On the northwest coast, Montego Bay is Jamaica's 2nd-largest city and its capital of tourism.

By day, tourists from cruise ships scour crafts markets and duty-free boutiques. By night, they groove to the rhythms that shake the foundations of clubs along the ocean-front Gloucester Avenue. The heart of the Jamaican Riviera, Montego Bay is a paradise of palm-covered hills edging toward sun-warmed beaches and turquoise sea. But there's more to Montego Bay than tourist attractions. This is a city rich in history and tradition. Close your eyes and imagine what life was like when plantations reigned supreme.

Montego Bay's elegant Great Houses were built centuries ago by English planters, whose farms supplied Europe with sugar, rum and bananas. Rose Hall, the most famous of the city's manor homes, attracts visitors from around the world. And Greenwood House, built by a cousin of poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning, features an extensive collection of rare musical instruments. But don't get the idea that Montego Bay is a stuffy museum. Aristocrats built their homes here because of its sublime climate. Even Columbus was impressed by Montego Bay, christening it El Golfo de Buen Tiempo, the Gulf of Good Weather. Less-romantic Spanish adventurers renamed the place Bahia de Manteco (Lard Bay). But Jamaicans today know this bustling, beautiful slice of heaven by one name only: Mobay.

Just off the coast from Sangster International Airport are 10 square miles of spectacular coral reefs, teeming with marine life.At the turn of the 20th century, weary travelers flocked here to take the cure at Doctor's Cave Beach. The waters may not be as restorative as an English doctor of the time declared. But the beach is, nonetheless, one of the Caribbean's most beautiful, with wide patches of sand peppered with sea grapes and almond trees.

Anglers come here from around the world to haul in blue marlin. And boat lovers love Montego Bay as well. The Montego Bay Yacht Club, in fact, hosts the biannual Pineapple Cup race. On land, there's much to do as well. Golf is superb in Montego Bay, which boasts four 18-hole championship courses, including world-renowned Tryall. Good Hope Plantation offers miles of winding trails for horseback riding. And Montego Bay was made for shoppers. At the Harbour Street Crafts market, vendors tempt tourists with straw bags, batik wrap-arounds and wood carvings. Duty-free shops offer everything from perfume, cigars and liquor to china, crystal and Scottish cashmere. And the "Hip Strip" of Gloucester Avenue pulses with restaurants, art galleries and stores. Nights in Montego Bay are as varied as the city itself. You'll find everything from elegant restaurants to intimate seaside cafes and stands selling spicy local favorites. And on the music scene, reggae reigns in Montego Bay, home of the annual Reggae Sumfest in August.