I know of only one member who can advise you on working with these particular birds.   I haven't seen her post for awhile, but I know she hasn't flown the coop entirely. Will try to get her in here for you but it may be a few days.  Be patient.

 

I guess I'd also say be patient with this baby--it will take awhile for it to learn that human hands can bring good things, not always those awful medicines.  If it knows to be gentle while away from the cage, I'd try offering small food items by hand and praising profusely when it takes them gently.

If you are thinking of the same person I am, she posted yesterday in the African webcam thread. Maybe she'll peek in here since the species is in the title.

Good going, Purple, that really helps members to notice you.

Annie

Oh yeah!  She was looking for a jackal lantern

I've been in lurk mode lately, too much on my plate I think.  I can only comment on my observations with my severe Shasta, but you might see some similarities to your situation.  Shasta is very cage-territorial, and during her "terrible twos" it got so bad that I couldn't even put my hand into her cage without getting bitten badly.  My solution to that was to teach her to hang on the door (it might even be better if there is a perch attached to the inside for your little one to sit on) and then I'd swing the door open with her on it.  She wasn't nearly as nippy once she was outside the cage.  We've gotten past the excessive biting stage, she just turned 5 in Sept...but it is still an iffy proposition if I put my hand inside her cage and ask her to step up.  Her cage is home, sanctuary, the place she goes to feel safe.  And she wants to come out in her own time, not mine.  I respect that, or risk a bite..simple as that.

 

You said that (s)he is afraid of hands after being treated for the infection.  I'm guessing here, but it sounds like hands reaching into the cage, and then the struggle to get the medicine down gave the baby the impression that hands equal fear and stress.  And with my severe, fear and stress equal biting mode.  You did say that once (s)he is away from the cage there isn't a problem?  With hands either?

 

Can you give treats without losing a finger?  I know I can't, because Shasta is like a crocodile around food and will take a pine nut all the way past the first finger joint.  But I can hand her something larger, no problems.  If you can find a favorite treat it probably wouldn't hurt to use it to associate hands with good things.  Another suggestion that I have (and I know Annie and others would probably suggest it, too) is try to teach your severe to take soft foods (like baby food) from a spoon.  It makes it a whole lot easier to give medicine without any of the stress.  All of mine get a warm mix of handfeeding formula and baby food before bedtime.  Makes it so much easier to give my B&G her allergy meds.  Good luck with your severe, they're great little birds but seem to need a bit more understanding and firm guidance than some of the others.

I don't have a severe but I have a couple of questions and your answers may help someone to help you further.

How long ago was she weaned? How old was she when she weaned?

Did she do it herself or did you decide it was time to stop the handfeedings? Does she ever cry like a baby does when they are hungry?

 

I do not mean to suggest you did anything wrong because I don't even know you. Many people do wean them way too early to my way of thinking. I am a big believer in offering a handfeeding til they absolutely will not get near a syringe (I use a syringe as opposed to a spoon). Then I offer it again for several more days. I am kinda pushy.

 

And I do agree with ZonkersMom that it pays to keep offering the spoon forever, just once in a while if you don't have time to do it every day. My ekkie had a very critical illness at age two, and luckily she still loved her tiny syringed bites. We still do it now and she is 9 years old. Makes giving antibiotics so easy. My other birds cannot be dosed without all out war. They spit and sputter and fling it all over the room.

Annie

it weened on its own but am now putting forulma on soft food.its been totaly  weened for a little over a month. we too feed with syringe Have been letting it come to me . its only been here since last sun.  i have the baby in my room where I spend a lot of time working on crafts instead of dinning room ,where most of the other kids are . But take him down to play. Takes treats from me but no one else in family tho he likes the grand kids does not bite me hard just kinda grabs fingers Thank you

 This one has only been weened for about a month but i am putting b-food on his soft food and giveing him treets off my plate. am trying to treet him like i would any other one like him but hes still a baby so wondered if there was ant thing else i could do. at least i am not a total stranger to him . i sit for this lady so did hand feed it when it was tiny thank god i wasnt there when it was sick. so I didnt have to be a meenie to him. Guess it will just take time Thank you

Occasionally?  Like...when they're happy, sad, angry, not feeling well, hungry, sleepy, scared, or on those special occasions when they realize they haven't given you a bite in about an hour or so?  Who else will pinch and say "Ow" so you don't have to?  Or out of the blue decide to "kill" your elbow because it's there?  I tell ya, they're part crocodile.  I shouldn't complain...Shasta is the only one who will climb down her cage at 5am to latch on like a Chinese finger trap and lean against my hand until I finally have to pry her loose so I won't be late for work.   She's so cute and cuddly before she wakes up fully.

For what it's worth... Announce yourself before going into the quarentine room. That way they are less inclined to be defensive. If you announce everything that you are doing for them and with them, they are focussing on your face, and less on the hands. Be positive. Bring your hands up from under them, not over their head. Over the head means predator, from under them, it means support.

Teach them to step backwards to step up, and it lessens the chances for getting nailed with that beak. When carrying them, keep them on the fore arm, and hold it close to your waist rather than allow them access to your shoulder. It puts their head above yours, or level with yours. They need to know their position in the flock with you as leader... it means that their head/body should remain lower than your head. Also body shots when they are in a cantancerous mood are less likely to happen if your body is close. They can't strike as easily.