Candles you can make

Types of Candles You Can MakeLayered Candles
There are two basic varieties of molded candle. They can have distinct
dividing lines between the layers as shown here, or they can have
layers that blend into each other. Layers that blend are more difficult to
do and newcomers to this technique should stay with distinct layers at
first. A variation on either technique is tilting the mold to obtain
diagonal layers. Making layered candles is the same as plain molded
candles with the exception that timing and temperature are critical. As with
all candle making some experimentation is needed to get the best
results. Temperature will vary with your wax formula. Making The Candle -
Distinct Layers
Because of the importance of timing to get the best results, all colors
should be melted and kept at pouring temperature. Pour the first layer
trying to keep the wax off the sides of the mold. Allow it to cool
until firm but still warm. Pour the next layer. Repeat until done. Finish
the same as any molded candle. Do not allow the wax to cool enough to
separate from the mold sides between pourings - it will ruin the finished
candle and make removing it from the mold difficult. Although it may
require some trial and error, a good starting point is 160 degree pouring
temperature. Making The Candle - Blended Layers
This technique is more difficult because it requires a good deal more
trial and error. The basic idea is to get a slight intermingling of
colors. The hard part is getting the colors to blend and not mix
completely. My technique is to cool until firm (but still warm), then pour the
next layer. I usually pour these at 190 degrees which is a good starting
point for your own experiments. The higher melting point allows the
molten layer to melt and intermingle with the solid (previous) layer.

I hope this has been useful to you. Keeping good records of wax
formulas and pouring temperature will help you duplicate good results and
avoid repeating poor results. Next week I'll discuss making Chunk Candles -
another beautiful variation of the standard molded candle, that are
only slightly more difficult to make.
Chunk Candles
Chunk candles offer the candle maker a wide variety of looks from a
single mold. Two tone, multicolor, patterned, random, blended, and relief.
Combining two or more styles can result in an even larger variety. The
one thing all chunk candles have in common is the chunks. As with all
candle making some experimentation is needed to get the desired results.
Temperature will vary with your wax formula and desired effect. Making
The Chunks
The primary component of a chunk candle is the chunks, so you should
prepare enough before hand. Although ready made chunks can be purchased,
I find it best to make my own. For the finished candle to burn
properly, all chunks and the fill wax should be made with the same wax formula.
To make the chunks: mix a batch of wax, add color then pour into a tin,
tray, or shallow pan. Allow the wax to firm, then use a sharp knife to
slice into small cubes. The cubes can be uniform or different sizes,
each will create a different effect in the finished candle. Another
effect can be achieved by allowing it to harden, then breaking the slab into
irregular chunks. Accumulate enough chunks to fill your mold. Making
The Candle
The mold is wicked normally, then filled with chunks. The chunks may be
dumped in randomly or precisely positioned. One, two, or more colors
may be used. You are limited only by your imagination. Finally the fill
wax is added. For most chunk candles undyed wax works best, however if
you want a scented candle you should add the scent to the fill wax. A
good pouring temperature for most chunk candles is 170 degrees F. After
pouring, tap the mold sides for 1 minute to release trapped air bubbles
before placing in a water bath. Variations
Blended Chunks - Using a higher pouring temperature will cause the fill
wax to melt into and blend with the chunks. This may require using
temperatures as high as 240 degrees F.
Relief Chunks - More chunks can be exposed by the removal of fill wax.
Dip the finished candle in boiling water or torch the surface with a
torch. Extreme care should be taken if using a torch. Wax is flammable,
and may also release toxic fumes if overheated. Torching is best done
outdoors with a fire extinguisher close at hand. The advantage of the
torch is that you can selectively remove wax.
Patterned Chunks - Chunks may be placed in alternating color layers, or
progressively lighter or darker shades of the same color for an
interesting effect.
Small particles of dye can be mixed in with the chunks. These will melt
into the fill wax and cause a random pattern.
Balloon Candles
The finished shell can be used as a votive holder, or filled with wax
to create a candle. In both cases it is desirable to have a hard shell.
Use of a higher melting point wax, and more hardener (stearine, vybar,
etc...) than usual is recommended for the shell. The wearing of eye
protection such as goggles is highly recommended, since there is always
the possibility of a balloon popping, which will spatter hot wax. Making
The Shell
Fill a balloon to the desired shell size with cold water. Failure to do
this usually causes the balloon to pop when it hits the hot wax. I use
145 degree F. melting point wax with a lot of stearine. Five teaspoons
per pound is a good starting point for your experimentation. When the
wax is at 165 degrees dip the balloon, then dip immediately into cold
water. Wipe off any water drops and repeat until the desired shell
thickness is reached. The shell may be colored, but scent is best added to
the fill wax. When the shell has fully cooled, pop the balloon, and pour
out the water. The top may now be leveled on a warming tray or baking
tin. If you are planning on using the shell with the open end up, it is
also necessary to make a flat spot on the bottom. Variations
Bottom Up Fill - Place a wick hole in the bottom using a drill, hot
needle, or heated wire. Wick the same as you would a metal mold. Fill with
a lower melting point wax one teaspoon at a time, allowing it to cool
before adding the next spoonful. A nice effect can be obtained by using
colored wax in an undyed shell.
Top Up Fill - Treat the shell as a container and wick with wire core
and a wick tab. Add wax as in variant 1 above.
Votive Shell - A large balloon shell may be used like a hurricane shell
to hold a votive or tea light.
Luminary Shell - Cut out a pattern in the shell to allow light through.
A good example would be an orange shell with a Jack - o - Lantern face
cut out for Halloween.
I hope this has been useful to you. Keeping good records of wax
formulas and pouring temperature will help you duplicate good results and
avoid repeating poor results.
Floating CandlesMolds
Although you may purchase "floating candle" molds, any candle that is
wider than it is tall will float. Armed with this knowledge, some other
types of forms come readily to mind - bowls, pie tins, small gelatin
molds, cupcake tins, tart pans, etc... Looking around the average kitchen
should supply a wealth of potential floating candle molds. Materials
List
   Wicking - wire core, select to match diameter of finished candle
   Wax - any general purpose paraffin will do
   Stearine - to harden wax
   Candle Dye - optional, to color wax
   Candle Scent - optional
   Wick Tabs - any style
   Thermometer - Candle or candy style * essential for safety
   Double Boiler
   Potholders or Pliers - as needed

Step 1
Begin heating wax in the double boiler while preparing your wicks. Your
candle will burn longer if a metal wick tab is used. The wick tab will
hold the wick upright longer than a loose wick.

Step 2
Add stearine to the melting wax. A good starting formula would be three
to four teaspoons per pound of wax. More stearine will harden the wax
and make it burn slower. It is acceptable to use up to 15 percent
stearine. Keep in mind that a harder wax may require a larger wick to burn
properly, and at some point it becomes counterproductive. The best way to
experiment is to use progressively larger doses of stearine until you
achieve a good burning candle.

Step 3
When the wax reaches 180 degrees, shut off the heat. Stir in the dye
(optional). Finally add your scent (optional), and pour immediately.

Step 4
Allow the wax to form a thin film on bottom of mold then push the
prepared wick/tab into the wax. Allow to harden. Remove from the mold when
fully cured. If it doesn't want to release from the mold, place in the
freezer for no more than 5 minutes. If you encounter consistent trouble
removing your candles use a silicone mold release, or wipe a thin film
of peanut oil into the mold before use.

Step 5
If you used kitchen items for your molds, boil them in clean water to
remove the wax residue. Do not pour this water down the drain.

Step 6
Trim the wick to one quarter inch, float it in a bowl of water and
enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Floating candles are probably the safest types of candles you can burn,
when floated in water. Never float them in or around any flammable
substance.
HAND-DIPPED CANDLES
You need to obtain the following supplies:

   2-4 pounds of Paraffin Wax (the kind used in canning) or beeswax
(which is usually expensive).
   Candle wick (available at most hobby and craft stores)
   oils and herbs (for scent and magickal goals)
   candle dye (also expensive) or
   crayons (for color)
   wax paper
   a wooden spoon double broiler.

Begin by melting the wax in a double broiler. If you don't have one,
you can use a large pot filled half full of water and a large coffee tin
with the wax in it, sitting inside the pot. Heat the water to boiling
first and cut up your wax so it will melt quickly. Once the water is
boiling, turn the heat down and place the tin of wax inside of it. Keep
the water hot enough to keep the wax melted but not so hot that the
paraffin catches fire (which it has been known to do over high heat).

While the wax to melting, stir with a wooden spoon (never use metal) &
make sure it all is completely melted.

Also, while the wax is melting, mix the herbs (if more than one) in a
small bowl. After the wax is completely melted and been checked, break
the crayons up and put them into the wax. Keep stirring until all of the
crayons have melted and the color is even and smooth, with no streaks.
Keep in mind that the candle will be a shade or so lighter when dry.
The more crayons - the deeper and richer the color, so experiment.

Next, add the herbs to the wax. Empower with your energy and magickal
intention while mixing the wax. Stir with the wooden spoon until it is
thoroughly mixed. Next add 10-20 drops of essential oil (please, no
synthetics when making candles for magickal or ritual use) to the wax until
it smells strongly of the fragrance intended. Now your wax is ready.

Start with a long piece of wick - twice the size of your desired candle
length plus 3 inches (you will be making 2 candles at once). Bend the
wick in the middle and hold it by the bend. Dip the wick into the wax
and then lift back out. Getting started is the hardest because the wick
will float on top of the wax until it has enough wax on it to weigh it
down. Allow it to get completely cold between dippings when you first
start.

After your candle has started to take shape you can speed up the
process a little. I keep a pan of cool water nearby and dip the candles in
the water after each dipping in the wax. While this speeds up the process
a little, candle making is a slow process but very well worth the time
and energy you put into it.

Keep dipping the candles and allowing them to cool & then dip again.
When you have achieved the proper size, hang them to dry until the wax
has set but the candles aren't too hard. Then roll them on the wax paper
to smooth out the shape. Once the candle shape is too your liking, dip
1 or 2 more times to make sure your candle is smooth. Trim off any
excess wax to make a bottom with a sharp knife. Cut the wick and hang your
candles to dry. You are done! SAND CANDLES
Another way to make candles which is easier and quicker is "Hippie
Candles" as they were called in the '60s. You need to first obtain the sand
- either the beach, sandbox or you can make a box and fill it with sand
just for this purpose. Size, of course will depend on how large your
candle is and how many.

First, moisten the sand enough to where you can make holes in it
without the sand falling back down into the hole. Then Dig your hole in the
sand the shape you want it. The easiest to start with are tapers but
pyramids and cauldron aren't much harder. If you want legs on your candle
- take a pencil (unsharpened) and poke hole for the legs in the sand.

When the shape is finished - hold a piece of wick over the approximate
center and gently pour the wax into the hole, making sure the legs (if
any) are filled.

Allow the wax to set, which can take a while. After testing wax to make
sure it is ready, slip fingers into the sand under the candle and
gently lift it out. Brush off any excess sand. If the legs are uneven, you
can even them by sitting the candle in a hot frying pan. You are done!

WATER CANDLE SCULPTURES

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

   Bowl or bucket (something to hold water)
   Small tops,
   small littles bowls,
   Any decorative item to be the base of your water candle
   Melted wax

PROCEDURE:

1) Fill your choosen container with cold water.
2) Melt wax as usual, make sure you take all the usual precautions
3) Pour melted wax into your choosen "candle base"
4) Holding the very bottom of your candle base, with the melted wax in
it, pull it to the bottom of your container of water. As you do this,
the melted wax will swirl around the water, hardening as it hits, making
unusual, beautiful designs.
The deeper your container of water, the higher your candle sculpture.

Experiment by adding two or more colors of melted wax to the candle
base, or try dropping the base into the water gently instead of pulling it
down with your hands.
Try using different types of things for the base of your candle with
different depths, to hold more, or less melted wax.
Have fun!!

NOTE: Water candles sre not really for burning, but more for looking at
and decorating with.

SNOW CANDLES

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

   Snow
   Bucket, large bowl, something to hold the snow
   Melted wax
   Wicking

PROCEDURE:

1) Pack snow really, REALLY, well in your bucket or bowl
2) Form the desired shape you want your candle to be in the snow.
3) Melt wax as usual, make sure you use all precautions
4) Pour melted wax into the design you have made in the snow

NOTE: Shapes and designs do better for these candles because as you
pour the wax and it hardens, as it hits the cold snow, the hot wax will
eat (melt) a bit of the snow before it hardens. You may add wicks to
these and use them. I put the wicks in before pouring, held down with the
little silver wick holders.
HOLDERS
There are unlimited possibilities when it come to candle holders. One
can use goblets, wine glasses, bowls, bottle tops, flower pots, just
about anything that is classified as a container can contain a candle if
the top opening is large enough.

Another idea, the minitures that you can buy at the craft stores, you
know the ones, thier to use with the little doll houses and different
things that you make. Below, I will give instructions to how I made my
circle candles (element candles), That are placed at the appropriate
directions.
I will have pictures up as soon as I get them back!
DIRECTIONAL CIRCLE CANDLES
Candle Holder With Drip Catcher
SUPPLIES NEEDED:

   4 commercial candles in containers (ie: Glade Candle Scents, Renuzit
candles) or 4 bowls or anything else you would like to use. This will
actualy be a candle drip catcher. I used an off brand of commercial
candle scents cause I found them on sale, 4 for $4.00 and I later used
thier scented wax to make another large candle for my living room.
   4 wooden stars, from the craft store
   4 minitures of your choice (they will be your candle holder)
   Goop
   Paints; red, blue, green, yellow

PROCEDURE:

1) If you are using a commercial candle container: Sit the candles in a
large pot of very hot water. Let sit for about 1/2 an hour, then remove
the wax and put back to make yourself nother candle at a later date.
Wash and dry well
2) paint the stars, and your choice of minitures. Paint One star red,
one blue, one green, one yellow. Do the same with your minitures. Let
dry over night
3) Put a dollop (about a nickle size) of Goop, in the middle of each
star
4) Place your candle drip catcher in the middle of the star on the
Goop.
5) Place a small dollop of Goop on the bottom of each miniture (about a
dime size), and matching each of the colors, (red on red,ect...) place
inside the drip catcher, in the very middle. Let dry oveer night.
NOTE: You now have your directional circle candles to place on the
floor without worry of wax melting and getting on the carpet or wood!

AT HOME MOLDS & CHEAP IDEAS
I use a lot of small candles and as I like to make my gold & silver
ones myself (thier too hard to find and when I do thier too large and more
then I want to spend)I had to come up with suitable molds. I had
checkes out every craft shop in Louisville and even some mail order ones and
could not fine the size I wanted. Below you will find a list of things
I came up with that work well!

1) Go to a hardware store. Ask to look at the PVC pipe. Pick out the
length and width you want and have them cut it to your specifications.
Also have them cut one side length-wise, all the way down, This way it
will "open". Before pouring your candle, be sure to spary the inside of
the PVC pipe with a spray cooking oil so the candle will come loose
easily also you MUST duct-tape around the PVC well and really well on the
bottom. This works well and most places will do it for around $2.00,
that beats the heck out of $12 to $20 for a commercial mold!

2) Those little medicine cup measureing cups again! They work great as
molds as do different sizes of the paper bathroom cups.They peel off
great! For these options though, let your wax cool down, it still has to
be pourable & liquid, but not so hot as to melt the little cups

3) You know those pre-made cookies that come out each holiday that has
a little disign in the center (ie; snowman, x-mass tree, pumpkin, flag)
thier GREAT as candle molds! Thier already oiled inside and everything!

4) Pour cooled but still liqiud wax into ornaments (Yule Tree) of
different shapes and sizes, don't forget your wick, and when harded, TAP the
ornament ans peel the glass away.

5) Try pouring your candles into those glasses that look like mason
jars with a handle on them, make a candle out of em! You can carry them
with the handle!

WORTH MENTIONING
To make drip catchers for other candles, especially small candles in
small holders, like the miniture candle sticks in the picture above, use
those little medicine cups that come with "nite-time" cold medication
to measure the amount, try the 3 oz waxed paper bathroom cups, just cut
a hole a smidgin too small and place over the candle to the base so it
will fit snuggly and catch the drips.
Nutty Candle Holders
You can make these for special autumnal or winter use
on your altar, or as Yule decoration around the home. The best part is,
they are so easy!! (*note: acorns would be nice to use!)

Materials:
   nuts in shells,
   paper cups (those ‘dixie�?cups),
   6" candles (taller candles might be to top heavy, unless you have a
larger paper cup),
   glue that dries clear


Directions:

Center your candle in the paper cup and place the nuts (with the shells
on!) into the cup around your candle, adding the glue after each layer
of nuts (be generous with the glue!). Two or three layers of nuts will
be sufficient depending on their size. Let this dry overnight or
longer, and then peel away the paper cup....voila! Nutty Candles!!

(*Note: I suspect you could do this with other natural materials...like

buckeyes, small pine cones, dried pods, stones, etc.)