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44 MAGNUM

WEATHER: SUNNY, HOT & HUMID

FIREARM: T/C      BARREL: 14" BULL      TWIST: 1-20"

CALIBER: 44 MAG.        BULLET: 240 GR. NOSLER HP

POWDER: WW296     CHARGE: 24.1      PRIMER: CCI-350

CASE: FC     OAL: 1.600     CASE LENGTH: 1.275

SIZING: FL           FPS: 1728          FPE: 1575    

BULLET DIA.: .4295      SD: .186     BC: .185    EXP: NOR

SCOPE: BURRIS 7X

RESULTS: 7 SHOT GROUP @ 50 YARDS = .927"

NOTES: VERY CLOSE TO MAX. LOAD.  BE VERY CAREFUL . WOULD NOT SUGGEST USING THIS LOAD IN ANY OTHER GUN ACCEPT A RUGER SUPER REDHAWK.  START LOW AND WORK UP TO THIS LOAD WATCHING YOUR CASES FOR PRESSURE.  ALL CASES ARE MATCHED & WEIGHTED. PRIMER POCKETS & FLASH HOLES REAMED. PRIMER SET BY GAUGE/METER.  ALL POWDER DROPS MEASURED. A HEAVY CRIMP WAS USED.

________________________________________________________________

44MAGNUM

WEATHER: COOL--DRY--CALM

FIREARM:SUPER RUGER REDHAWK         BBL: 7 1/2" STAINLESS STEEL

BULLET: 240gr. SIERRA HOLLOW POINT     DIA. .4295

POWDER: WW 296     CHARGE: 26.2grs  

PRIMER: FEDERAL 250 LARGE PISTOL MAG

CASE: FEDERAL NICKEL  OAL. 1.600  SIZING: FL.

FPS:1750--1800          (by chrony-graph)

SIGHTS: IRON  WITH GOLD BEAD "SLIDE IN" FRONT

RESULTS: 5 SHOT GROUP  @50 YARDS .946

                     " ""      '''     ''       @ 100YDS     1.750

NOTES:THIS LOAD HAS BEEM EXTREMELY SUCCESFULL FOR ME IN BIG GAME HUNTING AND SHOOTING I.H.M.S.A.   (steel bangers)  IT IS HOWEVER QUITE STOUT. SHOOTING THIS LOAD IN ANYTHING WITH LESS STRENTGH THAN A SUPER REDHAWK OR OF THE T/C QUALITY IS NOT RECOMMENED.

ALL CASE'S ARE MATCHED. PRIMER POCKETS ARE REAMED TO REMOVE ANY BURR'S AND THE PRIMER "FLASH " HOLE IS DRILLED OUT TO THE POINT OF SLIGHTLY OVERSIZED. PRIMER SET BY LEE AUTO, HAND PRIMER TO GET THE "FEEL" OF THE SEAT.

ALL POWDER CHARGES WERE DROPPED BY INDIVIDUAL WEIGHING.

________________________________________________________________

MASTER EYE:

This is really for some of our female members who are new to the sport of shooting, and are not aware of some of the finer points in how to shoot faster, and better. Most individuals depend more on one eye than the other. The eye that is most used is usually referred to as the master eye. The master eye often, though not always, has greater visual acuity and therefore provides a sharper, more precise focus on the sights. The first step toward better shooting is to determine which is the master eye. Most often the master eye will be the same as the dominant hand. To find out which eye is the master eye, pick out an object across the room such as a light switch. Make a circle with your thumb and forefinger. With both eyes open and your arm extended, center the object in the circle. Now, alternately close one eye, then the other. The master eye is the one for which the object remains centered. Most likely you will find that the master eye and the dominant(shooting) hand are the same, which is what you want. If, it turns out that this is NOT the case, let me know or email me, and I will explain something you can do to help you and/or correct the situation.

Most novice shooters develop the habit of closing or squinting one eye while aiming. Most top level shooters keep both eyes open while shooting. Research done by a bunch of people(which I won't name here) indicated that closing one eye had several negative effects. Closing one eye results in straining of the eyelid muscles for both eyes. Pressure from the eyelid on the shooting eye causes a decrease in visual acuity. When one eye is closed, the pupil of the other eye dilates involuntarily in order to gather more light. The strain of keeping one eye closed during the many shots fired in long practice sessions is fatiguing, particularly for beginning shooters.This reduction in acuity is on an average of 20% reduction.One solution would be to "BLOCK" the vision of the other eye by simply placing a strip of transparent tape across the lens of your shooting glasses over the NON-MASTER eye.The tape serves to reduce the acuity of that eye just enough to allow the master eye to take over aiming, while retaining the binocular vision and other advantages of having both eyes open. I hope this helps out those of you whom are NOT aware of the difference in your eyes.

Most of the people that I know shoot with one eye closed. I will tell them all of the time that you are putting a strain on the eye and that is not good.  Find the dominant eye and shoot with both eyes open.  Practice shooting this way and you'll find out this is the only wasy you will want to shoot as firearm.  Practice sitting outside and follow a moving object ex. (birds flying).  Keep it in the field of view of your scope.  Learn to pick them up while the are on the move .  For sure you will become a better shooter. No Eye Strain.

There's good information on eyes and shooting above in this section, and I have another bit to add way below for those who wear bi-focals.  First, I want to stress as extremely important what was covered about finding and using one's dominant eye.

In my case, I'm right-handed and left-eyed, but early-on was taught in junior NRA to shoot rifles and shotguns left-handed to accommodate my "affliction."  With practice, I learned to to be ambidextrous with handguns.  The right-hand bolt action on an XP-100 pistol is perfect for shooting left handed -- and I suspect Sam Colt must have been a lefty, as he positioned his SAA's loading gate perfectly for port-side handling.

Standard bolt-action rifles are somewhat inconvienient, but not so much that I'd give up using my dominant eye.  Lots of rifle manufacturers now offer left-hand models of their bolt-actions.

John Browning might have been another lefty, as so many of his designs are ambidextrous -- the '79 and '85 highwalls, '92 and '94 lever-actions, and superposed shotguns are some, my hunting and saddle guns.

I'm pushing 60, and my eyes -- as well as other things -- don't work so well anymore.  As I went to biofocals to read near and see far, I just adjusted the focus ring on my scopes, but my open sights shooting went to Hades in a handbasket.  The best shooters focus on that front sight, and I couldn't -- until my eye-doc put a trifocal on my left spec-lens. 

Wow!  My competition scores went up again, and I could actually hit again with my iron-sighted carbines and rifles.  I know alternate sights are available -- laser-dots, long-eye relief scopes and such -- but the extra window in my glasses focused a yard from my nose cured everything without me having to alter my guns (also, some Cowboy Competition events won't allow such modern do-dads as lasers and scoped sixguns).

I agree about point-and-shoot up-close.  In one steel-shooting event, the pepper-popper targets are at 7 yards and those who tend to aim tend to lose.  The same is often true in a close people-type confrontations.  A big HOWEVER is as the range increases to 17-25 yards and beyond, those who don't focus on their front sights often come in second best -- not a good standing in a fire-fight.  I know opinions differ, and this is just one borne of many years on the range, in combat, and in law enforcement.You can e-mail me at mailto:mtcnx4@mcn.net

HEARING:

As we get older, many of us naturally lose the ability to discriminate high-frequency sound. However, another kind of almost identical hearing loss is preventable - namely, nerve injury due to avoidable noise. An estimated 10 million Americans have such hearing loss. One of its major causes is the use of firearms (in addition to common environmental sources of loud noises, such as airplanes, subway trains, power tools, motorcycles and rock music.

Two main groups vulnerable to nerve deafness are target-shooters and hunters. A single gunshot generates the same deafening effect as 40 continuous hours of a motorcycle roar or rock music. If you're going to shoot, wear hearing protection.

To those members who are interested in learning how to reload, I will be posting information on procedures involved in handloading rifle and handgun ammo. If there are any questions on this subject, feel free to ask them via posts on the message board. We have plenty of experts who are members of this community and I'm sure that any question you might have will be answered.

Basic Reloading Precautions:

1) Modern ammunition uses SMOKELESS powder. Smokeless powder is much more powerful than black powder or PYRODEX. Never substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex and never mix it with either.

2) Follow loading recommendations exactly. Don't substitute components for those listed. Start loading with the minimum powder charge in the loads shown and work up.

3) Understand WHAT you are doing and WHY it must be done in a specific way.

4) Stay alert when reloading. Don't reload when distracted, disturbed, or tired.

5) Set up a loading procedure and follow it. Don't vary your sequence of operations.

6) Setup your reloading bench where your primers and powder WILL NOT be exposed to heat, sparks or flame.

7) DO NOT SMOKE WHILE RELOADING.

8) ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES while reloading.

9) Keep everything out of reach of small children.

10) Keep your bench clean and uncluttered. Label components and reloads for easy identification.

11) DO NOT EAT while handling LEAD.

12) NEVER try to dislodge a loaded cartridge that has become stuck in the chamber by impacting it with a cleaning rod. HAve a competent gunsmith remove the round.

 

SMOKELESS POWDERS:

All smokeless powders obviously have to burn very fast, but handgun and shotgun powders must burn faster than fifle powders. You will readily note the fidderences in physical size and shape of various powders, but you cannot see fifferences in chemical composition that help to control the rate of burning. Burn rate is also affected by the pressure. "HOT PRIMERS", seating the bullet too deep, overcrimping, oversize bullets, use of heavy shot loads and anything that increases friction or confinement of the powder will increase the pressure. This hobby REQUIRES attention to detail, patience, and meticulousness to ensure the satefy and quality of the loads produced.

1. Don't mix powders of different kinds.

2. Store powder in a cool dry place.

3. If you throw or measure powder charges by volume, check-weigh the charges EVERY time you begin loading.

4. Pour out only enough powder for the immediate work.

5. Don't substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex.

6. Don't carry powder in your clothing. Wash your hands thoroughly after handloading.

7. Store powder in the original package. Don't repackage.

8. Keep powder containers tightly closed when not in use.

9. Specific powders are designed for specific uses. Don't use them for other purposes.

10. Empty the powder measure back into the original powder container when through with a reloading session. DO NOT MIX POWDERS.

11. Obtain a copy of SAAMI( Sporting Arms & Ammunition Manufacturers Institute, Inc.)

ADDRESS:    National Reloading Manufacturers Association

                     4905 S.W. Griffith Drive, Suite 101

                      Beaverton, Oregon   97005

 

PRESSES & DIES:

Most single-stage reloading presses are of the O,C, or H type. They usually come complete with a priming arm and one shellholder. When buying, check that the shellholder and priming cup are of the proper size for the cartridge you want to reload. Shellholders for the other calibers can be interchanged. After you become a little more experienced in the handloading process you can upgrade yourself to a multi-stage press which will do up to 5 different processes with one pull of the handle. These are great for reloading handgun cartrigdes and cuts your time at the bench and gives you more time at the range.

The standard rifle die set is composed of a full-length resizing die and a bullet seating die. The resizing die will return the case to its original shape after firing. The seating die will seat the bullet in the case to whatever you setting you desire( I suggest using a reloading manual to obtain this setting). Most dies are provided with an adjustable locking ring. When the dies have been properly adjusted, the locking ring is secured, allowing you to remove and replace the die repeatedly without having to re-adjust the die. You also will have to lube the cases before full-length sizing can be done. For better accuracy, I suggest investing in a neck-sizing die. After the cartridge is full-length sized and fired in your rifle, it is "fired formed" to your rifles chamber. You will only need to neck-size the next time you want to reload.This can be done on an average of 4 to 5 times before it has to be full-length sized again. You can tell this has to be done when the cartridge will not feed. Neck-sizing only re-shapes the neck of the casing and promotes better accuracy.

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