Gardening list •Make a list of what you want to plant •Draw out plans for any new gardens(flower, veggie or ????) •Make a supply list •Decide which needs to be done first •Go buy supplies •Get Started!!!!

 

What & When to Sow....

For many gardeners, the growing season officially begins long before the spring thaw. The season kickoff happens indoors with a packet of seeds sown on a sunny windowsill.

Sowing seeds indoors is a simple technique. As long as you pay attention to light, temperature, and moisture, success comes easily. Here are some guidelines.

When you start them indoors, many annual flowers begin blooming earlier in the growing season. Geraniums, verbena, impatiens, salvias, coleus, lobelias, and many others can be sown indoors. Even the quick growers like zinnias and marigolds, which are traditionally sown directly in the garden, benefit from a jump-start indoors. You can also grow many perennial and biennial flowers from seeds, as well as vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers that need warm soil to get started.

As a general rule, sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Some smaller-seeded annuals, such as petunias, snapdragons, and begonias, need more time to reach transplant size. Information on the seed packet is your best guide in knowing when to sow. Time indoor plantings so that your seedlings do not outgrow their containers before it is time to plant them out in the garden. Seedlings kept indoors too long will be weak; they will grow slowly and bloom poorly.

Sowing the Seeds.....

Choose a container at least 2 inches deep with drainage holes—a terra cotta or plastic pot works just fine, or a plastic growing flat, or a clear-lidded deli container with holes punched in the bottom. Later, you'll need to transfer the seedlings to small individual pots, multi-cell packs, or peat pots that you can plant directly in the ground outdoors in the spring.

To avoid disease problems, use fresh potting mix. Commercial seed-starting mixes are usually blended from finely milled sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite. Soil-less houseplant mixes containing perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss work well, too. Moisten the seed-starting mix; then fill containers and level the mix.

Tiny seeds can be scattered over the surface of the soil-less mix; for larger seeds, trace shallow furrows on the surface. Cover seeds lightly, if necessary. Some seeds need light to germinate and should be left uncovered. Check the seed packet for recommended planting depth."

Moisture and Light........

To maintain moisture, cover the seed-starting container with a clear plastic dome or make a tent with a clear plastic bag.

Keep the container in a warm location (about 75 degrees F) to encourage quick germination. As soon as seedlings sprout, remove the plastic cover and move the seedlings to a cooler spot. The seedlings of many annuals grow best at around 65 to 70 degrees.

Water the emerging seedlings gently to avoid disturbing them. Allow the container to soak up water from below, or water from above with a mister. About one week after the seedlings appear, begin feeding them every time you water with a dilute water-soluble fertilizer.

Bright light is the key to growing sturdy, healthy seedlings indoors. If you live where late winter days are often cloudy, even a south-facing window may not provide enough light for your seedlings. Consider supplementing natural light with a fluorescent shop light, hung so the tubes are just an inch or two above the leaves. Wide-spectrum tubes come closest to duplicating sunlight, but cool white tubes give similar results at a fraction of the cost. Connect your shop light to an automatic timer that switches the light on for 14 to 16 hours a day.

Transplanting.......

When the seedlings have formed their second set of leaves, they're ready to transplant to individual containers. Don't delay too long in transplanting the seedlings or you will find yourself ripping tangled roots.

Individual pots or multi-cell packs allow each seedling to develop roots free of competition and avoid transplant shock later on when you move your seedlings to the garden.

To transplant seedlings, carefully lift plants by their leaves (not stems), loosening the soil from around their roots with a sharpened pencil. Replant them in moist, all-purpose potting soil at the same depth they grew before or slightly deeper.

Tender annuals won't tolerate frost, so wait until winter is gone for good before setting your transplants out in the garden. Gradually acclimate your seedlings to outdoor weather over a period of two or three weeks. Start by setting the seedling flats in a shady, protected location for an hour or two a day. A coldframe facilitates the acclimation to outdoors, but any spot protected from wind and strong sunlight will do. Gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings spend outdoors and their exposure to sunlight.

Expert Tips.........

When planting more than one variety, label each container. Tiny seedlings can be difficult to distinguish.

Recycle cardboard egg cartons as seed-starting equipment. Sow one or two seeds in soil-less mix in each compartment. On planting day, carefully peel away the cardboard without disturbing the root ball.

When seedlings emerge too close together, thin them without disturbing the roots of those that remain by snipping off the extras at the surface.

Most seeds need warmth to germinate. Put your seed-starting containers on top of your refrigerator, where the additional warmth will speed the process.

If your seedlings grow weak and spindly, they are likely not getting enough light, or the room they are growing in is too warm.

Some gardeners find transplanting the seedlings to be tedious, so they eliminate that step by sowing their seeds directly into multi-cell packs, one or two seeds per cell.

Damping-off is a fungus disease that causes seedlings to suddenly wilt and die. To prevent damping-off, use clean containers and fresh soil-less mix; keep the mix lightly moist but not saturated; and leave enough space between seedlings to allow for air to circulate.

Certain seeds have special requirements for temperature or planting depth. Read the seed packets for any additional instructions.