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| | From: yekyua (Original Message) | Sent: 1/19/2008 11:43 PM |
Tarna, DC, Sooner, Native Floridian and anyone else who occasionally tunes into this board, but especially Wheels and Bama who have written so lyrically of the south, buy this month's special edition of Gourmet Magazine on Southern Cooking. It features a beautiful essay by the late Edna Lewis titled "What is Southern" (excerpt below). She, if you are not familiar with her, was called the "Grand Dame of Southern cooking". From magazine brief bio: Granddaughter of freed slaves, the late Edna Lewis left home when she was just 16 years old...to become renowned chef at Manhattan's star-studded Cafe Nicholson. Her books have spread the gospel of genuine southern cuisine and inspired a generation of home cooks. <http://www.epicurious.com/gourmet/features/edna_lewis> Online are recipes for Smothered Steak, Simmered Greens with Cornmeal Dumplings (I don't like greens but I swear, I'm gonna give this a try), Fried Apple Pie, Baked Tomatoes with Crusty Bread, and more. In magazine were many more, a Caramel Cake, Farm Eggs with cream and country ham Nifty picture step by step walk through for feather light biscuits, a tip by Miss Lewis I'd never thought of, illustrating the extraordinary attention to detail in a 'simple' food like biscuits that makes a difference. You can make your your own baking powder - she was able to detect the slightly metallic taste of the store bought, and wouldn't have it in her biscuits. How did southern food come into being? The early cooking of southern food was primarily done by blacks, men and women. In the home, in hotels, in boarding houses, on boats, on trains, and at the White House. Cooking is hard and demanding. It was then and still is now. What began as hard work became creative work. There is something about the south that stimulates creativity in people, be they black or white, writers, artists, cooks, builders or primitives that pass away without knowing they are talented... Not about food but this is so evocative Southern is an early spring morning shrouded in a thick mist. The warmth of a bright sunrise reveals shimmering jewellike dewdrops upon thicket and fence. ... |
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Yek, one of the recipes listed in the article includes country ham and that reminded me of something that happened years ago, regarding country ham. My sister had moved to California back in the very early 80's, to L.A. When she first arrived there, she missed home (Kentucky) very very much. She was unable to come home for Christmas the first year so I sent her a country ham as a present. The UPS man left it on her doorstep and it was stollen. She was so disappointed that the ham, more than likely, had gone to waste, considering anyone, other than a southerner, upon opening the package, would have thought the ham spoiled and rotten, considering it was covered in mold. After a ham has been cured, there are steps to bringing it back to eating condition, but man oh man, there is nothing better than good country ham. |
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| | From: yekyua | Sent: 1/21/2008 2:38 AM |
What a shame your thoughtful gift was pilfered, Karen. Would have been gratifying to see their face after unwrapping package though... Was it the eggs, cream and spinach dish with the ham? I thought that looked delicious too, not too complicated and perfect for a brunch. With biscuits and Mimosas, oh yeah. Never had the pleasure of eating an authentic country ham - thought about splurging and ordering online often. Only regional ham I've tried is Spanish. Spain is one ham loco nation - there are even ham museums! Jamón Iberico is Spain's version of ultra pricy Kobe beef, source of great national pride. It's from free-range acorn fed Iberian pigs, dry cured. More common is Jamón Serrano from unaristocratic pigs, regular feed. In every neighborhood bare hanging from ceiling racks are several whole haunches of the serrano, hooves intact. One is always on counter, impaled on special ham-holder ready for carving into paper-thin slices for snack or in sandwich. Not as thrilling as I thought it ought to be given the price. Maybe an acquired taste. I just googled http://www.vapeanuts.com/virginia-country-hams-bacon.html - $42 13-15 lbs, not bad at all for special occasion. http://www.finchvillefarms.com/products.cfm in your neck of woods - $65 for 13-15 lbs, slices and steaks in lesser quantity for much less. I'm going to order that slab bacon from Smithfield methinks. And how do you resurrect a moldy ham btw? |
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| | From: yekyua | Sent: 1/21/2008 2:54 AM |
Karen, in the same issue is an essay by Nashville native, Ann Patchett -- your post reminded me of this snippet: ...I must first tell you about my relationship with pork. Truly, I came here loving the stuff. When I moved to Tennessee just before my sixth birthday, I would have said there was nothing dearer to me than a bacon and apple-butter sandwich. [That sounds delectable!] It was 1969, a year that cared nothing about what actually might be in meat products, and so, like all other southern children I ate Vienna sausages out of the pan. I ate Little Smokies and Underwood potted meat products and loved Easter above all holidays for the thick slab of ham it landed on my plate. Looking back, I'm not sure I subsisted on anything but pork in those early years. I was such a pale and skinny child, such a wisp, that it might be said that pork was the only thing that kept me tethered to the earth. So Tennesee with its country ham and endless available sources of barbeque, was the perfect place for me to have ended up.... |
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