LEMON-HERB LEG OF LAMB WITH 15-MINUTE CINNAMON RICE

Serves 6 to 8

Permeate the lamb with lemon and oregano by seasoning it the evening before roasting. Since the lamb roasts in 1-1/2 to 2 hours, depending on size and how cold it is when it goes into the oven, and then needs another 15 minutes of rest at room temperature, plan the timing of other dishes accordingly.

Roasted asparagus and a salad of Bibb lettuce and little dandelion leaves would be excellent with the lamb and rice.

Seasoning the Lamb:

1/4 cup good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil

2 canned tomatoes, crushed

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Juice of 1 large lemon

1 teaspoon dry oregano

Leaves from 3 branches fresh thyme

1/3 tightly packed cup fresh basil leaves, torn

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5- to 7-pound bone-in leg of lamb, trimmed of all surface fat

Roasting the Lamb:

1-1/2 cups canned tomatoes with their liquid

2 medium onions, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (optional)

1/3 cup Greek kalamata black olives

About 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1-1/2 cups dry red wine (zinfandel, cabernet, merlot)

1/2 cup chicken broth

Juice of 1 medium lemon

If possible, season lamb a day ahead and refrigerate it overnight lightly covered. Prepare the seasonings by blending together the olive oil, 2 canned tomatoes, lemon zest and juice, the oregano, thyme, basil and black pepper. Make about 12 deep, wide slits all over the lamb and stuff with all but a few tablespoons of the mixture. Rub the rest over the meat.

To roast the lamb, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread 1-1/2 cups canned tomatoes, optional onions and the olives in the center of a low-sided roasting pan (a half-sheet pan is ideal). Set on them the lamb with all its seasonings. Sprinkle it with salt. Roast 20 minutes.

Pour 1/2 cup of the wine over meat. Roast another 30 minutes, pour the rest of the wine over the meat, and baste. Continue roasting, basting often with the pan juices for 50 minutes, or until the meat reaches 130 degrees on an instant-reading thermometer for medium rare.

Transfer lamb to a platter. Keep warm in the turned-off oven, leaving the door open. The lamb will continue cooking, coming up to about 135 degrees internal temperature.

To make a pan sauce, set the roasting pan over two burners heated to medium. Stir in the 1/2 cup broth. Bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spatula. When the pan sauce is thick and rich-tasting, check for salt and pepper and keep warm. Thinly slice the lamb, arranging pieces around the leg, and moisten with the pan sauce and olives. Squeeze the lemon juice all over meat. Serve hot.

15-MINUTE CINNAMON RICE

Serves 6 to 8 generously

Boiling rice like pasta eases all the angst around cooking rice. There is no chance of scorching the rice, or overcooking it. Taste it just as you would pasta. When it is just this side of done, drain it. Its own heat will finish the cooking.

5 quarts water in 6-quart pot

2 tablespoons salt

4 3-inch cinnamon sticks, broken

2 cups long-grain rice

1/2 cup raisins

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice, or to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

11 parsley leaves

Bring the water with the salt and cinnamon sticks to a boil. Drop in the rice and boil 10 to 15 minutes or until the rice is tender but still a little firm. Drain in a sieve, remove most of the cinnamon sticks, and gently toss with the raisins, butter, allspice and pepper. Scatter with parsley leaves and serve with the lamb.