Organic vs. Chemical fertilizers

Organic fertilizers are made from plant products such as cottonseed meal or from animal products such as poultry manure or fish emulsion and must break down before the plants can take them up.  Chemical fertilizers are made from products such as ammonium nitrate which is a more intense feeding which breaks down almost immediately.  Because they are so strong, they can sometimes over feed which can cause burning of the leaves or other detrimental effects.  Once the fertilizers break down they are virtually indistinguishable to the plants.  The process of taking up nutrients is a chemical reaction and all of the fertilizers become chemicals as they are absorbed.  The main difference is in how they are broken down. 

Spray on types such as Miracle Gro feed through the leaves of the plant.  This is a very quick way to feed which was designed for greenhouse commercial growers to feed every time they watered rather than feeding through the roots.  We feel that this encourages too much leaf growth and weakens the plant's root system since it roots are hardly needed.  Long term, it can also build up salt in the soil from the ammonium nitrate which prevents the natural taking up of nutrients. 

We always prefer to use worm castings as the worm's digestive system is a perfect vehicle for the nutrients to break down.  They do the work for the plants and excrete the perfect chemical makeup for roots to absorb.  Nature is so dynamic that way, it makes its own machines!  Castings also actually work within the soil to release other nutrients already there and make them available to plants too.

Recipe for a complete organic fertilizer

I've been using this recipe, which to the best of my knowledge was created by Steve Solomon (founder of Territorial Seed Company), for six years now with good results. One word of caution: Instead of buying the components in small boxes, buy bulk bags (40-50 lbs.) at a farm supply or feed store. As long as you keep them dry, they will last for many years.

All measurements are in terms of volume, not weight.

• 4 parts seed meal
• 1 part dolomite lime
• ½ part bone meal -or- 1 part soft rock phosphate
• ½ part kelp meal

Source:  http://westsidegardener.com/howto/fertilizer.html

 

Soil For Vegetables

The ideal garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained (internally as well as on the surface), has plenty of organic matter, and is free of weeds and diseases. Such soils are difficult to find, but with proper preparation and management, less-than-ideal soils can be productive.

Water moves quickly through an internally well-drained soil and never completely shuts off air movement. Drainage is important because roots cannot develop, live, and function without a constant supply of oxygen. Clay soils dry slowly after a rain because the spaces in them are small and water moves through them slowly. Sandy soils, on the other hand, have many spaces and dry out quickly.

Clay and sandy soils can be partially changed to substitute for a rich loam by adding organic matter. Increasing the organic matter content of a clay soil improves the tilth, makes it easier to work, and improves the internal drainage. Adding organic matter to a sandy soil increases its water-holding capacity and improves its fertility.

The garden soil affects the way vegetable plants grow and look. When soils are cold, wet, crusty, or cloddy, seedlings are slow to emerge and some may not survive. Root rot diseases may take a heavy toll on seedlings, especially beans. Other soil-related plant symptoms are short plants, slow growth, poor color, and shallow and malformed roots. Soil symptoms of poor structure are crusts, hard soil layers below the surface, standing water, and erosion.

Increase the soil’s organic matter content by adding manure, composted leaves, sawdust, bark, or peat moss; or by turning under plant residues like sweet corn stalks after harvest, and green manure crops (soybeans, rye, southern pea plants, and others). Plant residues should be free of diseases if they are to be added to the garden soil. Cover crops, such as clovers and vetch, planted in the fall prevent soil erosion and leaching of plant nutrients. They also provide organic matter and nitrogen when turned under in spring.

Manures vary in their content of fertilizing nutrients. The amount of straw, age, exposure to the elements, and degree of composting change their composition. Be careful not to over-fertilize when applying chicken litter to garden soil. Use no more than 200 pounds per 1,000 square feet of garden space. Animal manure is lower in nutrient content than poultry manure and can be applied at the rate of 250 to 300 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Overuse of manures can add so much salt to the soil that plant growth is harmed. Most organic materials release some nutrients quickly and the rest over a period of time. Even though adding organic matter improves soil fertility, manures and plant residues are not balanced fertilizers, and soils require additional fertilizer. Test soil annually to be sure.

 

Discover How Coffee Grounds Can Perk Up Your Garden
By Simone Abt

Canadian gardeners are discovering that coffee grounds offer a valuable source of nutrition for gardens.

Coffee grounds can be used in several ways. Grounds can be applied along with other materials as a side dressing for vegetables, roses, and other plants. They also make an excellent addition to the compost. Grounds can also help with worm bins. Worms fed with coffee grounds will flourish.

Gardeners can use grounds from their home coffee brewing machines, or they can stop by Starbucks to pick up a bag of complimentary coffee grounds. Starbucks offers spent grounds to customers year-round for use in gardens and compost bins.

"Coffee grounds can be a valuable source of nutrition for the garden," says Ben Packard, director of Environmental Affairs for Starbucks. "Reusing coffee grounds in the garden year-round is a great way to avoid disposing of this rich resource from our stores."

According to The Composting Council of Canada, composting not only helps to reduce the amount of waste going to landfills, it produces a valuable soil amendment that can improve the texture and fertility of the soil.

Compost is the single most important ingredient for soil quality and productivity.

Some gardeners even use the grounds to help ward off slugs and snails. The grounds can be used to mulch plants that slugs love to feast on, such as hostas, ligularias and lilies.

Coffee grounds can be applied directly to a garden's acid loving plants such as azaleas, roses or hydrangeas. While coffee grounds may be acidic, adding leaves and dried grass can reduce this acidity. Your local gardening expert can help you decide what is best for your garden

Potting Soil Recipes

Home-Style Potting Soil
1 part finished compost
1 part loose garden or commercial potting soil
1 part sharp sand, perlite, or vermiculite - or a mixture of all 3


Thalassa Cruso's Potting Soil
1 part commercial potting soil or leaf mold
1 part sphagnum or peat moss
1 part perlite or sharp sand


Rich Potting Soil
1 part leaf mold
2 parts loose garden or commercial potting soil
1 part compost or rotted, sifted manure


Amended Potting Soil
4 parts loose garden or commercial potting soil
2 parts sphagnum or peat moss
2 parts leaf mold or compost
2 parts vermiculite
6 teaspoons dolomitic limestone (the limestone helps to neutralize the acids in the leaf mold and peat moss)


52 Weekend Garden Projects 1992 by Nancy Bubel Rodale Press. Emmaus, Pennsylvania

Some Things NOT to Do

Don’t cut iris leaves after the flowers fade. Leaves carry on photosynthesis and develop nourishment for next year’s growth. Cut off brown tips and remove the flowering stalk down to the rhizome.

If you’re growing plants outdoors in containers, don’t use a soilless potting mix. Be sure that it contains at least half soil. Or make your own blend for window boxes and patio containers by mixing one part compost, one part garden soil, and one part builder’s sand.

When shopping at a nursery, don’t buy a tree or shrub with a damaged root ball. Inspect it carefully to make sure that it is uniform, not crushed, and a good size. For every inch of the trunk, the ball should be seven to eight inches in diameter.

Unless you’re working your way through knee-high grass, don’t remove those grass clippings from the lawn. Leave them where they fall to filter down to the soil, decompose, and recycle nutrients into the roots.

Watermelon Time

Watermelons are well named: They are 92 percent water. A 2-cup serving contains only 90 calories and is fat-free as well. Watermelon also is a good source of vitamins A and C.

If you grow your own watermelons this summer or buy them at the store, you’ll face the daunting task of determining their ripeness. We’ve heard all sorts of advice, including the fact that a ripe melon, when thumped, will feel more like a human head than a human chest

Garden Faeries

Create a garden that is conductive to all life.

Some crops thrive in cool weather, while others only grow well when it’s warmer. So how do you know when to plant what? The key factor that should guide your decisions is your average last spring frost date. Most cool season crops, like cabbage, broccoli, lettuce and many others, can tolerate a light frost and will grow best when sown a couple weeks before your last spring frost. Some, like peas and spinach, are so cold-hardy they can even be planted “as soon as the ground can be worked,�?as many seed packets say. But warm season crops like squash, cucumber, and basil will be killed by frost if your seeds come up too soon. Ditto for warm season transplants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants �?if you don’t wait until danger of frost has passed before you set them out, a late frost will kill them.

Thus on seed packets you often see “Plant after all danger of frost has passed.�?So, how do you find the average last spring frost date for your area? There are U.S. maps that show last frost dates, but it's hard to find your exact local dates on them. Your best bet is the National Climatic Data Center. Choose your state and then locate the city nearest you, and it will show your average last spring (and first fall) frost dates, based upon weather data collected by the National Climatic Data Center from 1971 through 2000 from that location. You can choose between a 50/50 probability of frost after the given date, or you can play it safe and choose the 90 percent date, which means there’s only a 10 percent chance of a frost after that date. The Freeze/Frost Occurrence Data charts also provide average dates for 36 degrees Fahrenheit, 32 degrees and 28 degrees; for most crops gardeners should use the 32 degree dates.

Here’s a summary of which crops to plant early, and which ones not to plant until after your last spring frost date:

Very early spring (as soon as the ground can be worked)

Early spring

• lettuce
• beets
• carrots
• radishes
• dill
• cilantro
• cabbage
• broccoli
• celery
• kale
• potatoes

After last frost date

• beans
• corn
• melons
• cucumbers
• squash
• tomatoes
• peppers
• pumpkins
• eggplant
• basil

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/How-to-Find-Average-Last-Spring-Frost-Date.aspx

Make A Coffee Can Herb Garden

by Katelyn Thomas

If you drink a lot of coffee, you probably have quite a few metal coffee cans on hand. With just a little effort, you can make a useful and pretty handmade gift for your friends and family.  

First, wash out your can and peel off any labels. Next, apply a coat of metal primer to your can. Let the primer dry thoroughly.  Then, apply a coat of bright acrylic paint to the can. 

Once your can is painted, you can decorate it. I like to apply crackle medium and then add a top coat of color. This effect is beautiful if you paint a deep blue undercoat and a rich red overcoat on your can. 

You may want to rubberstamp bugs or garden tools onto the can instead. To do this, use stamps that are flexible so that you can stamp onto the curved surface of the can. You can apply a light coat of acrylic paint to the stamp and then press the stamp onto the can, carefully rolling the stamp so that the whole image is stamped onto the can. If you mess up, don't worry. You can wipe the stamped image off the can and start over. 

Another great decorative technique for decorating cans is decoupage. Use empty seed packets with pretty artwork or cut pictures from magazines and decoupage them to the can in an attractive pattern. 

Once your can is decorated, apply a coat of sealer to the finished product. If you will use the can outside, you may want to let this coat dry and apply a second coat of sealer. 

Now, you are ready to prepare your can for planting. Turn the can upside down. Use a 3 inch nail and a hammer to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the can. Turn your can over and fill it to just an inch below the rim with good potting soil. 

Next it is time for you to decide which herbs you will be planting in your can. Chives, basil, oregano, thyme and parsley all are great choices. Of course, you can also put a lovely scented geranium in the can, instead. 

As a finishing touch, add a tag with information about caring for the herb and a few great recipes. It is easy to attach the tag with a simple florist pick. 

Finally, consider other ideas for your coffee can. For instance, instead of adding potting soil and an herb, add a garden trowel, gardening gloves, a packet of seeds, a box of tea and a package of tea biscuits for do it yourselfers

A Sunwheel Herb Garden
The Nine Sacred Herbs of Wisdom



"Then took Woden Nine Magic Twigs and then smote the serpent that he in nine dispersed. Now these nine herbs have power against nine magic outcasts against nine venoms and against nine flying things against the loathed things that over land rove."

Yes, this is the stuff of legends, but based on very real herbs and medicinal practices of the Anglo-Saxons and their contemporaries. These plants are still in use today, and most are common in Midgard. It is my intent to cover the practical basics of growing and using these nine sacred herbs, which are: Mugwort ,Waybroad (Plantain), Atterlothe (unknown), Maythen (Chamomile), Wergulu (Nettle), Crabapple ,Chervil , and Fennel .

These are just nine of the herbs of our ancestors: common plants found growing wild, discovered to have beneficial properties to mankind. Or, perhaps Woden discovered them himself and gave them to man, as he did the runes. No matter, it is honorable work to grow, harvest, and use them for the benefit and pleasure of the folk.

Designing the Garden
Whether or not you have decided on a site for your garden, survey your possibilities well. This project does require a reasonably-sized, sunny piece of land, at least 8 X 8 feet. Although if you live in an apartment, you can grow these herbs in containers on a sunny patio or balcony (but you may have to bonsai the crab apple tree!).

We know the Sunwheel as a holy symbol, which represents the daily passage of Sunna across the sky, the wheel of her chariot, and as a hallowing sign of the Vanir. How appropriate for a sacred garden dedicated to our Faith, our Gods, and the Earth, whether you call her Frigg, Jord or Erce! The Sunwheel also naturally accommodates nine herbs (or, eight and one tree) by its design. It also converts well, and can be used for a very small garden of only one or two plants of each herb, up to as large as you have the will and land to make!

Working the Earth
When you have chosen your site, don’t forget to approach the local landwights and offer them something for their good favor. Chances are they will be glad and excited about your undertaking. But you are planting a tree, which is a pretty big change to the landscape! Not to mention that Crabapple trees can grow very large, and you may need to transplant it again before it reaches its full height. Keep this in mind when choosing your spot.

If preparing this garden in early spring, you may want to incorporate it into a “Charming of the Plow�?ritual (see Field Blessing by Winifred Hodge, this issue). Due to these herbs being connected with Woden in herblore, this project would be an ideal site, garden, or harrow dedicated to the Allfather. It may be desirable to perform the actual dedication ceremony at the breaking of ground.

Getting Started
First prepare the circle of earth where your Sunwheel will be. You may need to till up grass and weeds, and clear the topsoil of any large rock particles. Check your soil type - it will need to be fairly good, and you can correct poor soil by adding the appropriate conditioners and fertilizers. Even if you have average garden soil, add compost for nutrients and tilth.

Once your soil is ready, the Sunwheel can be formed with just about any common garden marker, including bricks, railroad ties, rock, or even out of the soil itself. However, for magical purposes it is recommended to use local cut rock or hand-gathered stones or wood. It is possible to create the form based on the number nine. Simply use sequences of three or nine when placing the markers, or make sure the total number of pieces used is divisible by nine. For example, make each spoke of the Sunwheel and each quadrant of the Sunwheel rim out of three rocks, or nine.

Begin planting your herbs after the last frost, which usually falls in March or April, depending on your region. The garden needs to receive full sun, which is at least four to five hours of direct sunlight daily.

The Herbs
Crabapple - There the Apple accomplished it against poison that she (the loathsome serpent) would never dwell in the Middle Garth.

Crabapple is a tree, of course, and not really an herb. However, the modern definition of an herb is any plant with common use, be it culinary, medicinal, household, or magical. As the only tree, the Crabapple should obviously be planted in the center of the Sunwheel.

Order the tree from a nursery, at about one year of age. There are many different varieties, just be sure you get one that produces fruit. Check its hardiness in your area. Most nurseries and mail order companies have a zone chart which will identify how well your tree will do in your area. If you are not sure, go to a local nursery and ask. Most people don’t grow Crabapples for fruit anymore, but they may have Crabapples in stock, or can order them for you.

Soak the roots of the tree in water with fish emulsion fertilizer, available at most garden or home supply warehouses. Mix the fertilizer as recommended, usually one teaspoon fish emulsion per gallon water for transplants. (Do this for all transplanted plants.) Dig a hole in the center of the Sunwheel about one foot in diameter, and the same in depth. Place the roots in the hole at a depth which will just cover the roots, but do not encroach up the trunk very high. Just barely cover the “root ball�?at the base of the trunk, from which the roots start to extend. Cover the roots with soil, pack down lightly, and water well. Crabapple will sap the ground of nutrients, so you will need to fertilize the garden regularly.

You will likely need to prune the tree, especially if it has been shipped. Cut off any broken branches or bows with pruning shears. Additionally, you will need to yearly prune the branches back in late summer, and for instructions I will refer you to Tree Planting Day, by Charles Spratling (this issue) and Rodale’s Organic Garden Answers for Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs, which has a very good section on pruning bearing trees.

Unfortunately, there is not much support in herblore for the common, lowly Crabapple. It is not touted medicinally, nor for its fruit, which is nearly too bitter for the palate. However, it is of note that there is archaeological evidence for the consumption of Crabapples in Early England, and compensation for a Crabapple tree in Anglo-Saxon times was 30 pence. Crabapples make a fine jam, and have been used to flavor mead. For mead, or more technically melomel, peel and seed the Crabapples and then boil in water to a mush. Add plenty of sugar to taste, and cinnamon if you like, and then steep in the honey wort.

Fennel - Chervil and Fennel, two very mighty ones. They were created by the wise one-eyed Lord, holy in Asgard as he hung on the tree; He set and sent them to the nine worlds, to the wretched and the fortunate, as a help to all.

Common Fennel, Foeniculum Vulgare, is a hardy perennial in temperate regions, but may be grown as an annual where winters are harsh. It is sown readily from seed, and can also be purchased as a young plant from most nurseries. To grow from seed, sow directly in the garden 15 inches apart, or sow early indoors inflats, and transplant after the last frost. Fennel will grow almost anywhere, but prefers a well-drained, alkaline soil. Depending on your soil type, you may wish to add bonemeal, lime or ash in the area you will be planting it.

Fennel grows very large, up to six feet, and needs to be planted towards the center of the garden, behind the smaller plants, and may overshadow the Crabapple the first year or two. If you are cultivating a smaller garden, one or two plants is all you will need.

Fennel’s small, yellow flowers will be seen in June and July, and will set seed in late summer. Unless you wish it to re-seed voluntarily, collect the seed heads at maturity, when they harden and turn brown. In the fall cut it back to the ground, and it should send out new shoots in the following spring. Or you can dig up the root, which can been eaten as a vegetable, and sow new seed the following year.

Fennel has a strong, licorice-like scent, and can be used medicinally and in cooking. Fennel seed, bruised and boiled in water, and then added to syrup and soda water will relieve flatulence in infants. The herbalist Nicholas Culpeper relates a common use of it, its seed or leaves boiled in barley water and then drunk by nursing mothers to increase their milk and its quality for the infant. In Lacnunga, Fennel is used in charms against all manner of ill-meaning wights, from elves to sorcerers, and even against insanity. An infusion of the leaves or crushed seeds will ease flatulence and increase appetite in adults, and should be drunk three times a day.

Chervil - There are two plants commonly known as Chervil: Sweet Chervil, or Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) and French Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium). The first is native to the British Isles, and likely to be the chervil of the Anglo-Saxons, and therefore will be the herb discussed here. French Chervil’s use is primarily culinary, but is an adequate substitute for Myrrhis odorata in your garden, as these herbs are often mistaken for one another. Additionally, if you live in an arid region, French Chervil may prove the hardier herb.

Sweet Cicely is found in mountainous regions, and prefers a rocky, well-drained soil. A hardy perennial, it is best cultivated from root or plant, but can be grown from seed. It can reach two to three feet in height, and should be planted towards the center of the Sunwheel, not quite one foot apart. Its aromatic foliage is similar to Anise or Lovage, and its small white flowers attract bees.

The entire plant is edible. John Gerard, garden keeper to Queen Elizabeth, reports its leaves and roots were commonly eaten in salads in his day, and it is said that Chervil comforts the heart and increases a lust for life. Culpeper states that Chervil provokes menstruation, which may be why this herb is considered a valuable tonic for adolescent girls. Chervil tea is also an effective relief for bronchitis and sinusitis, being a useful tonic for the mucous membranes. Along with Fennel, Chervil was created by the wise Lord, a phrase to which I like to add one-eyed.

Mugwort - Remember, Mugwort, what you made known, what you arranged. You were called Una, the oldest of herbs, you have power against three and against thirty, you have power against poison and against infection, you have power against the loathsome serpent encircling the Middle Garth.

I think Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) is the herb best known to Heathens, due to its aid in the second sight and Seidh working. The dried herb is often burned as recels, and has an odor very similar to Cannabis. Mugwort is not intoxicating, however, but does act as a nervine, and is helpful against depression and tension.

Mugwort is grown from seed, and can be purchased as a young plant at most herbal nurseries. Seeds can be sown directly in the garden, about one foot apart, or sown in flats early indoors and transplanted. It grows up to three feet in height, more in an ideal growing environment. It thrives in ordinary, well-drained garden soil, and is related to Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). In common to that plant, Mugwort can be used dried as an insect repellent, but is not as strong as Wormwood, lacking its volatile oil. Mugwort will re-seed readily, and should be cut to the ground in late autumn. The plant is a hardy perennial, and will come back in the Spring in most areas.

Mugwort also stimulates the digestive system, and will help aid a normal menstrual flow. It can be taken as a tea of the dried or fresh leaves, or in aperitifs or tincture (alcohol extraction). To prepare a tincture, bruise and soak fresh leaves in grain alcohol, preferably vodka, for two weeks, agitating daily. Strain the mixture, and store tincture in a closed, glass jar or bottle in a dark, cool location. When properly stored, the tincture should keep indefinitely.

Atterlothe - Put to flight now, Venom-loather, the greater poisons, though you are the lesser, you the mightier, conquer the lesser poisons, until he is cured of both.

Unfortunately, the identity of this herb is not certain. Storms suggests *****’s Spur Grass, a name which reminds me of *****eburr, or common Agrimony. However Agrimony is known in Lacnunga as Garclife and Egrimonie. But Atterlothe is translated to mean venom loather. I think it is a fair assumption that, lacking the absolute identity of this herb, we may make an appropriate substitution based on its magical function and meaning.

Eleanour Sinclair Rohde in The Old English Herbals states that the Saxons attributed the source of all ill to the Great Worm, or the World Serpent. She uses examples of Saxon literature, including the Nine Herb Charm, to support this. Additionally, the Leech Book of Bald, a later medicinal text, is mentioned as ascribing even minor ailments to the presence of a worm. While I think this is a gross simplification, it is noteworthy to consider the World Serpent as the enemy of Midgard, and therefore mankind, and the potential spiritual source for disease.

In keeping with this, I propose Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) as an appropriate substitute for Atterlothe. Although Wormwood was known to the Anglo-Saxons as Wermod, its strong benefit to the body, and its anthelmintic properties, make it ideal in place of Atterlothe. Wormwood was the original main ingredient in Absinthe, which proved deadly for the habitual drinker. But the euphoria and madness associated with it certainly brings Woden to mind, and again reassures its place in this garden. Wormwood also is used as a nervine to soothe a nervous temperament, just the thing to calm a berserker down!

Wormwood can be grown from seed, but viability of the seed (chance that it will germinate) is fairly low. It can be purchased as a seedling from most herb nurseries, or propagated by root division. It is a hardy perennial, grows two to three feet high, and prefers a well-drained, sunny position.

Wormwood should be used carefully in medicine, despite its general benefit to man. An infusion (tea) of the leaves taken three times a day will stimulate the digestive system, treat indigestion, and help the body deal with fever and infections. This historical use is confirmed in Lacnunga in charms against Typhoid and Chicken Pox. The powdered herb may be taken in capsule to expel worms, and is particularly effective against roundworms and pinworms. For pets, vary the dosage accordingly, starting with 1/8 teaspoon of the dried herb, and increase as needed.

Chamomile - Remember Chamomile, what you made known, what you accomplished at Alorford, that never a man should lose his life from infection, after Chamomile was prepared for his food.

Chamomile, like Balder who is associated with it, is probably the best-loved herb. Its small, white flowers and sweet-apple scent endear it to anyone who comes in contact with it. It is pristine and pure, as well as useful in the medicine chest.

There are several varieties of Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita), Roman (Anthemis nobilis), and Dyer’s Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria). For tea, German Chamomile is the best choice, and it is this variety to be discussed here. However, Roman Chamomile is a perennial, unlike German, and may be a better choice to grow in the Southwestern States, as it will tolerate an arid climate. Its flowers may also be used for tea, but it will produce less of them. Obviously, Dyer’s Chamomile is what you want if you wish to produce a beautiful yellow dye.

German Chamomile is an annual, grown readily from seed, and can grow up to a foot in height. Place this herb towards the rim of the Sunwheel, in front of the taller herbs. The seed can be scattered in the garden after the last frost, or again grown in flats indoors and transplanted. It will do fine in ordinary garden soil, and needs regular watering.

Chamomile has long been known as a sedative, and is one of the few, true alterative nervines. This means it regulates the nervous system - sedative in the case of anxiety or insomnia, and stimulant in case of depression or malaise. The tea relieves flatulence and gastritis, and used externally, Chamomile will speed wound healing and reduce swelling.

Gather the flowers in the summer, and dry by spreading them thinly on a screen or cookie sheet in a warm, dry area where they will not be disturbed. Store in air-tight containers. Be sure to leave a few flower heads on the plants, so that you can gather the very tiny seed in late autumn for planting the next spring.

Plantain - And you, Plaintain, mother of herbs, open from the east, mighty inside. Over you chariots creaked, over you queens rode, over you brides cried out, over you bulls snorted. You withstood all of them, you dashed against them. May you likewise withstand poison and infection, and the loathsome serpent encircling the Middle Garth.

Common Plantain (Plantago major) is a perennial, growing as a weed in most of the northern hemisphere. It can be cultivated by seed or rhizome, and is so proliferous it is best not to let it re-seed voluntarily. If it is not native to your region, it can be difficult to find. I was lucky to meet a lady in Oregon who was kind enough to send me some seeds from her weeds , but a few herb nurseries are starting to offer it.

Plantain grows very low to the ground, with large, broad leaves. It will survive anywhere, but needs regular rain or watering to thrive. Sow the seed directly in the garden, towards the rim of the Sunwheel, in front of the taller herbs. You can sow the seed in flats indoors and then transplant, but it really is a waste of energy. Harvest the whole, fresh leaves for use. When dried, Plantain loses much of its properties in its juice. The seeds have little benefit, with the exception of their use as a substitute for Linseed.

Gerard exclaims the juice of Plantain dropped in the eyes will cool inflammation, and Culpeper states that eating a little bit of the root will cure a headache instantly. Plantain is a useful astringent, and when taken as a tea it will aid against diarrhea. Plantain will also staunch external bleeding when applied in a salve, or simply bruised and applied to a minor wound. For a simple Plantain salve, crush the leaves and mix well with lard, and apply. An interesting parallel, both the Anglo-Saxons and the Native Americans valued Plantain against a snake bite, applied externally.

Nettle - This is the herb that is called Wergulu. A seal sent it across the sea-ridge, a vexation to poison, a help to others. It stands against pain, it dashes against poison, it has power against three and against thirty, against the hand of a fiend and against mighty devices, against the spell of mean creatures.

Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) was brought to the British Isles by the Roman Legions, who would rub their arms with the leaves to keep their blood flowing in the cold, damp weather. Nettle strengthens and supports the entire body, and can even be cooked and eaten as a pot herb, like mustard greens or spinach. Itis another common weed, reaches up to three feet in height, and is a hardy perennial. It can be grown by seed, and may be difficult to find in nurseries.

To grow Nettles, sow the seed directly in place in the garden, about one foot apart. Like Plantain, it will grow anywhere, but prefers regular watering and ordinary garden soil. Nettle will take over the garden if you let it, so be sure to collect the flower heads before they set seed. The plant will readily return in the spring from its creeping roots. Also, keep the roots under control by regularly digging around the area where they are planted. Or, sink garden bed bordering underground around the area to prevent the unwanted spread of its roots.

To gather fresh Nettle leaves, wear gardening gloves! If you are stung by its stinging hairs, rub the area with Rosemary, Mint or Sage leaves for relief. Collect the leaves when the flowers are blooming. Nettle is used for everything from the stimulation of hair growth to eczema, and may be used as an astringent externally for nose bleeds. Additionally, there are recipes for Nettle Beer and Nettle Pudding.

For Nettle Beer, in a large pot add 2 gallons of cold water, 5 cups of washed, young Nettle leaves, 2 cups each of Dandelion leaves and Horehound or Meadowsweet flowers, and 2 ounces of bruised ginger root. Boil gently for 40 minutes, then strain and stir in 1 1/2 cups of brown sugar. When cooled to lukewarm temperature, toast a slice of bread and spread with one cube of fresh yeast. Float the bread yeast side up on the top of the mixture, cover and allow to ferment for 24 hours. At the end of this time, open and remove the residue from the top of the beer. Add 1 tablespoon of cream of tartar. Bottle as you would an ale.

Watercress Stune is the name of this herb, it grew on a stone, it stands up against poison, it dashes against pain. Unyielding it is called, it drives out the hostile one, it casts out poison, it has the power against infection. This is the herb that fought against the world serpent.

Although Lacnunga refers to Lamb’s Cress (lombescyrse) as one of the Nine Sacred Herbs, which Storms differentiates from Watercress (eacerse or wyllecerse) as Cardamine, Gerard assures us that Watercress, or Nasturtium officinale, is also referred to as Cardamine. Although there may be a minor difference in varieties, it is safe to assume that these plants are very similar if not one and the same. Considering that Gerard’s Herbal was published in 1597 C.E., one thousand years from the estimated date of Lacnunga (587 C.E.), this name may have been commonly attributed to a different herb during that time. However, Gerard’s one thousand year gap is certainly preferable to Storm’s fourteen hundred year gap.

Watercress is a perennial but is typically grown as an annual, prefers a moist habitat, and naturally occurs near springs, creeks and rivers. It is cultivated by seed, sown directly in the garden or in flats indoors, and then transplanted after the last frost. Watercress is a small, creeping plant, so place near the rim of the Sunwheel, in front of taller plants. Gather the seeds in the fall for replanting in the spring, or allow to re-seed itself. Water it daily in summer.

Watercress is commonly eaten in salads and soups, and is the primary ingredient in that favorite English Tea-time snack, Watercress sandwiches. Although not in common use medicinally, Grieve reports its use against tuberculosis during her time. Culpeper advises the bruised leaves to be placed directly on the skin tocombat freckles, pimples and other skin ailments. Watercress is an excellent diuretic, rivaled only by the Dandelion.

Other Herbs of Note
Houseleek Also known as Thor’s Beard, Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum) planted in a pot and placed on the roof will protect a house from lightning. This plant is known as Hens and Chicks in the United States.

Cowslip or Primrose (Primula vulgaris) is associated with Freya, and it is said to open the door to her hall or mound. A wash of Cowslip water will improve the complexion.

Woodruft A sprig of Sweet Woodruff (Asperula odorata) steeped in Rhine Wine for a few hours is all it takes to make May Wine, a common beverage at Walpurgis.

Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is the plant that gives us linen and linseed oil, and has been used since ancient times. The fiber is traditionally spun and woven for clothing. Flax is under the dominion of Holda, possibly another name for Frigg, who taught us the art of growing Flax, of spinning, and of weaving it.

Angelica (Angelica archangelica) was said to be revealed by the Archangel Michael as a cure for the plague. More interestingly, Grieve recounts the remnant of an old Lithuanian Pagan custom of the peasants marching into towns carrying Angelica flower stems and offering them for sale. Angelica is associated with Heimdall, used in warding, and the stems are still commonly boiled in sugar-water for a confection.

Periwinkle (Vinca minor), the “Joy of the Ground�? was used against witchcraft and sorcery in Medieval times, and therefore is of excellent protection against ill-meaning wights of all kinds (including people). The contradiction, and perhaps explanation, is that it was also called Sorcerer’s Violet. What better to fight sorcery with than sorcery?

Soil Mix for Containers

1 part peat moss
1 part rich garden soil or potting soil
1 part sand

With a trowel, mix the ingredients in a bucket or wheelbarrow until well blended.

Use for outdoor potted vegetables or flowers