Kelden's K9 Behavior: Aggression
DOG ON DOG AGGRESSION

by Kelley Ireland

There are many different types of aggression. The most common form of aggression is called: "dominance" aggression, followed by "territorial" aggression.Other types of aggression are:learned aggression(trained intentionally or unintentionally),small animal aggression, large animal aggression, fearful aggression, dog to dog aggression, and combinations of the above.

Many solutions are offered, but should NOT be attempted unless you can convince your dog that you are not apprehensive, and that any other party involved is not fearful of the dog's reactions.

If you tense up, your dog will know it immediatly and take it as a signal that he too, should get ready for action. If you are trying to convience your dog that another party is "ok", then the other party must act completely normal, otherwise their reactions will communicate that something is wrong, and the dog may respond by displaying aggressive behavior.

It is often easier to start out the corrective training on a neutral territory with a fence between you and the target of your dog's aggression. This will allow you to be more relaxed so as not to alert your dog.

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It is believed that dogs do not care so much where they belong on the hierarchy ladder, just as long as they know where they belong. This straight belief becomes somewhat bent when dealing with very dominant dogs who obviously wish to be alpha, and very insecure dogs who obviously will be submissive to anyone and anything they encounter. But still as a belief, it holds some weight; especially when trying to convince people that they need not feel "sorry"for the "omega"(bottom dog) . Probelms will almost always occur when well-meaning people feel sorry for the omega dog and unknowingly begin treating it as an "alpha", AND CREATING VICIOUS JEALOUSY AND DOG FIGHTS IN THE PROCESS. <o:p></o:p>

The first thing to do when you have two or more dogs is to figure out which one isthe "alpha." The alpha dog usually displays the following:

* ALWAYS wins a tug-of war with other dogs
* RECEIVES the most attention from the other dogs
* RARELY licks the other dogs on the mouth.
* Wins all STARING CONTEST with the other dogs
* May become JEALOUS when the other dogs receive attention from you.
* May STEAL or GUARDtoys,chewies, food, etc.
*Usually has FIRST CHOICE of the best sleeping areas.
* May push his way to be FIRST out/in the door.
* May MOUNT the other dogs(male & female).

In contrast, the "omega" dog usually displays the following:

* ALWAYS gives up first at tug-of-war.
* GIVES the most attention and affection to the other dogs, usually licking their mouths.
* LOOKS AWAY when being stared at by the other dogs, and probably by you too.
* Freely GIVES UPtoys, chewies, food,sleeping area, etc.to the other dogs.
* Rolls on back and displays "BELLY" to other dogs, and probably to you too.
* May pee upon greeting the other dogs, and possibly people too.

BACK TO BASICS; Once you've determined where everyone stands on the hierarchy ladder, it is YOUR responsibility to reassure them constantly and make them feel securein their positions. If an alpha dog does not feel secure in his position as alpha, he will usually exaggerate his position to reassure himself. Exaggerating dominance(i.e., alpha)=aggression. This can be a problem at best, and deadly at worst. Therefore, here are some suggestions on how to reassure your dogs. <o:p></o:p>

The alpha dog gets everything FIRST !
He gets first choice of tpys, chewies, sleeping areas, etc. This can be tricky. Although he gets first choice (because you respect his alpha position), he is not allowed to change his mind and STEAL toys, etc. by staring, growling, pouncing, or attacking. It is your responsibility that you do not allow him to "bully." He may be allowed to "guard" his chosen toy as long as he isn't growling at the other dogs clear across the room, not letting them pass thru door openings, hoarding all the toys and guarding them, etc. If he begins this behavior, take his objects away, put it out of sight and sneak it into the dogs box for someone else to find at a later time. The easiest way to give your alpha dog first choice is to take two toys, present them to him, let him pick one, then give the other one to the omega dog.

One of the best ways I've found to reassure pack position, especially when there is a new furry arrival, is to give the dogs' food treats in pack order. Let's say the alpha dog is "Buck", and the omega dog is "Tyler." Instruct all the dogs to SIT. Then, say "Buck's Treat!" and give a food treat to Buck. Then say "Tyler's Treat!" and give treat to Tyler. This exercise alone spells out very clearly where everyone stands on the ladder and also confirms they are both at the bottom of the "people+dog pack" because YOU are giving the food.

While you are doing the above suggestions it is important that you do not unwittingly encourage aggression in the alpha dog. This sometimes happends because people are under the false impression that they are supposed tolavish the alpha dog with attention, while almost ignoring the omega dog. If this happends, the omega dog may have a difficult time gaining confidence in itself because it is rarely praised for anything. And to make matters worse, the alpha dog may beleive that your true desire is to ignore the omega dog and give him(alpha dog) attention. Therefore, he beleives he is serving you by growling and showing aggression towards the omega dog.

This situation can be difficult and usually occurs when introducing a new dog into the pack.

Although the alpha dog may get more attention, do not lavish attention on him while purposely ignoring the omega dog. At the same time, you need to try tosneak in as much attention toward that omega dog as possible! Don't lock the alpha in another room to give the omega attention, rather, give the alpha a"job"to do, so he is servingyou and pleasing you. Play fetch with him while you pet the omega dog(easier said then done, but possible), put him in a down stay while you groom the omega dog(after you groomed him first) . When your done grooming, release them both at the sametime, then PRAISE the alpha first,then the omega. Do not praisethe omega less, just last! <o:p></o:p>

Avoid "holding" one dog.

Whenever a dog is on a lap, or withina "hug"(especially if the dog is Physically higher then the other, i.e. on a chair, couch, etc), they may become territorially protective of you the territory. If you must hold a dog, try to hold the alpha first to appease him, then put him down stay while you hold the omega. I have personally found that praising with food treats can be beneficial if you have a food-oriented alpha and you give the treats a (physical) distance apart from one another. If the dogs are commanded to "sit" before given a food treat every time before they are given the treat, they should stay in the "sit" apart from one another until they are both done eating and you release them. This will inhibit any desire for the alpha dog to attack the omega for the food.

When you have three or more dogs in a household it can be more difficult to figure out the pack hierarchy.In any pack, the standard is:

1. Alpha Male(Most dominant male)
2. Alpha Female(Most dominant Female)
3. Beta(Second most dominant Male)
4. Everyone in between
5. Omega(Most Submissive)

Aggression towards other dogs outside the pack.

Most dog fights happen because of carelessness. Your dog does not have tolike everydoghe sees. If you watchhim and get to understand his behavior patterns, dogfights and aggression towards other dogs can almost always be avoided. If your dog is leashed and growls at another dog or raises his hackles, first correct his unnecessary aggressive display with a firm leash correction and a no-nonsence NO. Then promptly remove him from the area of the other dog. If you ask for and get agreement fromthe owner of the other dog, you can, instead, stay long enough to give two or three more corrections. Always follow up with praise when and if the dog acts blase' towards the other dog after your correction.
Sometimes the leash, your instrument of control and safety, can be the cause of the aggression. On leash, your dog feels more frustrated as well as more feisty. Like the held back drunk who says, "let me go and I'll rip him apart," so the leashed dog feels tougher when held than when free. However, good judgement must be exercised before dogs are set free in the hopes that they will play.
Sometimes, when free and given room to manever, dogs will work things out on their own in a peaceful manner. They will sniff each other out, be a bit pushy, growl, walk on their toes and then play like puppies- but not always. Males often take an instant dislike to other males, perticularly but not only if they have been bred or if there is a bitch around, even a spayed one. Some males, depending on breed, temperment, enviroment, training and perhaps their hormones, take to easygoing play with other males dogs more or less all the time. Others never do. Bitches are less likly to fight, yet they may. You must KNOW your dog and watch other dogs. If everyone seems amenable and your dog willcome back when called, you can let him play with the other dogs-but don't do so with eyes closed.
If, with all your care and attention, a fight breaks out, try to break it up without getting your hands involved.Anyway you can douce the dogs with water often works to shock them enough to get them apart. If the dogs have tails, a person pulling on each dog can be effective. Some people grasp the hind legs of both dogs and lift them off the ground, but a dog in the middle of a fight may just lash out and bite, even if he would not normally do so.
There is no magic way of breaking up a fight without getting hurt ! If you are luck enough to have a blanket handy, toss it over the head to disrupt the fight. However, you may have to decide, quickly, if you will just stand by and let them fight it out or if you are willing to seperate them with the knowledge that you will probably be bitten. <o:p></o:p>

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K9 Military School <o:p></o:p>

The following is designed as a problem-solving tool only. Some of the items will be used for the rest of the dog's life - particularly the feeding regimen, possession, and the roadwork. Other items will be done only until the dog understands his position in society. <o:p></o:p>

When he graduates, release him from the items one at a time over a period of several weeks, watching for him to go back to his old ways. Many dog people and trainers suggest Military School one month in six as a preventative measure. It serves to keep the already obedience trained dog sharp and always remembering that you are still above him even tho he might be alpha dog in your dog pack. <o:p></o:p>

If there is any part of Military School that is liable to get you bitten while you're doing it, DON'T DO IT and GET HELP from a competent trainer! The following lessons will be a "must" for the dog who has shown dominance over human and other dog members of the household and needs to be brought down a peg or two. This is also useful for the alpha dog who is becoming overly aggressive to other dogs or animals in the family. Use some or all of the following suggestions to stem what could become major problems as dogs become adults. <o:p></o:p>

If you see signs at 7 months start this training then. As they reach sexual maturity, things can get quickly out of hand. Starting out early in the training of (especially) giant breeds, will assure the owner of an easy transition into adulthood. The following is not to be used in place of formal straight obedience training ie. in a class situation. <o:p></o:p>

1. Umbilical cord: This for overly dominant dogs in the family or those who are beginning to show the first signs of not thinking of their owners as above them. ie. Not staying in one place, not listening, mouthing humans and other animals. No dog should ever be allowed to put his mouth on you. Ever! As much as possible when you are at home, keep the dog on a leash and with you. Put a 6' leash on the dog, and attach the other end of the leash to a sturdy belt around your waist. Ignore the dog and go about your business. Having to constantly watch what you do and where you go will not only bond the dog to you, but will help make you important in his eyes. He learns that you are boss and he basically goes nowhere without you. <o:p></o:p>

2. Eye contact x 2: For up to 3 minutes twice a day, sit down with the dog sitting between your knees, and use a command such as Watch Me to get eye contact. If necessary, you might actually hold the dog's face to get eye contact. <o:p></o:p>

3. Obedience x 2: Twice a day, run quickly through an obedience session using whatever the dog knows how to do - Sit, Down, Come, Stay, Heel: repeat as needed. Train for 5 minutes each session. Do NOT touch the dog to praise him. Do not use treats as rewards. Voice praise only. For wildly happy dogs a quick and quiet "Good boy" is enough. Louder happier praise for a quieter dog, but still he must stay where he is and no touching on your part. <o:p></o:p>

4. Feeding: When food is left down for the dog to eat ad lib, the dog owns the food. Ownership is what dominance is all about, so we must take possession of the food. Feed the dog twice a day, in a confined area such as a crate. For giant breeds they should be kept from all exercise for one hour before eating and no heavy water drinking. After a full meal - another hour of quiet and no water.
Use a Feeding Ritual. Ask him if he's hungry, and if he's hungry, tell him to go to his area or get in his crate.
Then give him the food. As soon as he's finished, or as soon as he turns away from his food, take the dish away. If the dog is not successful at eating (doesn't eat his whole meal), give him half the amount at his next meal, until he is cleaning the bottom of the dish. A successful meal means he gets more at his next meal, until he is eating the amount that will keep him in optimum condition. The food must be high-quality and low-bulk. This is great for the poor eaters. Give no treats by hand. Don't change food brands all the time. Find a good one and stick with it. Poor eaters are usually made not born. Dogs love rituals and you are teaching his body to get ready to eat when he hears the beginning of the ritual. <o:p></o:p>

5. Possession is 9/10 of the Law: At least once a day, roll the dog over on the floor or on your lap, and handle him. Repeat the words These are my ears! This is my paw! This is my muzzle! This is my tail! as you handle him. If he struggles, express your annoyance with a growl and a little shake, and start again. It's important that the dog doesn't get away : then he has informed you that he owns his muzzle, and that can't be true. When he is completely relaxed and accepts your ownership, say OK and release him. Particularly work on feet. This will pay off when it comes time to do nails. <o:p></o:p>

6. Long Down-Stay: Do one 30-minute Down-Stay every day. You can watch TV but the dog must be in plain sight and you must be aware of him. He can roll over, go to sleep, and look annoyed or bored, but he cannot get up or walk away. <o:p></o:p>

7. I'm-The-Mommy Down: At least once a day, just because you felt like it, tell the dog to lie down. When he does, use your voice only to tell him he did a good job, say Okay or Stay, and walk away. If he gets up do not repeat the command but "place" him where he was told to stay the first time. And again leave him. Repeat if necessary. <o:p></o:p>

8. Bosshood Is In The Eye Of The Beholder: Consider life from the dog's point of view. He sleeps where he wants, he eats when he wants, he leads you around. Any wonder he gets the impression that he's the Boss?
Don't allow him to go through doors ahead of you.
Don't allow him to go up or down stairs ahead of you.
Don't allow him to lead you down hallways. Always position him so you are leading and he is following. Make him think about where you are and what you're doing. When he orders you to let him out, take charge of going outside. Build a ritual around the door. Focus his attention on you: Do you want to go out? Go to the door? Want to go out? Sit. Down. Sit. Stay. Then open the door and order him out: Okay, go outside! You change the situation so you are in charge of it. Keep the dog on the floor. Not on the couch, not on the chair, not halfway up the stairs surveying his domain, not in your lap, On the floor. Don't leave the dog loose in the house or yard when you're not home. Free run of the house when the Boss isn't home allows the dog to feel powerful and in charge. Don't allow the dog to sleep on your bed, or on a child's bed. Dogs recognize the bed as a throne for the Boss. Allowing them on it - especially dominant type dogs only encourages them to become more so. If he sleeps away from you, however, he will think that you own the bedroom, but he owns the rest of the house. The dog can sleep in your bedroom. but on his own bed. Crate young dogs or until they are trustworthy. <o:p></o:p>

9. Work Off Energy: Roadwork the dog 4 days a week. Start small, but work up to a mile for small dogs, 2 miles for medium dogs, and 3 miles for large dogs. Many problems will disappear with no more effort than road working. You can jog with the dog, or ride a bike, or longe him with a Flexilead, or use a motorized trike, or lend him to a jogger who's afraid of being mugged. (Do not road work a giant breed until 24 months old. Find alternate means of exercise - preferably off-leash romps.) <o:p></o:p>

10. Busy Hands Are Happy Hands: If you want to pet the dog, he must first do pushups : Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down : then you can pet him for a count of 5 only. He never gets petted because he wants to be or because he demands it, only because you want to and he earns it. Then you pet him for only a moment, and turn away with him wanting more. <o:p></o:p>

11. When dogs are young they will teach you to become the perfect housekeeper. Leave nothing around that isn't on display. The only things lying around can be the dog toys which he is allowed to play with. Keep them in a basket where he can find them. Always in the same place. Do not give him toys which look like other things in the home. ie. old socks or shoes. He cannot tell the difference. Chewers usually get that way because they have been brought up in homes where there is lots of interesting stuff to investigate lying around the floor. <o:p></o:p>

12. You're the Boss Rules: Give the dog only one toy. If he wants to chase the toy, bring it to you and let you have it, throw it again. If he won't chase it, or won't give it to you, turn your back and walk away. He has two choices, he can play with you and the toy, or he can play with the toy alone. <o:p></o:p>

13. Do not allow youngsters or adult humans to wrestle with your dog. It places you, in the dogs mind, as a sibling which also tells him he is on the same level as you. Wrong. Indulging in such play does not tell the dog who is boss and with a very alpha type dog, this can get dangerous as he reaches maturity. <o:p></o:p>

14. Eliminate Hormones: Have problem dogs neutered. It is a fact that most dog bites are made by whole, mature adult, dogs. Neuter early. It will not make him smaller. Studies in fact show the opposite. Dogs neutered early tend toward becoming taller than their unneutered siblings. Many problems will solve themselves with no more effort than this. Not only will the dog be healthier and easier to live with, but your life will be made simpler, and you eliminate the possibility of your problem dog producing more problem dogs. <o:p></o:p>

(author unknown) <o:p></o:p>

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Open Bar/ Closed Bar<o:p></o:p>

The best way to desensitize a reactive/aggressive dog to other dog when out on walks is to use a desensitizing method known as "OPEN BAR/CLOSED BAR". Jean Donaldson is the author of two great books, "The Culture Clash" and "Dogs are From Neptune" (available at www.dogwise.com) have great information on how implement "Bar is Open." This retraining may take a number of weeks, preferably with daily work, but you'll be rewarded with a lifetime of happy walks with your non-lunging, non-whining dog.

The key is in careful management and in keeping encounters with other dogs below your dog's reaction threshold. Find the distance where you dog first sees another dog but hasn't started to react in any physical way. It's important to carefully manage these situations and keep all encounters with other dogs *below* your dog's reaction threshold. If they are lunging, barking, pulling hard,etc. then you've let things go to far.  <o:p></o:p>

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You must prevent this from happening by intervening the second you see that your dog has noticed the other dog and is getting tense. Don't give them the opportunity to practice behaviors you don't want. It will be your responsibility to keep your dog at bay from the things that they react strongly too until they learn new and better behavior.

So . . . the first thing you want to do is find your dog's threshold level.
Determine at what distance you can be before he reacts. It could be anywhere from 50 feet, or 25 feet, or 5 feet. It doesn't matter what your starting point is you just need to find it.<o:p></o:p>

Your goal is to stay below this threshold. In order to do this well it may involve having to change the places you normally walk you dog. You need to be able to see what is approaching. Neighborhood streets are good for this because you can usually see other dogs from a distance first. Dog parks are way too unpredictable.

Next, get some really tasty treats. NOT the flavored kibble treats from the grocery store! I mean the really Good stuff. The stuff we love,
steak, cheese, chicken and garlic, roast beef, etc. Find what you dog is willing to die for to have. Much the way we do for stuff we like chocolate! :-)

As soon as he sees the other dogs and gives the slightest hint that
he's going to be reactive, start offering those treats his way. Be generous.
If your dog won't take them then you've already passed their threshold.

What you are doing in this is, in effect, changing your dog’s mindset about other dogs altogether. Instead of instant fear or aggression at the site of other dogs, your dog now knows that other dogs equal good things are happening to them. He sees other dogs and knows that wonderful food is going to come his way. Yes! Wow! He will soon start to realize that the presence of other dogs is the best thing in the world that could possibly ever happen.

Be sure to do this daily and at different times during the day or night. It is find to change up the scenario too. Do this Open Bar technique with all sizes of dogs, dogs behind fences, dogs that are running, dogs that are on and off leash. The only common element needs to be the association of other dogs and the Bar Opening.

Eventually, your dog will start to look at you when he sees other dogs.
Great! This is what you want!! The more he pays attention to you and less on other dogs the better it will be. In time, you will be able to greatly reduce to distance between your dog and the other dogs and you will then use your clicking and treating to further shape better behavior. There will be some tweaking that will occur but basically this should get you started on the right track.

 
It is important to begin stuffing luscious high-value food treats (snippets of roast beef, or little pieces of cubed cheese) just as soon as your dog catches a glimpse of other dog in the far distance. You'll know that your dog is in their comfort level if they will accept the food treats.

Do not progress forward, stay at this distance. When you want to
finish this step or when other dog walks away, STOP feeding your own dog. Walk away in an indirect-arched path away from other dog. This is the BAR IS CLOSED part of this method.

Continue this practice for at least three, sometimes four days, perhaps more if needed. Then for the next practice walk, gradually begin to: <o:p></o:p>

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1. Decrease the distance slightly, say by five feet,
*and*
2. Increase the duration of the exposure to other dog. <o:p></o:p>

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If you are leash walking a dog and using this open bar/closed bar method and your dog is still pulling and lunging . . . then something is terribly wrong. You are pushing him beyond his limits.  <o:p></o:p>

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Don't subject him to this level of distraction. It’s too much. You must stay in control and not allow him to get out of control! Don't get into
situations like this. You need to do this outside but not to a dog park or area with tons of dogs. Carry you dog to your car if you have to in order to prevent them from practicing unwanted behavior and drive to some place that has minimum distractions.  <o:p></o:p>

Eventually you’ll be able to got to areas with higher distraction levels. However, if your dog begins to react there as well then you've gone too far and you need to lower your criteria. Try walking on neighborhood streets in off hours where you will only encounter a few dogs and work up from there when you are already successful at lower level distractions 99 percent of the time. <o:p></o:p>

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NILF<o:p></o:p>

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Undesirable behavior can be caused by many things, including undetected illness. No behavior modification program should begin without first taking the dog to a veterinarian for a complete physical examination. While you're there, give your vet a printed copy of this page and ask if it would be an appropriate technique for you to try. The NILIF program is an accepted standard in dog training/behavior but it is not, and is not intended to be, a substitute for an in-person, professional evaluation of your dog's behavior. This technique is intended for dogs in good health and of sound mind and stable temperament. <o:p></o:p>

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NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE<o:p></o:p>

The NILIF program is remarkable because it's effective for such a wide variety of problems. A shy, timid dog becomes more relaxed knowing that he has nothing to worry about, his owner is in charge of all things. A dog that's pushing too hard to become "top dog" learns that the position is not available and that his life is far more enjoyable without the title.

It is equally successful with dogs that fall anywhere between those two extremes. The program is not difficult to put into effect and it's not time consuming if the dog already knows a few basic obedience commands. I've never seen this technique fail to bring about a positive change in behavior, however, the change can be more profound in some dogs than others. Most owners use this program in conjunction with other behavior modification techniques such as coping with fear or treatment for aggression. It is a perfectly suitable technique for the dog with no major behavior problems that just needs some fine tuning.

ATTENTION ON DEMAND
The program begins by eliminating attention on demand. When your dog comes to you and nudges your hand, saying "pet me! pet me!" ignore him. Don't tell him "no", don't push him away. Simply pretend you don't notice him. This has worked for him before, so don't be surprised if he tries harder to get your attention. When he figures out that this no longer works, he'll stop. In a pack situation, the top ranking dogs can demand attention from the lower ranking ones, not the other way around. When you give your dog attention on demand you're telling him that he has more status in the pack than you do. Timid dogs become stressed by having this power and may become clingy. They're never sure when you'll be in charge so they can't relax. What if something scary happens, like a stranger coming in the house? Who will handle that? The timid dog that is demanding of attention can be on edge a lot of the time because he has more responsibility than he can handle.

Some dogs see their ability to demand attention as confirmation that they are the "alpha", then become difficult to handle when told to "sit" or "down" or some other demand is placed on them. It is not their leadership status that stresses them out, it's the lack of consistency. They may or may not actually be alpha material, but having no one in the pack that is clearly the leader is a bigger problem than having the dog assume that role full time. Dogs are happiest when the pack order is stable. Tension is created by a constant fluctuation of pack leadership.

EXTINCTION BURSTS
Your dog already knows that he can demand your attention and he knows what works to get that to happen. As of today, it no longer works, but he doesn't know that yet. We all try harder at something we know works when it stops working. If I gave you a twenty dollar bill every time you clapped your hands together, you'd clap a lot. But, if I suddenly stopped handing you money, even though you were still clapping, you'd clap more and clap louder. You might even get closer to me to make sure I was noticing that you were clapping. You might even shout at me "Hey! I'm clapping like crazy over here, where's the money?". If I didn't respond at all, in any way, you'd stop. It wasn't working anymore. That last try -- that loud, frequent clapping is an extinction burst. If, however, during that extinction burst, I gave you another twenty dollar bill you'd be right back in it. It would take a lot longer to get you to stop clapping because you just learned that if you try hard enough, it will work.

When your dog learns that the behaviors that used to get him your attention don't work any more he's going to try harder and he's going to have an extinction burst. If you give him attention during that time you will have to work that much harder to get him turned around again. Telling him "no" or pushing him away is not the kind of attention he's after, but it's still attention. Completely ignoring him will work faster and better.

YOU HAVE THE POWER
As the human and as his owner you have control of all things that are wonderful in his life. This is the backbone of the NILIF program. You control all of the resources. Playing, attention, food, walks, going in and out of the door, going for a ride in the car, going to the dog park. Anything and everything that your dog wants comes from you. If he's been getting most of these things for free there is no real reason for him to respect your leadership or your ownership of these things. Again, a timid dog is going to be stressed by this situation, a pushy dog is going to be difficult to handle. Both of them would prefer to have you in charge.

To implement the NILIF program you simply have to have your dog earn his use of your resources. He's hungry? No problem, he simply has to sit before his bowl is put down. He wants to play fetch? Great! He has to "down" before you throw the ball. Want to go for a walk or a ride? He has to sit to get his lead snapped on and has to sit while the front door is opened. He has to sit and wait while the car door is opened and listen for the word (I use "OK") that means "get into the car". When you return he has to wait for the word that means "get out of the car" even if the door is wide open. Don't be too hard on him. He's already learned that he can make all of these decisions on his own. He has a strong history of being in control of when he gets these resources. Enforce the new rules, but keep in mind that he's only doing what he's been taught to do and he's going to need some time to get the hang of it all.

You're going to have to pay attention to things that you probably haven't noticed before. If you feed your dog from your plate do you just toss him a green bean? No more. He has to earn it. You don't have to use standard obedience commands, any kind of action will do. If your dog knows "shake" or "spin around" or "speak" use those commands. Does your dog sleep on your bed? Teach him that he has to wait for you to say "OK" to get on the bed and he has to get down when you say "off". Teach him to go to his bed, or other designated spot, on command. When he goes to his spot and lays down tell him "stay" and then release him with a treat reward. Having a particular spot where he stays is very helpful for when you have guests or otherwise need him out of the way for a while. It also teaches him that free run of the house is a resource that you control. There are probably many things that your dog sees as valuable resources that I haven't mentioned here.

The NILIF program should not be a long, drawn out process. All you need to do is enforce a simple command before allowing him access to what he wants. Dinner, for example, should be a two or three second encounter that consists of nothing more than saying "sit", then "good dog!", then putting the bowl down and walking away.

ATTENTION AND PLAY
Now that your dog is no longer calling the shots you will have to make an extra effort to provide him with attention and play time. Call him to you, have him "sit" and then lavish him with as much attention as you want. Have him go get his favorite toy and play as long as you both have the energy. The difference is that now you will be the one initiating the attention and beginning the play time. He's going to depend on you now, a lot more than before, to see that he gets what he needs. What he needs most is quality time with you. This would be a good time to enroll in a group obedience class. If his basic obedience is top notch, see about joining an agility class or fly ball team.

NILIF DOES *NOT* MEAN THAT YOU HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF ATTENTION YOU GIVE TO YOUR DOG. The NILIF concept speaks to who initiates the attention (you!), not the amount of attention. Go ahead and call your dog to you 100 times a day for hugs and kisses!! You can demand his attention, he can no longer demand yours!

Within a day or two your dog will see you in a whole new light and will be eager to learn more. Use this time to teach new things, such as 'roll over' or learn the specific names of different toys.

If you have a shy dog, you'll see a more relaxed dog. There is no longer any reason to worry about much of anything. He now has complete faith in you as his protector and guide. If you have a pushy dog he'll be glad that the fight for leadership is over and his new role is that of devoted and adored pet. <o:p></o:p>

©1999 Deb McKean

visit Deb's website: K9Deb<o:p></o:p>

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