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| My friends cat had 8 kittens 2 weeks ago. The mother was found dead on the road today and she has these kittens to look after. She has been to the vet to get the milk.....quite expensive it was too. She now is after any advice as to looking after them. She knows she has to feed them every 4 hours but is there anything she can do to help them cope now? Is there any tips on how to continue feeding and weening as it'll be quite expensive buying this milk mix. Any help from someone who had to do this themselves would be great. Any help at all would be. Thank you. jojo | <NOBR> First </NOBR> <NOBR>Previous </NOBR> <NOBR>2-8 of 8 </NOBR> <NOBR>Next </NOBR> <NOBR>Last </NOBR> | Reply
| | | talk to the SPCA. they have to do this all the time. they may help with the cost as well. | | Reply
| | | Thank you. It is very sad when this happens, but when they're so young its so scary. Another 2 weeks and they'd be so much stronger, almost eating etc. | | Reply
| | | Hi Jojo. Thats awful about the mommy cat. We have several articles here about taking care of young kittens. | | Reply
| | | I know when our kittens were small and momma wasnt producing enough milk for them all I went to walmart and was able to buy milk in a powder which is alot cheaper than buying the cans. | | Reply
| | | Walmart does have kitten formulas that are much less expensive than what the vet will have. Does your freind have a kitten bottle, too? Some pet stores might be cheaper than a vet, too. Tiger! | | Reply
| | | I hand raised four kittens that were a week old, and all four survived and thrived. I used condensed (evaporated) milk mixed approximately half and half. You can use a little bit more carnation milk if needed. When they were about 3-4 weeks I added a little bit of soft cat food to it (I blended it in with the condensed wilk/ water mixture) and then at about 5 weeks gave them the option of soft food. If they didn't eat very much of the soft food I followed it with a bottle of the soft food/ milk mixture. They need to be fed ever two hours or so, and at that age they may still need stimulation to go pee and poop. hope this helps ~Isobel~ | | Reply
| | | your friend will have to stimulate their anal area so they can go potty..and you can buy milk replacement formula at almost any pet store and at Wal/Mart and Meijer and Kroger..and she must keep the kits warm..they are not able to regulate their body temperature well | | |
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Orphaned Kittens Raising an orphaned kitten is a noble and rewarding experience. The bonding that will occur in the first few days will likely last for many years. Orphaned kittens are very fragile; raising them requires jumping numerous hurdles. Do not be disappointed if you are not successful.
What problems am I likely to encounter?
Several critical problems must be addressed in caring for orphaned kittens. Among these are chilling, dehydration, and hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). These problems are interrelated and may often exist at the same time. Close observation and prompt attention if any of these problems develop are essential to survival. Of course, proper feeding of the orphaned kitten is extremely important.
Chilling
Chilling in newborn kittens can lead to significant mortality. A kitten will dissipate far more body heat per pound of body weight than an adult cat. The normal newborn kitten depends upon radiant heat from his mother to help maintain his body temperature. In the absence of the mother, various methods of providing heat, such as incubators, heat lamps, or hot water bottles can be used.
Rectal temperatures in a normal newborn kitten range from 95 to 99o F (35 to 37.2oC) for the first week, 97 to 100oF (36.1 to 37.7o C) for the second and third weeks, and reach the normal temperature of an adult (100 to 102o F; 37.7 to 38.9o C) by the fourth week.
When the rectal temperature drops below 94o F (34.4o C), the accompanying metabolic alterations are life-threatening. Immediate action is necessary to provide the warmth the kitten needs to survive. A healthy newborn can usually survive chilling if warmed slowly.
During the first four days of his life, the orphaned kitten should be maintained in an environmental temperature of 85 to 90o F (29.4 to 32.2o C). The temperature may gradually be decreased to 80o F (26.7o C) by the seventh to tenth day and to 72o F (22.2o C) by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As kittens huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth.
Caution: Too rapid warming of a chilled kitten may result in death.
Dehydration
The lack of regular liquid intake or the exposure of the kitten to a low humidity environment can easily result in dehydration. The inefficiency of the digestion and metabolism of a chilled kitten may also lead to dehydration and other changes.
Experienced individuals can detect dehydration by the sense of touch. Two signs of dehydration are the loss of elasticity in the skin and dry and sticky mucous membranes (gums) in the mouth.
An environmental relative humidity of 55 to 65 percent is adequate to prevent drying of the skin in a normal newborn kitten. A relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent is more effective in maintaining kittens if they are small and weak.
Caution: The environmental temperature should not exceed 90o F (32.2o C) when high humidity is provided. A temperature of 95o F (35o C) coupled with relative humidity of 95 percent can lead to respiratory distress.
Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar levels)
Signs of hypoglycemia (abnormal decrease of sugar in the blood) are severe depression, muscle twitching and sometimes convulsions. If a kitten shows signs of hypoglycemia, a solution containing glucose will have to be administered. A few drops of corn syrup on the tongue can be life-saving.
What do I feed my orphaned kitten?
Total nutrition for the newborn orphans must be supplied by a milk replacer until the kittens are about three weeks of age. At this age, the kittens are ready to start nibbling moistened solid food.
Preferred diets:
A commercial kitten milk replacer which can be purchased at pet supplies stores, or for short-term emergencies, you can make up a diet:
l cup of milk
l tablespoon corn oil
l pinch of salt
egg yolks (no whites)
Blend mixture uniformly. Is the temperature of the food important?
Since the newborn may have trouble generating enough heat to maintain his body temperature, the milk replacer should be warmed to 95 to 100o F (35 to 37.8o C) for the best results. Testing the milk replacer's temperature on one's forearm (as for babies) is generally accurate enough. The milk replacer should be about the same temperature as one's skin or slightly warmer. As the kittens grow older, the milk replacer can be fed at room temperature.
How do I feed my kitten?
Spoon feeding is slow and requires great patience. Each spoonful must be slowly "poured" into the kitten's mouth to prevent liquids from entering the lungs. The kitten's head must not be elevated, or the lungs may fill with fluids. Newborn kittens usually do not have a well-developed gag reflex to signal this.
Dropper feeding accomplishes the same result as spoon feeding but is somewhat cleaner and generally speedier.
Baby bottles made for kittens can be used quite successfully in most situations. The size of the hole in the nipple is critical for success. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple, the hole is too large. Use of this nipple may cause drowning of the kitten. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer comes out only after considerable squeezing of the bottle, the hole is too small. Use of this nipple will result in the kitten becoming discouraged and refusing to nurse. The hole is the proper size if the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple with minimal squeezing of the bottle.
Tube feeding is the easiest, cleanest and most efficient method of hand feeding. However, it requires proper equipment and technique to prevent putting milk replacer into the kitten's lungs. If bottle feeding is not successful, your vet will supply the equipment and demonstrate the proper technique. This is not a difficult procedure, so do not hesitate to ask about it if it is needed.
When and how much do I feed?
Commercial milk replacers have directions on their labels for proper amounts to feed. It is necessary for the kitten's weight to be obtained properly in ounces or grams. The amounts on the labels are based on the kitten getting only the milk replacer. The amounts given are also for a 24 hour period. That quantity should be divided by the number of feedings per 24 hours. Four meals, equally spaced during a 24 hour period, are ample for feeding a kitten when adequate nutrients are provided. Six or more feedings may be necessary if the kitten is small or weak. Hand feeding can generally be ended by the third week and certainly by the fourth. By this time the kitten can consume food, free-choice, from a dish (see below).
How do I get the kitten to urinate and defecate?
The kitten's genital area must be stimulated after feeding to cause urination and defecation. The genital area should be massaged with a moist cloth or cotton ball to stimulate action. This cleaning should continue during the first two weeks. If this procedure is not followed, the kitten may become constipated.
When does the kitten start to eat from a bowl?
By three weeks, the kitten can start to eat food from the dish along with the milk replacer. A gruel can be made by thoroughly mixing a kitten food (canned or dry) with the milk replacer to reach the consistency of a thick milk shake. The mixture should not be too thick at first or the kitten will not consume very much. As the consumption of food increases, the amount of milk replacer can be gradually decreased. By four to four and one-half weeks, the orphaned kitten can consume enough moistened solid food to meet his needs. It is better to avoid starting a kitten on a baby food regimen. This creates extra work and can also create a finicky eater. Many such foods will not meet the nutritional needs of a growing kitten.
Should my kitten be treated for worms?
Vets routinely treat kittens for worms at 3 and 6 weeks of age. He will need to see the kitten at the appropriate ages so that hecan be accurately weighed.
When is the first vaccination given?
The first vaccination is normally given to kittens at 6-8 weeks of age. If your kitten did not nurse from his mother during the first 2-3 days after birth, there will be no protective immunity passed to him. If that is the case, the first vaccination should be given at about 2-3 weeks of age.
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Personally though, if I wasn't intending to keep any I'd let the cats protection take them all. After all, if they take them now you'll not get attached and they can let people come to see them and arrange new homes. It'd probably be easier for them to find them somewhere if people could go see them there. Also with so many they'll have helpers and experience.....and money to spend to give them the care they need. It'll just wear you out. You can always go and see them when they take them, or help if you want. |
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hhmmm yeah not sure what we are going to do.. its easy said than done.. its my beautiful cats kittens.. you know what i mean.. came home last night from work and ashleigh had been sick everywhere lol.. |
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hmmm. I'd be worried I might not do the right thing though and I might loose one. I think I'd rather let them go to the cats protection where they've done it before than loose one. Mind you, if you only had a couple it might not be so bad, but 8! Thats a lot of mouths to feed. |
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I hope ash is ok too..........not a bug I hope! |
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we are all not well... im not too bad but im coming down with a cold. |
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i phoned cats protection... they arent sure they can help.. she said noone had had orphaned kittens before and i was probably doing just as well as any one could.. also she didnt think she could find a helper to take on 8 kittens.. but they will pay for the milk and she would try and find someone to take them off me. |
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Which one did you ring? At least you get some money to help with the food. You need to get some pictures taken...............in fact, why don't you write to the paper! They might have a week of not so much to write about, they could put a pic of your 8 orphaned kittens in it! |
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she has found foster homes.. people are taking two each to do it.. noone wanted the whole 8 !!! its not the feeding thats was the problem it was bathing them , i had to change thier bedding each time too so loads of washing.. im taking them tomorrow to ludlow vets where they will be checked before thier new foster mums collect them.. im sad to see them go but i was exhausted... im also proud they are threiving and look well cared for.. |
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I think you're doing the right thing. Two kids, a job and house to look after is hard enough but 8 kittens too! Like you said, its not even just feeding its all the other stuff, you have to make sure they go to the toilet etc too. And feeding so often, you must be shattered. They'll be well cared for and you've done a good job. |
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theyve gone.. im feeling very low now |
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You always do when they go and you don't keep any, I did with all the litters BTM had that I never kept one from. You'll soon just start to enjoy the two you have and be glad. I know if it wasn't for you talking sence to me I'd have kept two of the last lot.......so glad I didn't now! Skint enough as we are! At least you know because they've gone off in smaller groups it'll be easier to find new homes. Plus you know they check out who they go to so they'll go to good homes. |
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got to admit it was good bieng able to go to bed without having to stay up til 12 to feed them.. just wished jon would of let me keeop one.. |
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Well if you decided you wanted another you can always ask them to keep one for you. Or get your tom done but not the she and go through it all again.......hoping that she only has 4 instead of 8 kittens! |
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