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Engine/Mech : New alternator
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 Message 1 of 5 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamehorsedoc0  (Original Message)Sent: 11/22/2007 12:26 AM
Quick question for any electrical savy patrol nuts out there.  I have a 69, it had factory alernator still on it.  Now that I have it running well, I realized the alternator was not charging.  Volt meter test shows no charge, nor positive charge on ampmeter.  I found a Hitachi replacement, Mitsubishi, I believe and pulled the pull and fan and fabricated spaces, etc. to line up belt.  It was a direct bolt up after the pully modifications.  Just not sure on the wiring, I believe it has an internal volt regulator based on the external prong attachments.  I still does not seem to charge not even at high RMP.  I did my best to "one wire" it in bi-passing the external regulator.  I need help.  Not sure if this is correct, any suggestions.  Thanks


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The number of members that recommended this message. 0 recommendations  Message 2 of 5 in Discussion 
Sent: 11/23/2007 12:42 AM
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 Message 3 of 5 in Discussion 
From: riverpatrolSent: 11/23/2007 7:41 PM
Starting in '68 the Patrol had an alternator with an external voltage regulator.
 
I have done a one-wire wiring job before, but that was using a Delco alternator with an internal regulator. I did have to wire in an additional dash light to act as a resistor for the charging system to work properly.

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 Message 4 of 5 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamehorsedoc0Sent: 11/23/2007 8:59 PM
This is a Hitachi model.   I have a Bat terminal, Ground and "F" and "N" terminal on the alternator.  I assumed this was due to an internal regulator.  I assumed the F was Field and the N the stator.  I have been trying to figure out what makes this darn alternator charge, does not seem to be RMP related.  It also seems to draw down on the battery very quickly (when not running).  I have a fear it may not work, but after the pulley mods and nice direct bolt up fit, I was hopeful I could figure some wiring to allow it to charge.  Also I can't seem to find any info for checking the external regulator (orginal) that I have.  None of my manuals (not 1969?) have any info to check its function. 

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 Message 5 of 5 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameAbuelo442Sent: 11/24/2007 5:22 AM
The F is the Field terminal, and where you connect the regulator. The N terminal is used to control the light in the instrument panel (when available) but through the regulator.
 
One way to bypass the regulator, is to connect a wire from the BAT terminal to the F. Raise the rpm to around 1500. The volts should be between 14 and 15V. Be careful not to raise more the rpm, since the alternator is capable of producing 18V or more and you can burn some components. If you're getting a reading like above, the alternator is good.
 
If the battery is being drain by the alternator, the internal diodes are shot. There's way to check the diodes, but they must be disconnected from the Stator winding.

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