, the plants will not grow as well since their roots will
not get enough of the needed nutrients, water, and air.
Here are the easy steps to make stepping stones:
1. Construct 13" square wood frames out of 2x4 pieces of scrap wood.
2. Purchase concrete mix (ask at you local hardware store about the
different types of concrete that will work for this project), mix it
according to directions and pour it into the frames. The frames should
be laid on a flat surface with plastic under the frames.
3. Here's the creative part. Draw designs into the concrete. Think back
when you were a child, or have your child help you. Make hand prints,
flowers, vines, rainbows, write words like "Jamee's garden," "Welcome,"
"I luv gardening," etc. into the stones.
4. Allow the concrete to set for 3 days or overnight (if using a fast-
drying concrete), then remove the frame.
5. Set the stones into the garden.
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:19 AM |
Make Your Own Runes
Some people are particular about their runes and do not loan them out
or let anyone touch them. Runes are traditionally made from wood and
bone. These materials were the easiest to make Rune staves with.
I have a set of runes also made from non-traditional ceramic, glass,
oak, shells, and stone! My favorite set is made of cherry wood. I
scanned my personal cherry set of Runes and use them throughout my
entire site. The set above is oak cut from a 1 1/8" dowel.
The cherry wood set was cut from leftover cherry wood from furniture
building by my husband. They were cut into small rectangular 1" by 3/4"
pieces on which I burned the Rune symbol with an electric wood burning
tool. While burning each Rune, I did a meditation while learning each
one and it turned into a Rune Ritual and a period of self empowerment.
If you want your Runes to be traditional, use wood from trees or bone,
ivory, or deer antlers. Runes can also be made out of sea shells, clay
dried and/or fired, glass, stones collected from sacred places such as
the Mississippi River (like my friend Kris plans on doing), or wood
from any of the sacred trees. I always use discarded branches and deer
naturally molt their antlers every year. Rune sets can also be
purchased from metaphysical stores, festivals and independent vendors.
To give you an idea what kind of wood you would like to use to make
your Runes out of, you can check out the meanings and myths associated
with the different kinds of trees.
Runes should be stored in either handmade or store bought bags with
draw strings. They should be large enough to hold all of the Runes plus
allow a hand to go into the bag to pull a Rune out. The bag used to
store the Runes can be made from natural materials like cotton,
leather,
wool, or silk. You can use manmade materials, too. I have made bags
from blue jean material, velvet, wool, and synthetics. The above bag is
made out of purple velvet.
The easiest way to get started in Rune divining it so ask a "yes" or
"no" question. An upright Rune is "yes" and an reversed Rune is "No."
Mix the Runes up in the Rune Bag and select one with the left hand,
usually referred to as the Pagan hand. One school of thought is that if
you are right-handed, the right hand is active and conscious, while the
left-hand is passive and subconscious. If you are left-handed, then the
left hand represents the active and subconscious, while the right hand
represents the passive and subconscious.
When using the traditional 24 Germanic, Anglo-Saxon or Fresian runes,
there are eight runes that when turned either way always read the same
and cannot be reversed. If you get one of these, place it back in the
bag and draw another. You can repeat the process three times and if you
still don't get a Rune that can be reversed take it as meaning it's not
time to get an answer to that particular question. Do not ask silly
questions or questions concerning death. These are questions of fate
and are not in our realm to know.
http://www.earth-dancing.com/makeyourownrunes.htm |
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:19 AM |
Make Your Own Satyr Horns
You will need a length of elastic cord, some type of moldable dough or
clay, and some paint, and don't forget the glitter!
To make the horns you will need a recipe for dough or some clay. (the
recipe for scented stones in the 10/8/01 edition will work well for
these if you need that recipe, please visit the website) Another dough
can be made simply by tearing the crust off of a slick of bread and
then tearing it into small bits. Add one tablespoon of tacky glue
(Aleene's works well for this). Mix well and then kneed to blend
completely. (this type of clay air dries)
You can also use a salt dough recipe, polymer clay or any other clay,
as long as it will completely dry and not be affected by a little water
(just in case it rains).
Form your horns, they can be short and pointy or longer, you can twist
them to give them an interesting look. Anything you'd like remember,
these are your horns! Use a long wooden skewer or a large needle to
bore a hole thru the bottom of each horn.
When your horns are dry or baked, you can paint them and sprinkly
glitter on them if you like. Take the elastic cord and cut a piece that
fits comfortably around your head. Thread it through the holes at the
bottom of your horns, knot the ends tightly. (you can make this more
secure by adding a drop of glue).
Your horns are ready! Have fun!
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| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:20 AM |
Title: Making Rose Petal Beads
This is a complex process but the result is *truly* worth it. These
are some of the most beautiful and pleasant beads... very nice look
and a sweet, floral scent!
You will need:
2-3 quarts clean rose petals
Large stainless steel pot
Water
Blender or food processor
Jelly bag or cheesecloth
Iron pot or skillet
Rubber gloves
Tray
Newspapers
Paper towels
Rose essential oil
Plastic containers with tight fitting lids
1/2 teaspoon measuring spoon
3/64th inch wide brass wire, cut into 12 inch lengths
Empty small box or Styrofoam tray
Glass jars with lids
Fine sandpaper
Unwaxed dental floss
An assortment of other kinds of beads, if desired
MAKING THE MASH: Place the rose petals in the stainless steel pot
with water to cover, about one quart. Bring the contents to a boil,
then reduce the heat to low and simmer slowly for 2 to 6 hours,
stirring occasionally. You can cook the petals all day or cook them
for a while one day, turn off the heat, and finish up the next day.
The longer you cook the petals, the more the cellulose breaks down
and the easier the job of pureeing the mash.
In the blender or food processor, puree the cooled mash in batches.
Add just enough extra water to each batch to enable the machine to
puree it thoroughly at the highest speed. The finer the mash, the
smoother and more uniform the bead. Drain the mash through the jelly
bag or cheesecloth to remove any excess water.
SLOW COOKING: Place the drained, pureed mash into the iron pot or
skillet. When the mash is cooked in iron, a chemical reaction of the
acid in the petals with the iron turns it black. (Once the mash turns
black, it badly stains what ever it touched, so wear rubber gloves
and old clothes when working with it.) Because the mash will remove
the patina from an iron pot, use an old one. Cook the mash, covered,
over the lowest heat possible, stirring occasionally, for 2 or 3
days, or until it is black and the consistency of soft cream cheese.
You can cook it for a few hours, turn it off, and finish cooking it
later. Keep it covered to prevent a crust from forming. The mash can
also be baked, covered, at 250F for 1 to 2 days.
COOLING, DRAINING: Layer the tray thickly with newspapers and cover
with a layer of paper towels. (The mash will stick to newspaper but
not to paper towels.) Turn the mash out to cool on the prepared tray,
and cover it with another layer of paper towels. Let it drain. Change
the newspaper padding when the mash has soaked through; this can take
a few hours or overnight and may need to be done two or three times.
Add a few drops of rose essence to the mash - 6 or 7 drops to one cup
mash - and knead it in. You can make beads now or store the mash. To
store, pack the mash into plastic containers with tight fitting lids
and refrigerate for as long as a week or freeze for a few months. The
mash can be thawed and refrozen as necessary.
ROLLING: For each bead, measure out a slightly rounded 1/2 teaspoon
of mash: the bead will shrink to about one-third its original size as
it dries. Wearing gloves, knead each piece of mash in the palm of
your hand to make sure it is smooth. With firm, even pressure, roll
each bead between your palms until it is round. If the bead shows any
cracks while you are rolling, dip the beads in a little water or
rubbing alcohol and smooth them out, as the cracks will become bigger
as the beads dry.
DRYING: Carefully slide the beads onto wires to dry. The wire should
pierce the center of each bead. Use brass wire because it does not
rust. Place ten beads on 12-inches of wire, making sure that the
beads do not touch each other. Lay the wires across the empty box or
styrofoam tray so that the beads are suspended and do not touch the
bottom of the container. Keep the beads at room temperature and away
from any drafts. If the beads dry too fast, they will crack; if it is
cold or damp, they may mold. During the first week, turn the beads
daily, sliding them back and forth a little on the wire to keep them
from sticking. Leave the beads on the wire for another week or two,
or until they are completely dry. Remove the beads from the wires and
store them in tightly covered glass jars, which help retain their
perfume until you are ready to string them. After removing a batch of
rose beads, sand the wires with fine sandpaper to smooth them in
preparation for the next batch.
FINISHING: Bead onto double strands of unwaxed dental floss. You can
use small gold beads as spacers, or if you are talented in special
bead crafting, you can make more complicated bead arrangements for
rosaries and the sort.
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:20 AM |
Making Non-Combustible Incense
Gather all ingredients and decide on substitutions if necessary. Finely
ground each ingredient, using mortar and pestle or an electric grinder
(I prefer the mortar/pestle), to as close to a powder consistency as
you can manage. Some gums and resins won't powder easily, but with
experimentation, you'll get the hang of it. As you work, envision your
magickal goal, adding chants, rhymes, etc. Transfer each powdered
ingredient to a glass or ceramic bowl...gums and resins first. Mix the
resins and gums together with your fingers, to mix their energies and
fragrances. Visualize your power, exiting your hands and entering the
incense. Next, mix all the powdered leaves, bark and roots. Continue
your visualization and/or concentrate on your magickal goal. Add any
oils or liquids that are included in the recipe. usually just a few
drops is enough. Add any powdered gemstones last.
Store in a tightly closed jar, after labeling carefully with the name
of the incense, use intended and the date.
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:20 AM |
Making Paper By Hand
Making paper by hand is fun and interesting, and by adding seeds to the
paper pulp, you can create a card or letter that can be planted. Plant
paper is a completely recycled and recyclable product - starting with
junk mail, you can make a birthday card that (once the seeds sprout)
could become a bouquet of flowers or even a bowl of tomato soup!
What You'll Need:
*two cups junk mail, computer paper, or old paper bags, torn into
nickel-sized pieces (avoid glossy, highly illustrated paper) *blender
*small plastic washtub
*three packages very small plant seeds such as forget-me-nots, wild
flowers, chili peppers, or tomatoes
*stapler or hammer and several small nails
*old wooden picture frame (a 5" by 7" frame works well)
*a piece of fine cheesecloth cut an inch larger than the frame on all
sides
*turkey baster
*newspapers
*several old dishcloths and one towel
*piece of thick cardboard, about 8" by 10"
*three bricks
What to Do:
1. Cover your work surface with plastic before starting. Make sure
you've removed all the staples from the junk paper. Put one cup of
paper scraps into blender. Add three cups water and put blender lid on.
Blend for 60 seconds on medium-low speed. (Don't remove the lid while
blender is running!) Pour the pulp into washtub and repeat with rest of
paper.
2. Pour seeds into tub, distributing them evenly.
3. Staple or nail cheesecloth to back of picture frame. Make sure you
stretch cheesecloth mesh tightly and fasten it on all four sides of
frame.
4. Slip frame, mesh side up, into washtub and swish pulp around to get
it on top of frame. Let a layer of pulp settle on the mesh. Then lift
frame straight up and hold it over washtub to let the excess water
drain out.
5. Carefully lay frame, pulp side down, on a dishcloth spread out on a
stack of newspapers. Remove frame. If pulp doesn't separate from frame
right away, try blotting mesh with a dishcloth before lifting frame
off.
6. Fill turkey baster with pulp from washtub and use it to fill in
empty spots in the molded pulp. Put another dishcloth on top of molded
pulp.
7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 until you run out of pulp, laying each new
layer of pulp on top of the previous layer, with a dishcloth in
between.
8. Put a towel on the last sheet of paper, then a piece of cardboard.
Lay bricks on top of cardboard. Let layers rest for 15 minutes.
9. Carefully remove bricks, cardboard, and towel. Then remove each
dishcloth and paper layer and lay them out on separate stacks of
newspaper. Let the sheets dry between 12 and 24 hours. You can dry out
the wet newspapers and save them for recycling afterward. Now that your
plant paper has dried, you can make plantable cards. Be sure to include
the following planting instructions when you send a card to someone
special. Planting Instructions: Plant paper can be planted directly
into the ground - the paper pulp acts as mulch. Or you can sprout the
seeds in the paper before planting. To pre- sprout, dampen the paper
with water and put in a plastic bag. Make sure to keep paper damp at
all times. The seeds should begin to sprout in one to three weeks. When
they do, transplant them to your garden or a pot.
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Reply
| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:21 AM |
Making Your Own Incense
There are basically two forms of incense: combustible and
noncombustible.
I'll tackle the latter first, since it's by far the easiest method and
requires little explanation. Noncombustible incense is achieved by
simply sprinkling a few pinches of dried plant material, or a blend of
materials, on a smoldering charcoal block. That's a charcoal block, not a
charcoal briquette used for the barbecue! Briquettes are of different
composition, and give off toxic amounts of carbon monoxide. Don't use
them to burn incense! Instead, occult supply stores, and many novelty
shops carry a supply of raw charcoal blocks for this purpose. While we're
in a cautious mode, let it be said that you should always burn incense
in some type of censor. It could be a censor purchased just for this
purpose, or a ceramic dish laid with a few inches of sand or salt.
Sometimes the sweet aroma of dried plant material can change dramatically when
burned! You'll need to experiment with blends you may already have in
mind, or to discover new ones. And, by using the noncombustible method,
your mistakes, if any, will be short lived. I would also advise that
you sample mixtures on smoldering charcoal before proceeding to making
them into combustible incense. The plant material to be used should be
finely ground in a food processor, blender, hand held coffee grinder, or
an old fashioned mortar and pestle.
Combustible incense is made in the form of sticks (sometimes called
joss-sticks), bricks, or cones. Whatever the volume and shape, combustible
incense is always made with potassium nitrate, better known as salt
peter. This helps the incense to burn well, and evenly. You can find
potassium nitrate in nearly any drug store, although you may have to ask the
pharmacist for it. You will need thin wooden splints or skewers, such
as thin, straight twigs, or cocktail skewers. Each stick is dipped into
the incense base until covered. They are then allowed to dry standing
on end, perhaps by poking them into a slab of clay, or a pot of dirt or
sand. This process is repeated until a satisfactory amount of layers
have built up on each stick. Block incense is made by rolling out the
final mixture on wax paper to a 1/4 inch thickness - much like cookie
dough. Then cut into 1 inch squares and allow to dry thoroughly. And there
you have it! Not so tough, although you will get good use from a
kitchen
apron while working the mixtures together! Now, on to some recommended
blends, the first of which is an ancient blend indeed.
Notes:
Be sure all herbs, spices, peels, and flowers are completely dry. All
dry ingredients must be ground into a fine powder. Mix all ingredients
in a small glass container with a clean stick or your fingers. Let the
incense stand over night to dry. Store any unused incense in a tightly
capped glass jar, away from light. These incenses need self-igniting
charcoal. Or, in a pinch, you might try to smolder some in a small, heavy
pan on top of your stove.
Incense Cones and Sticks
Combustible incense (in the form of cones, blocks and sticks) is fairly
complex in its composition, but many feel the results are worth the
extra work. To be blunt, this aspect of incense composition isn't easy.
Some of the ingredients are difficult to obtain, the procedure tends to
be messy and frustrating. Persevere and you'll be rewarded with the
satisfaction of lighting incense cones you've made yourself.
Gum tragacanth glue or mucilage is the basic ingredient of all molded
incenses. Gum tragacanth is available at some herb stores; at one time
in the past every drugstore carried it. It is rather expensive, but a
little will last for months.(You can try guar gum rather than tragacanth.
Both work fine, but guar gum is cheaper and often easier to find - per
Mother's Hearth)
To make tragacanth glue, place a teaspoon of the ground herb in a glass
of warm water. Mix thoroughly until all particles are dispersed. To
facilitate this, place in a bowl and whisk or beat with an egg beater.
This will cause foam to rise, but it can be easily skimmed off or allowed
to disperse. The gum tragacanth has enormous absorption qualities; an
ounce will absorb up to one gallon of water in a week. Let the
tragacanth absorb the water until it becomes a thick bitter-smelling paste. The
consistency of the mixture depends on the form of incense desired. For
sticks (the most difficult kind to make) the mixture should be
relatively thin. For blocks and cones a thicker mucilage should be made. This
is where practice comes in handy after a session or two you will
automatically know when the mucilage is at the correct consistency.If you
can't find tragacanth, try using gum arabic in its place. This, too,
absorbs water. I haven't tried using it for incense yet, but all reports say
it
works as well as tragacanth.
When you have made the trag glue, cover with a wet cloth and set aside.
It will continue to thicken as it sits, so if it becomes to thick add a
bit of water and stir thoroughly. Next, make up the incense base. Not
all formulas can be used for combustible incense; in fact, most of them
were designed to be used as noncombustible incenses. Fortunately, by
adding the incense to a base it should work well. Here's one standard
formula for an incense base:
CONE INCENSE BASE
6 parts ground Charcoal (not self-igniting)
1 part ground Benzoin
2 parts ground Sandalwood
1 part ground Orris root (this "fixes" the scent)
6 drops essential oil (use the oil form of one of the ingredients in
the incense)
2 to 4 parts mixed, empowered incense
Mix the first four ingredients until all are well blended. Add the
drops of essential oil and mix again with your hands. The goal is to create
a powdered mixture with a fine texture. If you wish, run the mixture
through a grinder or the mortar again until it is satisfactory. Add two
to four parts of the completed and empowered incense mixture (created
according to the instructions for noncombustible incense above ). Combine
this well with your hands.
Then using a small kitchen scale, weigh the completed incense and add
ten percent potassium nitrate. If you've made ten ounces of incense, add
one ounce potassium nitrate. Mix this until the white powder is
thoroughly blended.Saltpeter should constitute no more than ten percent of the
completed bulk of the incense. If any more is added, it will burn too
fast; less and it might not burn at all.Potassium nitrate isn't
difficult to obtain. I buy mine at drug stores, so check these (it isn't
usually on the shelf; ask for it at the pharmacy). If you have no luck, try
chemical supply stores.Next, add the tragacanth glue. Do this a teaspoon
at a time, mixing with your hands in a large bowl until all ingredients
are wetted. For cone incense you'll need a very stiff, dough-like
texture. If it is too thick it won't properly form into cones and will take
forever to dry. The mixture should mold easily and hold its shape.
On a piece of waxed paper, shape the mixture into basic cone shapes'
exactly like the ones you've probably bought. If this form isn't used,
the incense might not properly burn. When you've made up your cone
incense, let it dry for two to seven days in a warm place. Your incense is
finished. For block incense make a 1/3 inch-thick square of the stiff
dough on waxed paper. Cut with a knife into one-inch cubes as if you were
cutting small brownies. Separately slightly and let dry. Stick incense
can be attempted as well. Add more tragacanth glue to the mixed incense
and base until the mixture is wet but still rather thick. The trick
here is in determining the proper thickness of the incense/tragacanth
mixture and in finding appropriate materials to use. Professional incense
manufacturers use thin bamboo splints, which aren't available. So try
homemade wooden or bamboo splints,
broom straws, very thin twigs, or those long wooden cocktail skewers
that are available at some grocery and oriental food stores. Dip the
sticks into the mixture, let them sit upright and then dip again. Several
dippings are usually necessary, this is a most
difficult process.When the sticks have accumulated a sufficient amount
of the incense, poke them into a slab of clay or some other substance
so that they stand upright. Allow them to dry.One variation on stick
incense making uses a stiffer incense dough. Pat down the dough on waxed
paper until it is very thin. Place the stick on the dough. Roll a thin
coating of dough around the stick. The incense shouldn't be more than
twice the thickness of the stick. Squeeze or press it onto the stick so
that it will stay put, let dry.Personally, I find the inclusion of
charcoal in this recipe to be distasteful and unnecessary. It makes it
imperative that you wash your hands numerous times throughout this process.
Although
traditional, charcoal also lends a peculiar odor to the incense. So
here's another recipe I've used with good results:
CONE INCENSE BASE #2
6 parts powdered Sandalwood (or Cedar, Pine, Juniper)
2 parts powdered Benzoin (or Frankincense, Myrrh, etc.)
l part ground Orris root
6 drops essential oil (use the oil form of one of the incense
ingredients)
3 to 5 parts empowered incense mixture
In this recipe, powdered wood is used in place of the charcoal. Use
sandalwood if it's included in the incense recipe. If not, use cedar, pine
or juniper, depending on the type of incense to be made. Try to match
the wood base of this incense to the incense's recipe. If you can't,
simply use sandalwood.Mix the first three ingredients until combined. Add
the oil and mix again. Then add three to five parts of the completed
incense to this. Again, this should be a powder. Weigh and add ten
percent potassium nitrate. Mix, add the gum tragacanth glue, combine again
and mold in the methods described above.
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| | | From: Lam2Law | Sent: 2/04/2006 4:22 AM |
Candles you can make
Types of Candles You Can MakeLayered Candles
There are two basic varieties of molded candle. They can have distinct
dividing lines between the layers as shown here, or they can have
layers that blend into each other. Layers that blend are more difficult to
do and newcomers to this technique should stay with distinct layers at
first. A variation on either technique is tilting the mold to obtain
diagonal layers. Making layered candles is the same as plain molded
candles with the exception that timing and temperature are critical. As with
all candle making some experimentation is needed to get the best
results. Temperature will vary with your wax formula. Making The Candle -
Distinct Layers
Because of the importance of timing to get the best results, all colors
should be melted and kept at pouring temperature. Pour the first layer
trying to keep the wax off the sides of the mold. Allow it to cool
until firm but still warm. Pour the next layer. Repeat until done. Finish
the same as any molded candle. Do not allow the wax to cool enough to
separate from the mold sides between pourings - it will ruin the finished
candle and make removing it from the mold difficult. Although it may
require some trial and error, a good starting point is 160 degree pouring
temperature. Making The Candle - Blended Layers
This technique is more difficult because it requires a good deal more
trial and error. The basic idea is to get a slight intermingling of
colors. The hard part is getting the colors to blend and not mix
completely. My technique is to cool until firm (but still warm), then pour the
next layer. I usually pour these at 190 degrees which is a good starting
point for your own experiments. The higher melting point allows the
molten layer to melt and intermingle with the solid (previous) layer.
I hope this has been useful to you. Keeping good records of wax
formulas and pouring temperature will help you duplicate good results and
avoid repeating poor results. Next week I'll discuss making Chunk Candles -
another beautiful variation of the standard molded candle, that are
only slightly more difficult to make.
Chunk Candles
Chunk candles offer the candle maker a wide variety of looks from a
single mold. Two tone, multicolor, patterned, random, blended, and relief.
Combining two or more styles can result in an even larger variety. The
one thing all chunk candles have in common is the chunks. As with all
candle making some experimentation is needed to get the desired results.
Temperature will vary with your wax formula and desired effect. Making
The Chunks
The primary component of a chunk candle is the chunks, so you should
prepare enough before hand. Although ready made chunks can be purchased,
I find it best to make my own. For the finished candle to burn
properly, all chunks and the fill wax should be made with the same wax formula.
To make the chunks: mix a batch of wax, add color then pour into a tin,
tray, or shallow pan. Allow the wax to firm, then use a sharp knife to
slice into small cubes. The cubes can be uniform or different sizes,
each will create a different effect in the finished candle. Another
effect can be achieved by allowing it to harden, then breaking the slab into
irregular chunks. Accumulate enough chunks to fill your mold. Making
The Candle
The mold is wicked normally, then filled with chunks. The chunks may be
dumped in randomly or precisely positioned. One, two, or more colors
may be used. You are limited only by your imagination. Finally the fill
wax is added. For most chunk candles undyed wax works best, however if
you want a scented candle you should add the scent to the fill wax. A
good pouring temperature for most chunk candles is 170 degrees F. After
pouring, tap the mold sides for 1 minute to release trapped air bubbles
before placing in a water bath. Variations
Blended Chunks - Using a higher pouring temperature will cause the fill
wax to melt into and blend with the chunks. This may require using
temperatures as high as 240 degrees F.
Relief Chunks - More chunks can be exposed by the removal of fill wax.
Dip the finished candle in boiling water or torch the surface with a
torch. Extreme care should be taken if using a torch. Wax is flammable,
and may also release toxic fumes if overheated. Torching is best done
outdoors with a fire extinguisher close at hand. The advantage of the
torch is that you can selectively remove wax.
Patterned Chunks - Chunks may be placed in alternating color layers, or
progressively lighter or darker shades of the same color for an
interesting effect.
Small particles of dye can be mixed in with the chunks. These will melt
into the fill wax and cause a random pattern.
Balloon Candles
The finished shell can be used as a votive holder, or filled with wax
to create a candle. In both cases it is desirable to have a hard shell.
Use of a higher melting point wax, and more hardener (stearine, vybar,
etc...) than usual is recommended for the shell. The wearing of eye
protection such as goggles is highly recommended, since there is always
the possibility of a balloon popping, which will spatter hot wax. Making
The Shell
Fill a balloon to the desired shell size with cold water. Failure to do
this usually causes the balloon to pop when it hits the hot wax. I use
145 degree F. melting point wax with a lot of stearine. Five teaspoons
per pound is a good starting point for your experimentation. When the
wax is at 165 degrees dip the balloon, then dip immediately into cold
water. Wipe off any water drops and repeat until the desired shell
thickness is reached. The shell may be colored, but scent is best added to
the fill wax. When the shell has fully cooled, pop the balloon, and pour
out the water. The top may now be leveled on a warming tray or baking
tin. If you are planning on using the shell with the open end up, it is
also necessary to make a flat spot on the bottom. Variations
Bottom Up Fill - Place a wick hole in the bottom using a drill, hot
needle, or heated wire. Wick the same as you would a metal mold. Fill with
a lower melting point wax one teaspoon at a time, allowing it to cool
before adding the next spoonful. A nice effect can be obtained by using
colored wax in an undyed shell.
Top Up Fill - Treat the shell as a container and wick with wire core
and a wick tab. Add wax as in variant 1 above.
Votive Shell - A large balloon shell may be used like a hurricane shell
to hold a votive or tea light.
Luminary Shell - Cut out a pattern in the shell to allow light through.
A good example would be an orange shell with a Jack - o - Lantern face
cut out for Halloween.
I hope this has been useful to you. Keeping good records of wax
formulas and pouring temperature will help you duplicate good results and
avoid repeating poor results.
Floating CandlesMolds
Although you may purchase "floating candle" molds, any candle that is
wider than it is tall will float. Armed with this knowledge, some other
types of forms come readily to mind - bowls, pie tins, small gelatin
molds, cupcake tins, tart pans, etc... Looking around the average kitchen
should supply a wealth of potential floating candle molds. Materials
List
Wicking - wire core, select to match diameter of finished candle
Wax - any general purpose paraffin will do
Stearine - to harden wax
Candle Dye - optional, to color wax
Candle Scent - optional
Wick Tabs - any style
Thermometer - Candle or candy style * essential for safety
Double Boiler
Potholders or Pliers - as needed
Step 1
Begin heating wax in the double boiler while preparing your wicks. Your
candle will burn longer if a metal wick tab is used. The wick tab will
hold the wick upright longer than a loose wick.
Step 2
Add stearine to the melting wax. A good starting formula would be three
to four teaspoons per pound of wax. More stearine will harden the wax
and make it burn slower. It is acceptable to use up to 15 percent
stearine. Keep in mind that a harder wax may require a larger wick to burn
properly, and at some point it becomes counterproductive. The best way to
experiment is to use progressively larger doses of stearine until you
achieve a good burning candle.
Step 3
When the wax reaches 180 degrees, shut off the heat. Stir in the dye
(optional). Finally add your scent (optional), and pour immediately.
Step 4
Allow the wax to form a thin film on bottom of mold then push the
prepared wick/tab into the wax. Allow to harden. Remove from the mold when
fully cured. If it doesn't want to release from the mold, place in the
freezer for no more than 5 minutes. If you encounter consistent trouble
removing your candles use a silicone mold release, or wipe a thin film
of peanut oil into the mold before use.
Step 5
If you used kitchen items for your molds, boil them in clean water to
remove the wax residue. Do not pour this water down the drain.
Step 6
Trim the wick to one quarter inch, float it in a bowl of water and
enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Floating candles are probably the safest types of candles you can burn,
when floated in water. Never float them in or around any flammable
substance.
HAND-DIPPED CANDLES
You need to obtain the following supplies:
2-4 pounds of Paraffin Wax (the kind used in canning) or beeswax
(which is usually expensive).
Candle wick (available at most hobby and craft stores)
oils and herbs (for scent and magickal goals)
candle dye (also expensive) or
crayons (for color)
wax paper
a wooden spoon double broiler.
Begin by melting the wax in a double broiler. If you don't have one,
you can use a large pot filled half full of water and a large coffee tin
with the wax in it, sitting inside the pot. Heat the water to boiling
first and cut up your wax so it will melt quickly. Once the water is
boiling, turn the heat down and place the tin of wax inside of it. Keep
the water hot enough to keep the wax melted but not so hot that the
paraffin catches fire (which it has been known to do over high heat).
While the wax to melting, stir with a wooden spoon (never use metal) &
make sure it all is completely melted.
Also, while the wax is melting, mix the herbs (if more than one) in a
small bowl. After the wax is completely melted and been checked, break
the crayons up and put them into the wax. Keep stirring until all of the
crayons have melted and the color is even and smooth, with no streaks.
Keep in mind that the candle will be a shade or so lighter when dry.
The more crayons - the deeper and richer the color, so experiment.
Next, add the herbs to the wax. Empower with your energy and magickal
intention while mixing the wax. Stir with the wooden spoon until it is
thoroughly mixed. Next add 10-20 drops of essential oil (please, no
synthetics when making candles for magickal or ritual use) to the wax until
it smells strongly of the fragrance intended. Now your wax is ready.
Start with a long piece of wick - twice the size of your desired candle
length plus 3 inches (you will be making 2 candles at once). Bend the
wick in the middle and hold it by the bend. Dip the wick into the wax
and then lift back out. Getting started is the hardest because the wick
will float on top of the wax until it has enough wax on it to weigh it
down. Allow it to get completely cold between dippings when you first
start.
After your candle has started to take shape you can speed up the
process a little. I keep a pan of cool water nearby and dip the candles in
the water after each dipping in the wax. While this speeds up the process
a little, candle making is a slow process but very well worth the time
and energy you put into it.
Keep dipping the candles and allowing them to cool & then dip again.
When you have achieved the proper size, hang them to dry until the wax
has set but the candles aren't too hard. Then roll them on the wax paper
to smooth out the shape. Once the candle shape is too your liking, dip
1 or 2 more times to make sure your candle is smooth. Trim off any
excess wax to make a bottom with a sharp knife. Cut the wick and hang your
candles to dry. You are done! SAND CANDLES
Another way to make candles which is easier and quicker is "Hippie
Candles" as they were called in the '60s. You need to first obtain the sand
- either the beach, sandbox or you can make a box and fill it with sand
just for this purpose. Size, of course will depend on how large your
candle is and how many.
First, moisten the sand enough to where you can make holes in it
without the sand falling back down into the hole. Then Dig your hole in the
sand the shape you want it. The easiest to start with are tapers but
pyramids and cauldron aren't much harder. If you want legs on your candle
- take a pencil (unsharpened) and poke hole for the legs in the sand.
When the shape is finished - hold a piece of wick over the approximate
center and gently pour the wax into the hole, making sure the legs (if
any) are filled.
Allow the wax to set, which can take a while. After testing wax to make
sure it is ready, slip fingers into the sand under the candle and
gently lift it out. Brush off any excess sand. If the legs are uneven, you
can even them by sitting the candle in a hot frying pan. You are done!
WATER CANDLE SCULPTURES
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
Bowl or bucket (something to hold water)
Small tops,
small littles bowls,
Any decorative item to be the base of your water candle
Melted wax
PROCEDURE:
1) Fill your choosen container with cold water.
2) Melt wax as usual, make sure you take all the usual precautions
3) Pour melted wax into your choosen "candle base"
4) Holding the very bottom of your candle base, with the melted wax in
it, pull it to the bottom of your container of water. As you do this,
the melted wax will swirl around the water, hardening as it hits, making
unusual, beautiful designs.
The deeper your container of water, the higher your candle sculpture.
Experiment by adding two or more colors of melted wax to the candle
base, or try dropping the base into the water gently instead of pulling it
down with your hands.
Try using different types of things for the base of your candle with
different depths, to hold more, or less melted wax.
Have fun!!
NOTE: Water candles sre not really for burning, but more for looking at
and decorating with.
SNOW CANDLES
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
Snow
Bucket, large bowl, something to hold the snow
Melted wax
Wicking
PROCEDURE:
1) Pack snow really, REALLY, well in your bucket or bowl
2) Form the desired shape you want your candle to be in the snow.
3) Melt wax as usual, make sure you use all precautions
4) Pour melted wax into the design you have made in the snow
NOTE: Shapes and designs do better for these candles because as you
pour the wax and it hardens, as it hits the cold snow, the hot wax will
eat (melt) a bit of the snow before it hardens. You may add wicks to
these and use them. I put the wicks in before pouring, held down with the
little silver wick holders.
HOLDERS
There are unlimited possibilities when it come to candle holders. One
can use goblets, wine glasses, bowls, bottle tops, flower pots, just
about anything that is classified as a container can contain a candle if
the top opening is large enough.
Another idea, the minitures that you can buy at the craft stores, you
know the ones, thier to use with the little doll houses and different
things that you make. Below, I will give instructions to how I made my
circle candles (element candles), That are placed at the appropriate
directions.
I will have pictures up as soon as I get them back!
DIRECTIONAL CIRCLE CANDLES
Candle Holder With Drip Catcher
SUPPLIES NEEDED:
4 commercial candles in containers (ie: Glade Candle Scents, Renuzit
candles) or 4 bowls or anything else you would like to use. This will
actualy be a candle drip catcher. I used an off brand of commercial
candle scents cause I found them on sale, 4 for $4.00 and I later used
thier scented wax to make another large candle for my living room.
4 wooden stars, from the craft store
4 minitures of your choice (they will be your candle holder)
Goop
Paints; red, blue, green, yellow
PROCEDURE:
1) If you are using a commercial candle container: Sit the candles in a
large pot of very hot water. Let sit for about 1/2 an hour, then remove
the wax and put back to make yourself nother candle at a later date.
Wash and dry well
2) paint the stars, and your choice of minitures. Paint One star red,
one blue, one green, one yellow. Do the same with your minitures. Let
dry over night
3) Put a dollop (about a nickle size) of Goop, in the middle of each
star
4) Place your candle drip catcher in the middle of the star on the
Goop.
5) Place a small dollop of Goop on the bottom of each miniture (about a
dime size), and matching each of the colors, (red on red,ect...) place
inside the drip catcher, in the very middle. Let dry oveer night.
NOTE: You now have your directional circle candles to place on the
floor without worry of wax melting and getting on the carpet or wood!
AT HOME MOLDS & CHEAP IDEAS
I use a lot of small candles and as I like to make my gold & silver
ones myself (thier too hard to find and when I do thier too large and more
then I want to spend)I had to come up with suitable molds. I had
checkes out every craft shop in Louisville and even some mail order ones and
could not fine the size I wanted. Below you will find a list of things
I came up with that work well!
1) Go to a hardware store. Ask to look at the PVC pipe. Pick out the
length and width you want and have them cut it to your specifications.
Also have them cut one side length-wise, all the way down, This way it
will "open". Before pouring your candle, be sure to spary the inside of
the PVC pipe with a spray cooking oil so the candle will come loose
easily also you MUST duct-tape around the PVC well and really well on the
bottom. This works well and most places will do it for around $2.00,
that beats the heck out of $12 to $20 for a commercial mold!
2) Those little medicine cup measureing cups again! They work great as
molds as do different sizes of the paper bathroom cups.They peel off
great! For these options though, let your wax cool down, it still has to
be pourable & liquid, but not so hot as to melt the little cups
3) You know those pre-made cookies that come out each holiday that has
a little disign in the center (ie; snowman, x-mass tree, pumpkin, flag)
thier GREAT as candle molds! Thier already oiled inside and everything!
4) Pour cooled but still liqiud wax into ornaments (Yule Tree) of
different shapes and sizes, don't forget your wick, and when harded, TAP the
ornament ans peel the glass away.
5) Try pouring your candles into those glasses that look like mason
jars with a handle on them, make a candle out of em! You can carry them
with the handle!
WORTH MENTIONING
To make drip catchers for other candles, especially small candles in
small holders, like the miniture candle sticks in the picture above, use
those little medicine cups that come with "nite-time" cold medication
to measure the amount, try the 3 oz waxed paper bathroom cups, just cut
a hole a smidgin too small and place over the candle to the base so it
will fit snuggly and catch the drips.
Nutty Candle Holders
You can make these for special autumnal or winter use
on your altar, or as Yule decoration around the home. The best part is,
they are so easy!! (*note: acorns would be nice to use!)
Materials:
nuts in shells,
paper cups (those ‘dixie�?cups),
6" candles (taller candles might be to top heavy, unless you have a
larger paper cup),
glue that dries clear
Directions:
Center your candle in the paper cup and place the nuts (with the shells
on!) into the cup around your candle, adding the glue after each layer
of nuts (be generous with the glue!). Two or three layers of nuts will
be sufficient depending on their size. Let this dry overnight or
longer, and then peel away the paper cup....voila! Nutty Candles!!
(*Note: I suspect you could do this with other natural materials...like
buckeyes, small pine cones, dried pods, stones, etc.)
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