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Wildcrafting Your Herbs
Wildcrafting is becoming ever more popular as many people choose
wild herbs over ones that have been refined and developed for the
marketplace. Personally, I believe that herbs gathered from the wild
have more power and inherent healing qualities. Furthermore,
gathering herbs in this way is a productive step towards fostering our relationship with Mother Earth. It is essential, therefore, to perform this task in synchronization with nature and avoid further destruction to our ecosystems.
All around the world, corporate interests and careless individuals,
who see the value of the land only in terms of how it can be
exploited for its resources, endanger our environment.
The Earth, which once provided valuable botanical medicines
seemingly without end, is facing a serious crisis. Our natural
resources are nearing exhaustion from careless depletion. We must
act now to help preserve our natural resources before many rare
medicinal plant species disappear forever. I am also concerned about governmental agencies that, working hand in hand with major pharmaceutical companies, seek proposals to license all herbal
remedies. They claim this is for our safety. However, in my opinion,
the real reason for these laws is to protect corporate interest from
losing market share as more people turn to herbal remedies and limit
their, intake of pharmaceutical drugs.
Wildcrafting is the most direct way of getting in touch with the
healing powers of Mother Earth. Moreover, by learning to wildcraft,
you can be assured that you may always find the herbs you need in
nature, should the government step in and take away .our ability to
purchase these natural remedies.
Following are some simple guidelines to help you get started
wildcrafting.
l. Study the environment before you begin gathering any herbs. Does
it look pure and healthy, or is it diseased or polluted by chemicals?
2. Wildcrafting is a spiritual activity. Therefore, remember to ask
the plant spirits for permission before you take them. Also, it is
important to give something back in the way of an offering. For
instance, traditional indigenous people offer wild mountain tobacco
as a gift to the healing spirits of the earth. You may also offer
copper coins, seeds, or a prayer of gratitude and thanksgiving while
you are harvesting.
3. It is best to never take more than you need. Keep in mind that
others may also require the herbs that you are gathering. Moreover,
please consider that animals and insects help with pollination and
seed distribution and may also rely on the plants you are harvesting
for food.
4. Handle the plants gently and respectfully. Never touch the plants
with metal, other than a knife or scissors to sever the plants or
the leaves and bark from the rest of the plant. It is best to wear
gloves and use your hands. Papers, or cloth made from natural fiber,
make the best containers for transport, and your cookware should be
constructed of wood, enamel, glass, or stoneware.
5. Be aware of the dangers of herbs. Misidentification, mislabeling,
misinformation, and self-medication without a diagnosis from a
qualified practitioner can place you in harm's way. Some herbs are
poisonous; others may make you deathly ill.
6. Learn to correctly identify the plants you wish to harvest. Your
local museum may have a herbarium, where many different kinds of
plants have been collected and pressed. You can choose to take a
course in botany at your local night school or college, or buy a
book that will guide you in identifying herbs and flowers. There are
also many websites that have pictures and descriptionsm of herbs.
Once you begin your wildcrafting, here are some additional things
you should keep in mind:
Collect your herbs in dry weather.Grow your herbs in organic soil.
Use crushed kelp or organic compost to feed the plants. Be sure to
include some well-rotted straw manure or shredded leaves in the mix.
Annuals, plants that complete their growth in one growing season,
should be cut to the ground.
Biennials, which require two growing seasons, should be cut about
halfway down.
Perennials, which die back seasonally and produce new growth, should
also be cut about halfway down.
Leaves should be collected in the early morning on a clear dry day,
because this is when the fragrant oils are at their greatest
strength.
Flowers are best used medicinally when they have just opened.
Barks may be gathered in the spring or fall when the plant is at
least two years old. Age bark for about two years before using.
Seeds must be gathered as soon as they are ripe and fully developed.
Dry your herbs by tying them in small bunches and hanging them
upside down in a warm dry place. Or wrap the herbs loosely in
newspaper, tying a string around the middle of the paper, and hang
them in a warm dry room or closet. The herbs will be dry in a few
days.
Never store dried herbs in plastic. Instead use glass jars or
bottles, and keep them in the rerefrigerator or a cooldark place. Do
not use plants that have been sprayed withinsecticides or tampered
with in any way. Sprayed plants can poison you if used in teas or
ointments
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Mixing and Storing Herbs and Spices
Dried herbs are stronger in flavour than fresh leaf herbs. To
convert dry to fresh measurements, use approximately 3 tablespoons
fresh to each tablespoon dry. In most cases use 1/3 to ¼ the amount
of dried herbs as is called for fresh. In general ¼ teaspoon of
spice is enough for 4 servings.
Mixing Herbs - when seasoning with herbs and spices try to
complement your dish by not overwhelming the flavour of the food.
Cooking spices for too long may result in overly strong flavours.
For long-cooking dishes, such as soups and stews add herbs and
spices an hour or less before serving. For best results try crushing
the herbs before adding to your dish. For shorter cooking-dishes try
adding dry spices earlier in cooking. Fresh spices and herbs should
be added towards the end of cooking.
Unless the recipe specifically calls for it, don't use more than
three herbs and spices in any one dish. The exception to this rule
is East Indian cooking, which often calls for 10 or more different
spices in one curry dish.
Try replacing herbs and spices called for in recipes with something
different - such as Marjoram instead of Oregano, Savory instead of
Thyme, Cilantro instead of Parsley, Anise seed instead of Fennel.
Mixing herbs and spices will provide you with greater creativity in
food preparation by allowing you to create a variety of exciting and
uniquely seasoned dishes. You may just create a recipe that will be
one of a kind, beloved by everyone.
Storing Herbs - store spices in a cool, dark, dry place. Heat,
humidity, and excessive light will result in the dry herbs and
spices losing their flavour more quickly. A good way to store herbs
and spices is in small, airtight glass containers. If stored
properly, dried herbs and ground spices will retain their flavour
for a year. Whole spices may last for 3 to 5 years. To keep larger
quantities of herbs and spices fresh, store them in tightly sealed
containers in the freezer.
Do not store dry herbs and spices near any humid source, such as
sinks, dishwashers, kettles, coffee makers, on counter tops, stoves
or microwaves. Avoid storing dry herbs and spices inside the
refrigerator due to the high humid environment. Avoid storing near
heat sources such as stoves, top of microwaves and refrigerators.
For best results grind whole spices in a grinder or mortar & pestle.
If you want to enhance the whole spice flavour, try roasting the
whole spice in a dry skillet over a medium heat, being careful not
to burn them.
Drying Herbs - try drying herbs on racks, slats or upside down by
their stems. For best drying, place your herbs in a well ventilated,
dry, cool environment. Ensure that you have plenty of air space and
turn every few days. Another alternative to drying is using the
microwave by laying the herbs out on absorbent paper and cooking on
low for 3 minutes. A dehydrator is also another excellent option.
Harvesting Herbs - the best time to pick the leaves or flower buds
is when they start to unfurl. Try to harvest your herbs early in the
day and before noon at the latest, as the herbs are most potent
then. Seeds must be collected when they turn brown and brittle.
Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions
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HOW TO WASH HERBS
Wash herbs when you are ready to use them. Wash smaller amounts
of herbs thoroughly under running water. Shake off moisture or
spin dry in a salad spinner. Pat off any remaining moisture
with clean paper towels.
If you're washing a larger amount of herbs at one time, treat
them as you would salad greens. Place in a clean sink or deep
bowl filled with cold water and swish around. Lift from the
water and transfer to another bowl so dirt and grit remain in
the water. Pour out the water and repeat the washing process in
clean water until dirt and grit are gone and the water is
clear.
NOTE: If you plan to harvest a large amount of herbs from a
home garden, consider washing them down with a hose the day
before to help remove any large particles of dirt or grit that
might be on the leaves.
Annual herbs can be harvested down to about four inches tall
and they still will regrow for use later in the season. For
perennial herbs, don't take off more than a third of the plant
at any given time |
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Trees, the Lungs of the Planet
Trees
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Lungs of the Planet
Trees are a very important part of our landscape and lifestyle. We make very good use of them in a variety of ways. Shade on a hot sunny day to provider of fresh fruit, lumber and the basic material of paper, but did you know they are considered the lungs of the planet. They keep our air supply fresh by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing oxygen. Acting as an enormous "carbon sink", trees soak up carbon dioxide from the air, producing life-giving oxygen in return.
In one year, a single tree can absorb as much carbon as is produced by a car driven 26,000 miles. In a tree, 'breathing' takes place in the leaf. Chlorophyll (the substance causing the green colour) absorbs the CO2 and uses it along with water to dissolve minerals taken up through the roots. After the chemical reaction is completed, the leaf releases oxygen and water vapor through its pores. One tree produces nearly 118 kg (260 pounds) of oxygen each year. One acre of trees removes up to 2.34 tons (2.6 tons) of carbon dioxide each year.
Defying gravity & outperforming mechanical pumps There are two ways that a tree can take in water: through the leaves and through the roots. They absorb small amounts of moisture from the air through
their leaves and their bark. Most of their water, however, comes via the roots. To carry the great amounts of water needed to the leaves, a tree is equipped with a circulation system of amazing intricacy that extends from the millions of root hairs through the trunks and the branches to the hundreds of thousands of leaves. In the case of the Giant Sequoia of California, this means that some of the water collected by the roots must travel a distance of nearly 450 feet (this measurement includes estimated root size! to get to the highest leaves of the tallest trees.This seems to contradict a basic law of physics.
To raise water that high requires a pressure of about 420 pounds per square inch. However, atmospheric pressure at sea level is only about 15 pounds to the square inch, and this limits the height that a suction pump can raise water to a mere 33 feet. Not only does the tree attain the tremendous pressure required, but it does so with a speed of flow so great that in certain trees water rises at the speed of almost 150 feet an hour. Trees improve water quality by slowing and filtering rain water as well as protecting aquifers and watersheds. We need to protect our forests, not just for their beauty and habitat for plants, fauna and animals but the breath of life they give us.
Did You Know
Trees are the longest living organisms on earth General Sherman a giant redwood sequoia of California is about 84 m (275 ft) high with a girth of 8m (25 ft) The cottonwood tree seed is so light, it can be carried on the air for several days. The world's tallest tree is a coast redwood in California, measuring more than 110 m (360 ft). The world's oldest trees are 4,600 year old Bristlecone pines in the USA. A mature birch tree can produce up to 1 million seeds per year.A mature oak tree can draw up to 190 litres (50 gallons) or more of water per day. Amazing trees:
Africa has the Baobabs with enormous trunks that are living water towers topped with a few wizened limbs. A good specimen is capable of storing more than 25.000 gallons. Some are up to three thousand years old With age these great trees will often become hollow and have been known to be used as houses. There was one famous tree, which was used as a bus stop and could shelter as many as 30 waiting people from the burning sun. The Ada Tree of Australia is 72 m (236 ft) high and has a 15.4 m (50 ft) girth and a root system that takes up more than an acre. Australian Bottle Trees an withstands temperatures of -10 C.(14 F) to +50 C (122 F) in it's natural habitat.
Diesel Tree
In the Amazon there is the diesel tree Copaiba Langsdorfii, that produces a sap which is so similar to diesel that it can be poured straight into a truck's fuel tank. The Serendipity berry is 3000 times sweeter than sucrose. In spite of this it has a lower calorie content.Africa's sausage tree smells like a mouse; this compels bats to pollinate it.
Paper consumption
In Canada an acre of forest is cut every 12.9 seconds. Trees logged from Canadain a single year, would fill more than 4.300.000 logging trucks; lined up bumper to bumper they would be long enough to encircle the world 2½ times. Paper consumption in the 20th century continues to increase. Do we really want to shred up the lungs of the Earth to receive yet more unwanted junk-mail to our homes? Think about this when you use paper |
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Finding The Age Of Trees
First measure the diameter of the trunk at breast height (in inches), and then multiply it by the number listed on the table below.
2 .5 for chestnut, white elm, and the tulip tree 3 for black walnut 3.5 for black oak 4 for birch, sweet gum, chestnut-oak; red oak, scarlet oak, and sycamore. 5 for ash and white oak 6 for beech, sour gum, and sugar maple 8 for the shag bark hickory |
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Equipment You Will Need for Herbal Dyeing From: Growing Herbs & Plants for Dyeing By: Betty E.M. Jacobs Equipment you will need: 1. Collect rain water. If you can't collect rain water, use a water softener such as "Calgon." Follow the directions on the water softener. You can also use vinegar and then test the water using litmus paper to see that the water is "neutral." 2. Enamel or stainless steel pans, large enough to hold 4 1/2 gal. of water AND the material you'll be dyeing (usually wool) with room left over for stirring. 3. Buckets or bowl for rinsing. These can be plastic because these don't have to be heated. 4. Measuring spoons and measuring cups (2 and 4 cup sizes) 5. A container that holds 2 gallons of liquid. 6. Fine strainers to remove plant material from liquid dye. 7. Sticks for stirring, preferrably smooth sticks so you don't get splinters. 8. A thermometer that goes to at least 212 dgrees. 9. Rubber gloves. 10.Accurate scales that will measure from the smllest amount of 1/4 oz or 5 grams. 11.Clothes line, in the shade. 12.Kitchen stove. Or you will need some means of heating the containers in which you are dyeing. THE MORDANTS ALUM (potassium aluminum sulfate) is the most common mordant. If you are not sure what you want to do, mordant with alum, and use the others as additives. Alum does not effect color. It is usually used with cream of tartar, which helps evenness and brightens slightly. Three ounces of alum and one of cream of tartar is a good start; if you have heavy wool, use four ounces of alum. Too much alum makes wool sticky. Alum mordanted wool stores well, wet or dry. IRON (ferrous sulfate) is called copperas. It will sadden or darken colors, bringing out green shades. Usually wool is dyed BEFORE mordanting with iron. Simmer dye-bath for ½ hour, remove wool, and add ½ ounce of iron and one ounce of cream of tartar to pot. Dissolve thoroughly then re-enter wool. Simmer ½ hour more. Rinse well (remember to cool slowly-see above); too much iron will harden wool and make it streak. TIN (stannous chloride) blooms or brightens colors, especially reds, oranges and yellows. Almost always used with cream of tartar �?½ ounce tin and 1-2 ounces of cream of tartar for a pound of wool. Simmer for an hour and rinse in soapy water before dyeing. Tin is a good additive mordant. Store wool wet or dry. Too much tin makes wool brittle. It is caustic, be sure to handle carefully and clean up thoroughly. BLUE VITRIOL (copper sulfate) saddens colors and brings out greens. It is a good additive. Used alone, one ounce will mordant a pound of wool. Rinse fiber well, store wet or dry. Blue vitriol is poisonous. TANNIC ACID is a good mordant if you want tans or browns, or for cotton or linen (vegetable fibers). One ounce per pound of wool, simmer for an hour. Wool mordanted with tannic acid before dyeing tends to darken with age. GLAUBER'S SALTS are a leveling agent, not a mordant. Add ½ cup to your dye-bath to prevent streaking. Color will change slightly. Wool dyed to slightly different shades with the same dyestuff can be brought to a more even color with Glauber's salts. Add one cup of Glauber's salts to your dye-bath, dissolve, add soaked wool and simmer for ½ to one hour, until the different shades have blended into uniformity. The final color will be a little duller. | | © Earth Guild (You may reproduce this if it is unaltered and our name stays on it.) | MORDANTING FOR NATURAL DYEING There are two kinds of natural dyes: substantive and adjective. SUBSTANTIVE dyes (lichens and walnut hulls, for instance) need no mordants to help them adhere to the fiber. ADJECTIVE dyes do. The mordant joins with the fiber and the dye to set the color permanently. It enters deeply into the fiber, and when the dye is added, they combine to form a color; since the mordant is thoroughly embedded, so is the color. This is the principle behind the process. Adjective dyestuffs are not able to penetrate the wool enough to keep from washing or fading away—unless a mordant is used. CAUTIONS
Keep mordants out of reach of kids, animals and weird adults. Mordants are not all poisonous, but why risk trouble? Store them safely away when they aren't in use. Don't breathe in the fumes while you are mordanting. NEVER use the same pots for cooking and dyeing. GENERAL RULES FOR MORDANTING
All recipes here are for one pound of wool. Wool is the easiest to dye; cotton and linen are possible too, but the process will be more complicated and the results may be less pleasing and/or permanent. Halve or double mordant amounts to prepare half or twice as much wool. Use a non-reactive pot—enamel (unchipped) or stainless steel. Brass, copper or iron pots will do their own mordanting, providing special effects you may not care for. Wool is more easily dyed as fleece or as yarn wound in skeins. In either form it must be clean (commercial yarn usually already is); dirt will repel the mordant and later on the dye. Tie skeins (tight knot, loose loop) in four places to prevent tangles. If the loop is too snug, you will have tie-dyed yarn. It is possible to dye wool as fabric, but hard to do it evenly. Soak wool for several hours, to ensure even take-up. NEVER put dry fiber into a mordant- or dye-pot unless you want streaks. Fill a large enough pot with enough water to not crowd the fiber. Add the mordant and dissolve completely, stirring with a clean stick or glass rod. Bring the bath to room temperature and add the wet wool. Bring to a simmer and hold there for an hour. DO NOT BOIL. Stir occasionally VERY SLOWLY & GENTLY. (HEAT and AGITATION cause FELTING. Remove pot from heat and let cool—preferably over night. Remove wool from pot. It is ready to be dyed or it may be stored wet or dry, for later dyeing. Some people think mordanted wool will take dye better after it has sat for a while. Wet wool has been stored successfully for up to six weeks. Ventilate it and turn it to prevent mold. If you store your mordanted wool dry, be sure to soak it well before dyeing. Please see our "Natural Dyeing" instructions for further information.
|  | Weigh out the fiber.
Place the fiber in a pot of warm water with detergent and simmer for one hour. | | | | | | Drain and rinse. | | | | | | Weigh out 10% alum and 5% tartaric acid of the dry fiber weight.
Combine in a glass jar with warm water to dissolve. | | | | | | In a large dyepot, heat enough water to cover the fiber to 120.
Add alum mixture.
Mix thoroughly.
Add the warm, wetted fiber to the dyebath
Bring the dyebath slowly up to 190 and simmer at about one hour.
Remove the dyepot from heat and let the fiber cool in the bath for one hour. | | | | | | Wash and rinse. |
| | Tips on mordanting: | | | | | | Always pre-wash your fiber in washing soda to move any grease or sizing left in from the animal or the manufacturer. In a large pot of hot water, add one spoonful of soda, stir until dissolved and then add the fiber. Boil for about one hour and rinse thoroughly.
When mordanting, start with warm water and slowly raise the temperature to just below boiling. By doing this, air in and around the fiber is expelled and the fiber is softened. Make sure the fiber is thoroughly wetted before you immerse it any bath. This will ensure a smooth uptake of the bath and prevent splotches.
Always start your mordant or dye in a small jar of water then, when fully dissolved or after a overnight soak, add it to the pot.
Make sure that there is ample room in the pot. Move the fiber around several times to make sure the fiber is dyed evenly. Let the fiber cool in the bath, rinse then squeeze gently to remove excess water and hang to dry or while still wet, use the fiber immediately.
Chrome: This gives wonderful deep, rich colors. You have to be more careful with it, than the alum, to avoid uneven coloring later on. Adding cream of tartar will help brighten the colors even more. Use 1/2 oz. of chrome with 4 gallons of water, to 1 pound of fabric or yarn. Heat the water to 160°, and remember to pre-dissolve the chrome in warm water first. Put your wet, washed fabric in the bath and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the fabric, add 1/2 oz of cream of tartar (pre-dissolved) stir thoroughly, replace the fabric and simmer for 1 hour. Be careful to keep the fabric totally under the water in the bath, or when you do dye your fabric it will streak.. Wash the fabric after mordanting in the chrome & allow it to dry slowly, before dyeing. If you're going to be dyeing the fabric lighter colors, you can use a bit less chrome. Too much will result in a harsher feel to the fabric. Chemical name: potassium bichromate. Tin: The most difficult of all the mordants metallics to use. Too much will destroy your fabric or yarn. Its greatest use is as an aid to other mordants, with bright, crisp yellows & reds resulting. As an actual mordant, use 1/2 oz. tin, with 2 oz. cream of tartar and 3/4 oz. oxalic acid - to one pound fabric or yarn in 4 gallons of water. Heat the water to 140°, put in the wet, washed fabric and raise the temperature of the bath to 190°. Hold at that level for 1 hour. Do Not Boil. Chemical name: stannous chloride, tin crystals. Oxalic acid is Oxalic wood sorrel, a bleaching or cleaning agent - very strong acid. Iron - (ferrous sulfate)
Iron is referred to as a saddener, as it grays the color. It is also harsh on fibers, so be sure to rinse well when you are finished. It is directly to the dye bath near the end of the dying process. Use 1/2 oz. or less of iron and 1 oz. cream of tartar dissolved in boiling water for each pound of wool. At the end of the dye process, remove the wool, and stir in the iron solution. Return the wool to the bath and simmer for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the color you want. Allow dye bath to cool, then rinse thoroughly in several changes of water. Squeeze and press in toweling to remove excess solution, then hang in shade to dry. If you are storing the skeins for dying later, BE SURE TO LABEL with date and mordant used | |
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HERBS for DYEING A-Z From: Growing Herbs & Plants for Dyeing By: Betty E.M. Jacobs AGRiMONY The best yellows will be obtained from late fall harvested plants; gathered earlier tehy will yeild a yellowish-buff color. Parts Used: Leaves and stems Color Achieved: Brasy yellow (alum mordant) Gold (chrome mordant) Barberry Bark and roots should be harvested in late summer and fall. Leafy tips can be used, but the colors are not strong. Parts Used: Inner bark and roots Color Achieved: Yellow (no mordant) Yellow (Tin with acetic acid) Bedstraw Parts Used: Roots Color Achieved: Red (alum mordant) Pruplish/red (chrome mordant) Plum (iron mordant) Bloodroot Roots should be harvested in fall, after the leaves die down. They should be stored in a dry place, or they will deteriorate quickly. Parts Used: Roots Color Achieved: Orange (no mordant) Rust (Alum/Cream of Tarter mordant) Reddish/pink (Tin mordant) Broom Parts Used: Flowering tops, young shoots Color Achieved: Bright greenish/yellow (alum mordant) BrightYellow (alum mordant) Deep Yellow (Chrome mordant) Calliopsis/Coreopsis Parts Used: Fresh flowers Color Achieved: Red/orange (Chrome mordant) Yellow (Tin mordant) Dhalia Part Used: Fresh or dried flowers Color Achieved: Clear Orange (Chrome mordant) Brassy Yellow (Alum mordant) Dyer's Broom Parts Used: Fresh or dried flowering tops, small leaves and stems Color Achieved: Light Yellow (Alum mordant) Deep Yellow (Chrome mordant) Dyer's Chamomile Parts Used: Fresh or dried flowers Color Achieved: Yellow/buff (Alum mordant) Golden/orange (Chrome mordant) Clear Yellow (Tin mordant) Elder Parts Used: Fresh or frozen berries Color Achieved: Violet (Alum mordant) Lilac (Alum mordant with salt in the dye bath) Greenish/grey (Alum mordant with pokeberries added to the elderberries) Blue/gray (Tin mordant) Blue (Chrome mordant) Dark grey (Tin mordant top dye the blue/grey with walnut) Goldenrod Parts Used: the whole plant Color Achieved: Yellow/green (Iron mordant and the whole plant) Yellow (Alum mordant with just eh flowers) Old Gold (Chrome mordant with just the flowers) Bright Yellow (Tin mordant with the whole plant) Heather Parts Used: Fresh young, green tips; fresh flower buds; fresh open flowers Color Achieved: Yellow to lime (Alum mordant with young green tips) Gold (Alum with fresh flower buds) Light Orange (Alum with fresh flowers) Hollyhock Parts Used: Fresh blossoms, fresh red blossoms, fresh leaves Color Achieved: Orange (Chrome mordant with fresh blossoms) Pink (Alum with fresh red blossoms) Lime (Alum with fresh leaves) Lilly of the Valley Parts Used: Fresh leaves Color Achieved: Yellow/pale green (Alum mordant), Bronze (Chrome mordant), Bright Yellow (Tin mordant) Madder Parts Used: Medium sized roots give better dye stuff than woody roots. Use fresh ground, or dried and powdered. Color Achieved: <st1:City><st1:place>Orange</st1:place></st1:City> (Tin mordant), Lacquer Red (Alum mordant) Garnet Red (Chrome mordant) Marigold Parts Used: Fresh or Dried Blossoms Color Achieved: Gold (Chrome mordant), Yellow-tan (Alum mordant) Meadowsweet Parts Used: Whole plant without roots for Greenish-yellow. Roots for Rosey Red and Brown Color Achieved: Greenish-yellow (Alum mordant), Rosey Red (Alum mordant), Brown (Chrome mordant) Black (Iron mordant) Mullein Parts Used: Leaves and stalks Color Achieved: Yellow (Alum mordant), Gold (Chrome mordant) Bright Yellow (Tin mordant) Onion Parts Used: Red and yellow skins Color Achieved: Tan/brown (Tin mordant and red skins), Gold (Chrome mordant and red skins), Reddish Orange (Alum mordant and red skins), Dark Tan (Chrome mordant and red skins), Burnt Orange (Alum mordant and yellow skins), Brass (Chrome mordant and yellow skins) Pokeweed Parts Used: Fresh & Dried Berries Color Achieved: Reds (Alum mordant and fresh berries), Browns (Alum mordant and dried berries), Red (Tin mordant and fresh berries) Privet< Parts Used: Fresh leaves Color Achieved: Bright Yellow (Alum mordant), Gold (Chrome mordant), Dark green (Iron mordant) Ragwort Parts Used: Fresh stems, leaves and flower heads Color Achieved: Green (Alum mordant and stems and leaves) Rich yellow (Alum mordant with fresh flower heads), Brownish-yellow (Chrome mordant and fresh flower heads) Safflower< Parts Used: Flowers Color Achieved: Clear yellow (Alum mordant), Brass (Iron mordant), Rust (Tin mordant) Saffron Parts Used: Stigma Color Achieved: Yellow (Alum mordant) Tansy Parts Used: Young leaves and flowers Color Achieved: Yellowish green (Alum mordant with young leaves), Greenish-yellow (Alum mordant with fresh flowers) Tomato Parts Used: Vine Color Achieved: Reddish brown (No mordant), Light yellow (Alum mordant) Weld Parts Used: Leaves, flowers, and stalks Color Achieved: Lemon yellow (Alum mordant), Golden yellow (Chrome mordant), Yellow orange (Tin mordant) Woad Parts Used: Young leaves Color Achieved: Blue, after exposing to the air (No mordant) Yellow Flag< Parts Used: Fresh or dried Rhizomes Color Achieved: Grey/black (Iron mordant) Zinia Parts Used: Fresh or dried flower heads Color Achieved: Bright yellow (Alum mordant), Greenish yellow (Chrome mordant) | |
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Signatures of Herbs Many of the herbs have what are called "signatures," a system of of characteristics that help identify the herb and its functions. It is important to understand what those signatures are in order to know what the herb can be used for. You will become proficient in gathering wild herbs once you have an understanding of the sinature of the plants. (I want to mention here that with knowledge comes responsibility. Many of theherbs are on the endangered list, so be aware when you do use nature's bounty.)
Knowing the signatures of the plants will also help you in preparing and creating your own recipes. Certain characteristics can be brokend own into categories. These categories indicate what a particular plant can be used for. Here are some general rules to help you understand signatures. 1. The color of the herb's flowers is an important part of the signature. The plants with the yellow blooms are generally used for liver, gallbladder, and all urinary problems and tonics that rid the body of toxins and infections.
The herbs with the reddish flowers are all good blood purifiers and/or alternatives. The color red indicates the astringency or the healing effect of certain herbs. Herbs with this color can be used to treat skin disorders that are caused by blood imurities. The active ingredient of many of the alternative herbs are considered to be antibiotic in nature.
Herbs that have purple or blue flowers are without exception used as a sedative or relaxant. These are good to add to a recipe when the patient needs to stay calm during an illness, or in treating muscle spasms. Most of our illnesses are caused by stress and most of the herbal remedies would benefit from the addition of a calmative or sedative. They are also considered good blood purifiers, so they have their place as a tonic as well. 2. The growing conditions of the herb is the second thing you look at to ascertain the signature of the herb. Herbs that grow in an area with a lot of gravel indicates that the plant can be used in treating illnesses that have to do with stone or gravel in the body. These herbs help to cleanse and remove harmful accumulations from the alimentary and bronchial systems. They are used to treat kidney stones or gallstones.
So-called stone-breakers are parsley, peppergrass, shepherd's purse, sassafras, and mullein. Mullein will grow just about anywhere. I find it quite often growing in gravel along railways and roadways.
You would not necessarily use the same kind of plants or herbs if you found them growing in other conditions. For instance, milkweed growing in sandy soil has twice as many active ingredients as the same species found growing in a good, rich soil.
Herbs found growing in mucky, swampy, or wet ground are good to use in recipes designed to treat excessive mucous excretions, such as respiratoryproblems dealing with asthma, colds, coughs, and rheumatic disorders. Willow, verbena, boneset, and elder are examples of this.
Herbs that grow near fast-moving water are good to use as diuretics. These help to clean the alimentary systems of toxins and harmful wastes.
Always be aware of the growing conditions when gathering herbs for a specific treatment. A godo example of differences found in the herbs is the sage plant. Sometimes a pink and a blue bloom will be found on the same species of sage growing right next to each other. This would indicate to me that the blue-flowered plant would be used only as a sedative. Because of the astringent nature of sage, both pink and blue-flowered sage can be used as a blood purifier, but I would choose the pink-blossomed plant, because the pink flowers indicate that it has blood purifying properties. 3. Different textures indicate different uses. Herbs that have a soft texture to them are useful for treating swollen or inflamed areas. They can also be used in so-called wet colds or any chest disorders. NO herbal remedy for internal use is considered complete unless one of these emollient herbs is included in the recipe. Horehound, mullein, and hollyhocks are good examples of emollient herbs. 4. Any of the herbs that have thorns or are prickly are used in disorders hwere there is sharp pain. Thistle is used as a tonic for all the organs. Hawthorn can be used as a tonic for the heart because it has sharp thorns and is indicative of sharp pains in the heart. Hawthorn is also considered a diuretic and that is helpful in any heart treatment. Wild prickly lettuce is used as a pain reliever and as a sedative. It has blossoms that may be white, yellow, or blue. The prickles are indicative of its usefulness in treating sharp pain.
The epidermal hairs of some of the plants are suggestive of their use in internal problems where there are sharp or stitching pains. Hops, nettle, and mullein are three plants that come to mind immediately. 5. Any herb that clings to itself is believed to cling to an help remove any hardened mucus of the inner systems. Any of the herbs that have a "sticking to" propensity are good to use in ridding the body of toxins and virus germs. Balm of Gilead is used in chest complaints because it has a stick substance covering it. The ground-covering herbs are also considered good to use in ridding the boy of hardened mucus. Examples of this are coltsfoot, sage, thyme, horehound, and mallow. 6. Herbs that are also vines are considered good to use in remedies for the blood system and the nervous system because they resemble them. The blood vessels and the nerve paths throughout the body call to mind the vines. Another way to check whether or not the herb will be useful for these disorders is to check the root system of the plant. If it has a vein-like root system, then the herb may be used to treat disorders dealing with the blood system or nervous disorders. 7. The skin healers have signatures in several different ways. They have thing, threadlike roots and stems. Comqiefoil, gold thread, and septfoil are good examples of this. The roots resemble the structure of the veins in the skin. 8. Fissures in the back of certain trees are indicative of their use in certain skin disorders. Cherry, white birch, and elder are examples of trees with healing properties for skin ulcers and sores. Balsamic resinous exudations help to heal cuts and ulcers of the skin. Moss, lichens, and molds are good choices when making preparations used to treat skin diseases (such as psoriasis) because these herbs resemble the apprearance of these disorders. 9. Sometimes, just the name alone can indicate the use of that particular herb. Heartsease, eyebright, pleurisy root, feverfew, cancer root, and throat root are just a few. Many of the plants, such as eyebright and chamomile, are indicative for eyes because the floral parts resemble eyes. 10. Many of the herbs that have a root structure resembling the human torso are used as aphrodisiacs, or as a way to overcome sterility. Ginseng is an example of this.
Skull cap and walnut have forms that resemble the shape of the human head, and can be used in treatment of headaches and nervous disorders. 11. Another important herbal signature is aroma. The stronsmelling herbs such as cinnamon, cloves, thyme, and rosemary are used as disinfectants. Most of the aromatic herbs are highly antiseptic or germicidal and have antibiotic properties. Sage, pennyroyal, all mints, tansy, and yarrow are good examples. 12. Another good rule to remember: Herbs that attract bees can also be used as an antidote for bee and insect bites. Bee balm and basil are good examples of this. Just crush several leaves and rub on the area. Some of the signatures will not apply in every case. These are some herbs that have no signature. Study the properties of the plant that you plan to use and become familiar with the signatures of that plant (or lack of signatures0 before using it in any recipe.
Becoming familiar with the signatures of the herbs is a first step in getting control over our health. When the ancint shamans and healers concentrated on just a few plants and became experts in the use of those few, their remdies were effective. Diet played an important part in their treatments. They realized that a helathy diet was linked to a healthy body and a healthy mind.
We live in a world that has become dangerous to our health and we should start where we can do the most good. Taking care of those we love and teaching them to take care of their body, spirit, and mind is the most important difference we can make. By studying about the ways mother nature can make our life better, we also become more spiritually-minded. We soon realize that we are all connected and learn ways to deal with our own excesses. We learn to work with nature and not against it. We learn that we are responsible for our own health and take steps to stay healthy. ~Jude C. Todd~ |
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Beautiful to behold in nature, many plants have been used medicinally for thousands of years. Here are ten proven medicinal herbs that scientists have tested in clinical studies. Few people are aware of the multitude of scientific studies done on plants. This information should not be used as medical advice.
Garlic
"If we were to design a drug that had perfect properties according to what we know about heart disease and associated risk factors, we couldn't improve on garlic," says Amanda McQuade-Crawford, herbalist and director of the Ojai Center of Phytotherapy in Ojai, Calif. Regular use of garlic is associated with the prevention of cardiovascular disease, she explains. Garlic raises protective HDLs (high-density lipoproteins) , while it lowers harmful LDLs (low-density lipoproteins) and triglycerides (blood fats). Garlic is also known to help lower high blood pressure, she says. Garlic aids in cancer prevention by raising the body's level of glutathione transferase, a liver enzyme known to detoxify the body of carcinogens, says McQuade-Crawford. In China, researchers found gastric cancer was reduced where garlic intake was high. Other researchers have noted improved helper/suppressor ratios of T-cells in AIDS patients who take garlic. Proven to work against various micro-organisms including bacteria resistant to antibiotics, garlic is known to be antifungal and antiviral, she adds.
Hawthorn
The berries of this flowering shrub are best used for the heart, says McQuade-Crawford. Hawthorn aids the heart's pumping action by opening the coronary arteries to nourish the heart muscle. The herb can also slow a rapid heart rate and strengthen a failing heart. Hawthorn usually lowers high blood pressure, especially a raised diastolic high blood pressure, and it benefits low blood pressure due to weak heart muscles with arrhythmia (irregular heart rhythm).
"Hawthorn takes a long time to do its best -- six months or longer. In the style of a true herbal tonic, it can be taken safely and effectively over time for its best effects," notes McQuade-Crawford.
Ginkgo Biloba
Ginkgo Biloba extract from the ginkgo tree has been shown to benefit visual function by improving microcirculation to the eyes especially among patients suffering from senile macular degeneration, a common condition thought to involve free radical damage, says Steven Schechter, N.D., author of Fighting Radiation & Chemical Pollutants With Foods, Herbs &Vitamins (Vitality, Ink).
More than 280 scientific studies indicate standardized ginkgo extract prevents and/or benefits ailments such as vertigo, tinnitus, inner ear disturbances, memory impairment, ability to concentrate, anxiety, depression, neurological disorders, senility, circulatory disorders, edema and Raynaud's disease (a vascular disorder). Ginkgo extract improves the quality and increases the quantity of capillary circulation, thus increasing blood flow to the brain, heart and tissues in organs and glands, Schechter says. In addition, he notes, the flavonoids in ginkgo are potent free radical scavengers.
Ephedra
Also known in Chinese as ma huang, ephedra may be the world's oldest herb cultivated for medicinal purposes, dating back nearly 5,000 years, says McQuade-Crawford. It's commonly used in cold formulas as a decongestant.
"Ephedra is a great bronchial dilator," McQuade-Crawford says. It helps asthma sufferers by opening the sinus passages and has an antihistamine effect which aids chronic and acute allergies. Ephedra also acts as a circulatory stimulant to blood pressure and heart function; it elevates blood pressure. Ephedra's main constituent is ephedrine, which increases adrenaline secretion in our bodies. The boost you get from ephedra stimulates certain glands, muscles and tissue functions, while it suppresses others.
"In the long term, ephedra's adrenaline overdrive can lead to chronic stress and even to degenerative disease," warns McQuade-Crawford. She notes this is important for people using ephedra for dietary weight loss or "pep pill" purposes because the effects of ephedra linger in the body long after the herb is gone. "Ephedra shouldn't be used with drugs for the heart or for the lungs and never with antidepressant drugs. It's not for use with the weak or the ill and when used long term, dosages should be conservative, " McQuade-Crawford cautions.
Licorice
Licorice has been most recently researched as an antiviral and in the treatment of gastrointestinal ulceration, explains McQuade-Crawford. Its soothing, anti-inflammatory and relaxing actions help smooth muscles in the gastrointestinal tract on contact. "Licorice gets into a painful, contracted, tight digestive tract and coats the raw places, relaxes the clenched-up muscles and acts as a local anti-inflammatory, " she says. Licorice also increases bile secretion. Licorice is indicated for any gastrointestinal ulcers, including mouth ulcers. The root is indicated for chronic coughs and bronchitis as a soothing decongestant. It's also indicated in small amounts to reduce sugar cravings.
The Chinese often use licorice to improve the taste and the effects of other herbs in complex formulas. Japanese research has shown licorice to decrease high testosterone levels in women with ovarian cysts and to increase their fertility. Large amounts of licorice or long-term use raises blood pressure in some people.
Bilberry
A strong antioxidant, bilberry benefits your circulatory system, eyes, heart and brain, and helps generate overall good health, says Schechter. Bilberry fruit contains a type of flavonoid called anthocyanosides, which are responsible for increasing flexibility of capillaries and increasing blood flow.
Research shows that standardized extract of bilberry can enlarge range of vision and improve sharpness of images, enhance ability to focus, and improve blurred vision, eyestrain and nearsightedness. Bilberry extract also helps strengthen coronary arteries and helps prevent atherosclerosis and venous insufficiency, which causes swollen ankles and feet. "Since adding bilberry to my own health program, I've noticed my muscles seem to recover slightly faster, I experience less muscular pain and my vision has improved from 20/100 to approximately 20/50," says Schechter.
Echinacea
Decades of research prove echinacea's value for aiding the immune system, Schechter explains. Studies have determined echinacea's ability to activate white blood cells and stimulate the regeneration of the cellular connective tissue and the epidermis. Schechter notes that echinacea's infection-fighting properties stem from its ability to neutralize a harmful enzyme involved in the infection process. Echinacea also increases two vital components of your immune system that consume and eliminate invading organisms and foreign particles.
German studies have shown echinacea extract contains proteins that help protect noninfected cells against viral infections, one reason why echinacea is regarded as an influenza preventor. Another German study found echinacea effective in allergy treatment because it helps prevent tissue inflammation due to harmful foreign toxins.
Milk Thistle
"I consider standardized milk thistle seed extract the most beneficial herbal product for liver detoxification, regeneration and protection, and, in general, one of the most universally necessary herbal products for the 1990s," says Schechter. He notes that the stress of toxins from chemical pollutants, pharmaceuticals, alcohol, tobacco smoke, drugs and different forms of radiation have cumulative side effects that need to be addressed.
More than 120 scientific studies have shown that milk thistle extract regenerates, regulates and strengthens liver functions. Because free radicals attack the liver, primarily the fat tissue in the liver, the antioxidant qualities of milk thistle are extremely beneficial. Milk thistle stimulates your body to produce superoxide dismutase, which is one of two primary antioxidants the body can manufacture.
Astragalus
Astragalus has been used as an immunity booster in China for nearly 4,000 years, according to Rob McCaleb, founder of the Herb Research Foundation in Boulder, Colo. Astragalus extracts can increase immune system efficiency by increasing immune activity. One study found that astragalus extracts could increase the impaired immune function of blood cells up to and sometimes beyond normal cell ability.
According to Planetary Herbology (Lotus Press) by Michael Tierra, N.D., astragalus helps strengthen digestion, raise metabolism, strengthen the immune system and promote wound healing. It can also treat chronic weakness of the lungs, shortness of breath, low energy, prolapse of internal organs, spontaneous sweating, chronic lesions and deficiency edema.
Ginseng
Ginseng is one of the most widely studied herbs, having been the subject of more than 3,000 scientific studies to investigate how ginseng helps improve a person's physical and/or mental performance, notes McCaleb. Studies have shown ginseng helps increase memory and learning by improving circulation. It's also been shown to reduce cholesterol and protect the liver from toxins. Ginseng, according to Tierra, is known to strengthen the lungs, nourish body fluids and calm the spirit. It may be used for shock, collapse and heart weakness, as well as for promoting longevity and increasing resistance to disease.
A Japanese study showed cancerous liver cells could be reverted to normal cells in a Petri dish culture when treated with Panax ginseng extract. Siberian ginseng has also been shown to stimulate the immune system |
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Harvesting and Drying Herbs
Harvest time for an herb is best determined by the growing condition of the herb, rather than by a specific date or month. Most herbs are ready to be harvested just as the flower buds first appear. The leaves contain the maximum amount of volatile oils at this stage of growth, giving the greatest flavor and fragrance to the finished product.
To extend the use of herbs into the winter months, plan to harvest and dry various herbs during the summer and fall. Herbs should be harvested at the proper time of the day; early in the morning, just before the sun is hot. Their fragrance makes this early task quite enjoyable.
Annual herbs can be cut back quite severely during harvest. Using a sharp knife or pruning shears, cut just above a leaf or a pair of leaves, leaving 4 to 6 inches of the stem for later growth. However, if an annual herb is grown for it's seed, it should not be cut back and used for the leaves. In these cases, allow the plants to mature fully and then harvest them. Collect the seed heads when they are turning brown by cutting them from the plants and drying them on a tray made of very fine wire mesh.
Leafy perennial herbs should not be cut back as heavily as annuals. Only about one-third of the top growth should be removed at a time, and in some cases only the leafy tips should be removed. Careful pruning insures that new growth will be produced and a compact habit of growth maintained. Most perennial herbs will be ready to harvest just prior to or during the early part of July, with a second harvest possible in September in the cases of herbs such as tarragon and oregano. A sharp knife or pair of pruning shears are necessary tools when harvesting herbs. The herbs should be fresh and clean before drying and storing, regardless of the method used to cure them. To clean, wash stems in cold running water and drain on paper toweling. The easiest way to dry herbs is to allow the leaves or entire stems to air dry at room temperature.
When drying whole branches or stems: first wash and dry, then gather 5 to 8 stems together and tie them into a bundle. Place the bundle into a brown paper bag with stems extending out the open end and hang in a dark warm place (70 to 80 degrees F). Depending on temperature and moisture, drying time will take 2 to 4 weeks. Tray drying is usually used for short-stemmed herbs or for individual leaves; an old window screen or smaller drying tray fashioned from 2"x2" lumber and screening usually works as a drying tray. The trays should be kept in a warm, dark place until the herbs are dry.
Silica Sand Drying is the same process as is commonly used to dry flowers. Silica sand draws the moisture out of the plant tissues and leaves them in their original shapes. Any container will do, as long as it is big enough to allow all of the plant materials to be covered with sand. The leaves should be clean and dry. Place a shallow layer of silica sand in the bottom of the container, then arrange herbs on top so they don't overlap; then cover with more silica sand and place container in a warm room. It will take 2 to 4 weeks until the herbs are thoroughly dried and can be removed from the sand for storage in glass jars.
An ordinary gas, electric or microwave oven can be used for quicker drying of herbs. Care must be taken, for herbs can't be dessicated too quickly at too high a temperature or much of the flavor, oils, and color of the herbs would be lost. When drying with a conventional oven: place the leaves or stems on a cookie sheet or shallow pan and warm at no more than 180 F for 3 to 4 hours with the oven door open. When using a microwave oven: place the clean stems or leaves on a paper plate or towel and set the control on high for 1 to 3 minutes; turn the stems over or mix the leaves every 30 seconds.
Store the herbs in airtight jars in a cool, dry place. If the entire stems were dried, remove the leaves and crush or crumble them in jars. The herbs must be completely dried or they will form mold. Keep the jars away from light and heat, as both will destroy the quality of the herbs.
There are many other methods of preserving herbs. Many herbs can be successfully frozen, and retain their freshness after being thawed. When freezing herbs, they must first be harvested and washed thoroughly. Blanch the herbs in boiling water for a minute or two, and then cool quickly in ice water. After draining, place the herbs in a package and freeze them. Some herbs, such as parsley, chives and basil can be pureed with a small amount of water in a blender, and then frozen in an ice cube tray. They can later be stored in plastic bags for use in flavoring soup and sauces.
Herb vinegars are an extremely popular use for home grown herbs. To make herb vinegar: place herbs in a jar or bottle and cover with white vinegar and secure with a tight lid, storing the bottle in a cool, dry place. After steeping for 4 to 6 weeks, the vinegar can be poured off into smaller bottles and capped.
Herb butter can be made with the addition of about 4 tablespoons full of dried herb leaves and a dash of lemon juice to 1/4 pound of butter softened at room temperature. The butter should then be stored in the refrigerator in a covered container.
Herb mustard is a mixture of 8 tablespoonsful of dry mustard, 8 tablespoonsful of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar with just enough vinegar to make a smooth paste. The mixture should then be divided into four portions; into each portion mix one table-spoonful of desired herbs.
Potpourri is a mixture of dried herbs and flower petals that preserves the aromatic fragrances of the summer months. Most potpourris start with dried roses and lavender as a base, to which other dried herbs are added. The herbs used depends on personal preference and availability; some popular choices include: sweet basil, lemon verbena, sweet marjoram, lemon balm, scented geranium, rosemary, thyme and mint. To make a potpourri: begin by mixing 4 to 6 cupfuls of various dried petals and leaves in a large bowl. Add a tablespoonful of whole cloves, cinnamon, or ginger. To blend the herbs and to make them last, add a fixative such as calamus root, benzoin or orris root. Only one ounce is needed per batch. The mixture should be stored in jars with tight-fitting lids, and be shaken or stirred occasionally. After 4 or 5 weeks, the potpourri mixture should be well blended and can be placed in ornamental canisters or sachets.
Harvesting and Using Particular Herb Types A=Annual B=biennial P=Perennial TP=Tender perennial
Anise-(A)- The green leaves can be cut off whenever the plants are large enough. The seeds are ready when they turn brown. Wash In warm water,drain thoroughly, and allow to air dry.
Use: The leaves can be used in salads, soups, beverages, meats, game, and poultry. The seeds are used to flavor cakes, bread, and cookies. Leaves and seeds also add a delightful scent to sachets and pot-pourris.
Basil, Sweet-(A)- For fresh use, harvest the leaves as they mature-about 2 weeks after planting. For dry use, harvest leaves just before the plant blooms.
Use: One of the most popular herbs, used mainly with tomato and egg dishes, stews, soups, and salads, but also with many vegetable, poultry, and meat dishes.
Caraway-(B)- The seeds are harvested after they turn a gray-brown color. Scald the seeds in boiling water, then dry thoroughly.
Uses: Use the seeds in breads, cakes, cookies, potato salad, and baked fruit (apples, for example). Also can be used in Hungarian-type dishes, coleslaw, sauerkraut, cheese spread, meat stews, and fish casseroles.
Chervil-(A)- For fresh use, pick the tips of stems once a month. For dry use, harvest leaves just before the blossoms open. Dry on trays.
Uses: Use fresh leaves the same as you would parsley, such as in salads, salad dressings, soups, egg dishes, and cheese souffles.
Chives-(P)- Leaves can be harvested any time during the growing season. Cut them off close to the ground. Can be pureed with water in a blender and frozen in ice cube trays.
Uses: Chives add a mild onion-like flavour to dips, spreads, soups, salads, omelets, casseroles, and many kinds of vegetables
Coriander-(A)- The leaves, which are only used fresh, can be cut for seasoning as soon as the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The seeds can be harvested when the heads turn brown.
Uses: Coriander seeds smell and last much like a mixture of sage and orange and can be used in baking, poultry dressings, and French salad dressing. Much used in Chinese, Middle Eastern, and Latin American cuisine.
Dill-(A)- The fresh leaves can be harvested as needed and used as seasoning. Seed heads should be harvested then the seeds ripen to a light brown color.
Uses: Leaves and seedheads are most commonly used in the making of dill pickles. The leaves also add a characteristic flavour to salads, cottage cheese, soups, fish dishes, omelets, sauces, and vegetable casseroles. Dill seeds are sometimes used in pasteries, sauces, sauerkraut dishes, and for flavoring vinegar.
Fennel-(TP)- The leaves can be harvested and used fresh. Fennel seeds are harvested when the seed heads turn brown. Dry in a paper bag. Florence fennel is harvested when the bulbs are large enough.
Uses: The anise-flavoured leaves and seeds of this herb are widely used in fish dishes, cheese spreads, and vegetable dishes. The leaves and stems can be used in much the same way as celery. Florence fennel bulbs are used in salads or as the main ingredient in a salad.
Lavender-(P)<WBR>- The whole flower spikes are cut just before the florets are fully open and when color and fragrance are at their best.
Uses: Lavender is most often used in sachets, perfumes, and potpourris.
Lovage-(P)- Harvest young, tender leaves and use fresh. You can dry or freeze the leaves for later use.
Uses: Use the celery-flavoured herb in soups, stews, potato salads, meat and vegetable dishes. It can also be eaten raw like celery. Its seeds are sometimes used in salads, candies, breads and cakes.
Majoram, Sweet-(A)- Cut back to 1 inch above the ground just before flowering; a second crop will form for later use. Easily dried or frozen.
Uses: Use Marjoram leaves with meat, poultry, vegetable dishes (especially green beans), potato salad, and egg dishes.
Mints-(P)- Harvest before flowering and use fresh or dried. Cut off near ground level. A second cutting can be harvested later on.
Uses: Used primarily for flavouring. The leaves are often put into teas and other beverages, as well as lamb sauces and jellies.
Oregano-(P)- Harvest and dry before flowering occurs.
Uses: Oregano imparts a sharper flavour than Sweet Marjoram. It is used to season spaghetti sauces and tomato dishes. Its flowers are attractive in summer arrangements.
Parsley-(B)- Snip young leaves just above ground level, as needed.
Uses: Use as a garnish in soups, salads, meats, and poultry.
Rosemary-(TP)- Harvest the young, tender stems and leaves, but avoid taking off more than one-third of the plant at one time. For drying, harvest just before the plant flowers.
Uses: A gourmet seasoning for meats, poultry dishes, and potatoes. Use either fresh or dried.
Sage-(P)- Harvest when just starting to flower and use either fresh or dried.
Uses: A commonly used seasoning for meats, stuffings soups, and salads.
Summer,Savory-(A)- You can gather young stem tips early, but when the plant begins to flower, harvest the entire plant and dry.
Uses: Used to flavor fresh garden beans, vinegars, soups, stuffings, and rice.
Tarragon,French-(P)- Harvest tarragon in June for steeping in vinegar. For drying, harvest in early to mid-July.
Uses: Often used in various sauces such as tartar and white sauce, and for making herb vinegar.
Thyme-(P)- Put leafy stem ends and flowers when plants are at the full-flowering stage. Use fresh, hang-dry, or freeze.
Uses: Used in combination with other herbs. Leaves can be used with meats, soups, sauces, and egg dishes.
SOURCE:
"Harvesting and Drying Herbs" by James C Schmidt and Dianne Noland Department of Horticulture, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champagne, Cooperative Extension Service, College of Agriculture HM-1
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| Herbal Exercises |  | | | by Jeannette Morrone | | | Inspired by a passage from "Incense, Oils and Brews" by Scott
Cunningham. Adapted by Jeannette Morrone
One way to help become sensitive to Herbal energies is to take the time to connect with each Herb you are currently going to use. By handling the Herb, you can get psychic impulses and have strong feelings, while you touch it, and/or from the smell. This will help you in the future because you will be able to choose herbs by this method, allowing you to make substitutions if necessary (like you run out of something and can't get it) by matching how the herb "feels." I have had to do this on many occasions and for me have found that my workings have been just as successful as when I have followed " the recipe."
The below exercise is not only fun but also will help you learn to trust your instincts on many levels.
Tools;
6 bowls & one towel
5 different types of herbs & one bowl of cool water with a pinch of salt
Pen and paper (or tape recorder if alone)
Put each Herb in its bowl (don't use combinations for the first time!) Have your partner get paper & pen. Sit or stand but either way get comfortable. Pull the first bowl in front of you where you can easily put your hands in it, ground and center. Put your hand(s) into the bowl, move your hand(s) around in the Herb. Tell the scribe any feelings that your feeling or any images that are coming to your mind, no matter how insignificant they may seem, just let them flow, and your scribe will write them down. When you feel you are done with an Herb, put your hands in the water bowl and dry them off, precede with the next bowl of Herbs until all bowls have been felt.
Keep the records of your Herb feelings or start an Herbal journal as you expand this exercise with more herbs, or combinations of Herbs. It will come in handy in the future!
Herb Gathering Tips for leaves, flowers & stems
There are many ways to collect and gather herbs. To me the most important however, is gathering with respect. There is nothing worse then taking more then you truly need.
If you choose to gather your own herbs, it should be done with care. For example; if you find a field of wild Yarrow, gather only what you feel you'll truly use until the next growing season. You don't need 3 garbage bags of the stuff! Be mindful of not trampling other Herbs in your attempt to get what you do want! ALWAYS leave some for the future, if you need one of something and there are two plants, PLEASE only take just one. This will insure that there will be more next year!
I always, prior to gathering, give the area that I'm harvesting an offering, usually something of value such as money, milk, a valued gem etc. I then take the time to state my reasons for my gathering, what and why I need to have the herbs assistance. This can be done mentally but it's important to take the time to connect to the energy of the area and show that you are going to be respectful in your gathering.
Take the time to feel the plants energy before you cut from it, often the plant will physically make a change in a certain area of it's self, thus indicating where you should cut, this happens often in trees or other woody stemmed plants. (I have personally felt this happen, to me the spot gets cold, like the tree draws its energy away!) I know that this may seem like overkill but I truly feel that when you take the time to show respect to nature and it's individual life forms, your rewarded, often by coming across other herbs you need and so on.
Once you have gathered what you have needed, there are several ways to prepare your Herbs depending on the type and size of your specimens. Hanging in a ventilated area is one way. It's simply done by gathering the Herbs into a bundle and using a string or yarn. Tie it around the bundle leaving a loop to which you can hang it from a nail. If you don't have the space or the desire to have Herbs hanging around your house, you can either lay them on paper towels or on a screen in a single layer. You'll just have to remember to move them about a couple of times a day, so air can get to all of them. This still requires that you have sufficient room to do this. I have placed Herbs in the oven on a VERY low heat (about 200 degrees) and dried them out on cookie sheets. It's faster and I haven't found them to be less effective. Plus I can do several different types of Herbs within a day.
You can put your dried herbs in storage containers (baby food jars work great!) and most will keep for about a year, if they are out of the direct sun and moisture free. Be sure to mark your herbs with it's name, the date gathered and with any other information you feel is necessary. Keeping a recipe box with 3/5 index cards is great to keep track of what you have in stock and save you from having to dig through your herb supply. I also have found it helpful to include some of the herbs basic information on each card, such as the Herbs basic properties, date and so on.
If you come across Resins (pitch or saps) you can gather these by carefully removing them with the tip of the knife or a stick. The sap is the result of an injury to the tree; think of it as its life's blood. (NEVER cut a tree to just get the sap!!!) Once you have the resins, you need to let them air dry. This can take a few weeks or more, depending on how thick they are. I have not found a faster way to achieve drying. Once they are hard all the way through, you can store them in containers or grind them up. Resins are VERY moisture sensitive so keep them in airtight containers! I think resins keep longer then a year. (I'm still working on ones I have gotten 16 mo. Ago! They still smell fresh and aren't gummy!)
A Brief herbal musing (a speculated history)
Through out history, man has looked to nature for everything. For food, clothing and shelter. It is only natural for man look to what the Earth has given them, for their health. The use of herbs may have been originally been found out by accident with their uses seeming to be "Magic" as ailments (Ones that may seam trivial to us now) where suddenly cured. Those with this knowledge where naturally sought out becoming the Village's Medicine Wo/Man, Shaman, or just plane Doctor. What they could do was considered Magic to those who didn't have this knowledge, thus putting these healers in the position of leaders or at the very least, as those who have a direct line to divinity making them priestess or priests of the villages particular deities. How else could these men or woman know or do such wonders!
Up until the time of "modern" pharmaceuticals and more controlled methods of dosing, there was bound to be problems of overdosing as well as under dosing any given patient. As well as the possibility of being blamed as causing the persons death, or further injury. The Shaman of old was held in awe, respected for his or her ability, yet feared because they seemed to hold the keys of life and of death.
There was a time that these healers where conceited Witches, more then likely when Christianity was in it's infancy. Those who where the Shaman healers and the like, where lumped together with the areas priestess and priests of pagan deities, in the Christian Church's attempt to promote there own. Thus terming any given areas healers and midwifes with those who practiced worship of the old Gods. In the Churches over zealousness of converting the Pagan people into Christians, any activity not approved by the new church and of those designated as approved "healers" where termed witches and theyre for their practices considered an act of heresy. Amongst all of the other misconceptions of the "Burning times" with anyone and everyone being a potential victim of accusation, many with the knowledge of herbal usage where more then likely included in the ranks of the accused.
With in the use of Magic, the use of herbs is long standing. Yes, Witches are notorious for being healers, many having a solid knowledge of how to use herbs to cure illness. But witches also used herbs in the Religious aspect as well. As incense in their temples and for offerings to their Deities is but just a few. The Pagan Priest and Priestesses of old recognizing the energies that where produced such as; purification for example.
The use of herbs in a Magical working probably stemmed from those who recognized the energy within herbs (priests and priestesses) and they would use this energy in its self or to add to what they were doing.
Everything has an energy field and there is then, a potential to use that energy within magic. So this leads me to believe that the Priests and Priestesses of old would use any and all energies that where available to them for whatever they at that time needed, aiding them in their workings.
In a modern sense, this still holds true. Many Witches use the energy of herbs to "boost" the spell, simmer for the smell and the element of air to produce a manifestation, burn to cleanse and purify sacred space and / or the home. The list is endless to say the least.
I should mention however, there are many that do not use herbs in any workings, which of course is fine as well. We are presenting the use of herbs to you, showing you how they can be of benefit and utilized in your practices as a Witch. Giving you a base to add too if you chose to continue or start to use them.
(C)2000, Jeannette Morrone
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Storing Your Herbs By Kathleen Fisher Medicinal herbs have four enemies that can drain their healing power: light, heat, moisture, and air. When you store your herbs, the goal is to eliminate these factors as completely as possible. Use sterilized, airtight, ceramic, or dark-glass containers. Essential oils can dissipate through pourous plastic containers. Containers should be filled to the top with the herbs you want to store. If you do have air space at the top, stuff in facial puffs or cotton balls. If the only airtight containers you can fid are of clear glass, store them in a dark cupboard that you rarely open. Be sure that your storage shelves or cupbards aren't near the stove, raidiator, or other heat source. Most herbs will reatin their potency for only a year, so don't hoard your precious harvest beyond that. Make this a year of herbal adventure! Check all of your stored herbs peiodically to see if they are deteriorating. You'll know they have lost their effectiveness if they lose their characteristic aroma or crumble almost to a powder when you rub them between your fingers. Plants that contain mcilage, like marsh mallow, are especially prone to absorbing moisture |
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THE CUNNING ARTS OF HEALING
A gift works no evil,
Though to sell the sacred power
And mysteries of knowledge
For money would be fatal;
For then the Spirit of healing
That dwells in me
Would have fled away
And returned no more.
In Faery Seership there is a tale explaining how all the herbs of the earth
were created. It is a tale revolving around a sister and brother of the
Tuatha De Danaan. Upon the untimely death of the brother, Miach, the sister, Airmed, wept bitterly, for theirs had been a very close and special relationship.
Daily, Airmed tended Miach's grave, and one day shortly after his burial,
Airmed fell asleep on Miach's mound. During her sleep she dreamed of Miach, who came to her, saying he would give her the gift of healing, that upon her returning to the material world, she would find growing upon his grave all the herbs for healing, and upon waking she would know the cunning arts of Herbcraft and healing.
As promised by this OtherWorld ancestor, upon returning from the Land of Faery, Airmed woke to find all the herbs of the world growing upon her brother's mound, and in her waking, she knew the usage of each. Airmed became the greatest healer among the Tuatha De Danaan. Obviously, from this tale we can see that she was also a great seer.
The "Whole" Function of the Seer
From the beginning of time, our planet has been a planet of disease and
death, this is the karma of the planet. As Spirits learning to be human beings, we birth into this realm of existence to experience disease and health. We do a life-long dance with disease and health, striving to find the balance between the two.
The healing function of the Faery seer is to know the balance between the
two; for this balance helps the seer remember the great lesson of the planet:
We want neither to be diseased nor healthy, but whole.
This balance is a very delicate one.
If we are in disease we are generating "lack" in our consciousness and
lives.
Yet, if we are in health we are generating "excess" in our consciousness and lives, and are likely to forget about disease.
When we forget about disease, we begin to deny its existence. In doing so we make it our enemy.
Let me clarify what I mean by enemy. As a Faery seer, if I were to generate the excess of health in my life, living with the false premise that I am "above" disease, therefore untouchable, then I begin to live in illusion because sooner or later I will experience some form of disease -- at the very least, death.
As disease comes back into my realm of experience, if I have been in denial, then it will effect me far more negatively then if I had remained
consciously aware of it. When disease re-enters my life, most likely I will be caught by surprise, resulting in an emotional, mental or spiritual imbalance; thus, I would fear disease.
Fear is an enemy. Fear turns disease into an enemy.
But, if I were to beware the karma of the planet -- that of disease and
death -- if I continue to remember that there is a possibility that I will
periodically experience certain degrees of disease, and eventually die, then I will move into a position of balance.
As I dwell in health I will remember disease and death, and when disease
moves into my realm of experience I will remember health and death, and when death eventually moves into my realm of experience I will remember what I learned from both health and disease, knowing that I might possibly be moving on to a new realm in which disease and death will not be part of my karma.
This is the balance the Faery seer keeps.
No one wants to experience disease, but the reality is we will all
experience disease, albeit in different degrees, and we all will experience death. Now the question is - will we all experience the balance?
The Faery seer knows that everyone can experience balance, but first they must desire wholeness. The principle of the cunning arts of healing and
Herbcraft is focused on this wholeness.
The Cunning Arts of Healing
Interestingly enough, the cunning arts of healing is based on vibration,
energy; for healing must be enacted on all levels, visible and invisible. This applies, more importantly, to the connection between the body and mind and the soul. When there is a breakdown in one of the connections, dis-ease is often the result, whether of a mental or physical type.
One of our well-known philosophers was, perhaps, responsible for creating a division between the body and mind and soul.
In Plato's 'Phaedo' dialogue of Socrates, he wrote, "The soul of the
philosopher greatly despises the body, and avoids it. . . [it] thinks best alone by itself, . . . by avoiding so far as it can, all association or contact with the body."
In time, Christianity incorporated this teaching, and several thousand years after Plato's death, his mind-body-soul division has completely saturated main-stream religious thinking, as well as the medical profession. It is just in the last decade we are seeing an attempt made -- at least in the medical profession -- toward reconnecting the body-mind-soul.
Understanding the different levels of energy within the body temple, its
three esoteric divisions and how the psychic healing energy operates within each, as well as the universal energy field, helps bridge the gap created by this doctrine, as already discussed earlier.
An example of how this knowledge aides the seer when healing on any level (physical, mental, emotional, spiritual), s/he would look first to the body temple and isolate the esoteric division in which the energy is blocked, access the associated energy center as to its condition (balanced, over-stimulated, under-stimulated) and work from there out into the subtle bodies, by stimulating the inner energy of the individual, sending her or his energy into the client's body. However, this procedure is a more advanced energy working, and better left to a time when the basic and necessary skills have been developed.
Energy healing can take years to develop through constant study and
practice. Becoming a healer is a great responsibility. The seer must become sensitive, develop connection with invisible realms, allies, and so forth, while at the same time undergoing a very pragmatic study of human anatomy and physiology.
Esoteric healing, which is what the seer performs, is a blending of
metaphysics and science. But as I've already elucidated, the seer does not become disillusioned by such time factors of committed study and practice; for the cunning arts of herbcraft and healing are part of their skill development. One such discipline of study and practice is that of fasting.
The Practice of Fasting
Fasting is very good for the body's system. If the system is cleansed on a
regular basis the energy vibration naturally raises. When the body's
vibrational rate is increased the dense matter begins to rejuvenate itself.
In the cunning arts fasting is recognized by the seer as a valuable tool in
healing. Fasting was learned from the animals, who always fast when sick or injured.
Throughout medical history, fasting has been regarded as one of the most dependable curative methods. Hippocrates, Galen, Paracelsus, and many other great doctors of medical antiquity, prescribed fasting. In the last one hundred years world-wide study has been given to fasting by such specialists as Drs.
Are Waerland, Ragnar Berg, Otto Buchinger, Jr., and Paavlo Airola.
From their studies we have learned that one of the main causes of disease and aging are to be found in biochemical suffocation, the systematic disorder that interferes with the normal processes of cell metabolism and cell regeneration. Disease and aging begins when the normal process of cell regeneration and rebuilding slows down. This slowdown is caused by the accumulation of waste products in the tissues which interferes with the nourishment and oxygenation of cells.
Paavlo Airola tells us that "each cell of our body is a complete living
entity with its own metabolish. It needs a constant supply of oxygen and adequate nourishment in the form of all the known nutritive substances, such as proteins, minerals, fatty acids, trace elements, etc.... During fasting, while the old cells and diseased tissues are decomposed and burned, the building of new, healthy cells is speeded up."
Here are several scientific-medical facts to consider with regards to
fasting as a tool for healing:
1. Ninety-eight percent of the atoms in the body were not there a year ago. 2. The skeleton that seems so solid was not there three months ago.
3. The skin is new every month.
4. The stomach lining is new every four days, with the actual surface cells
that contact food being renewed every five minutes.
5. The cells in the liver turn over very slow, but new atoms still flow
through them, making a new liver every six weeks.
6. Even though brain cells are not replaced once they die, the content of
carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and so on is totally different every year.
In this self-transformation the body undergoes within its own time-table,
the seer fasts to help ensure as optimum a level of purity within their system as possible. Fasting rejuvenates and enlightens the body, which has a vital physiological and mental effect. Fasting can help to normalize the body and mind because glandular chemistry and hormonal secretions are stimulated and increased. However, most importantly, through fasting, one achieves a greater degree of spirituality, allowing the heart -- the emotional body -- to be affected as well.
In certain classical shamanic practices, fasting was used to "suffer" so the grandmothers and grandfathers would take pity and give the sufferer the
'staff of knowledge'. In such cases, the seer would approach fasting with serious intent, usually preceding a major event, one that was of spiritual value.
If through fasting a seer could contact spirit beings, enacting her or his
own healing, they would not only be rejuvenating mind and body but adding the energy of the spirit to the entire process, which is the main intent behind esoteric healing: combining mind, body and spirit.
Without this Trinity, a holism of healing cannot take place, which means, on some level -- if one of these functions is not being effected -- there still
exists an imbalance, allowing for continual, albeit different degrees of,
disease to exist.
However, fasting is not a method of healing to be used by everyone. To
practice "safe" methods of fasting, one must be willing to consult a nutritionist, healer or holistic practitioner to learn how to fast. I mention it here as an example of how the seer transmutes their body energy, thus enacting vibrational transformation.
Faery seer healers -- and all others for that matter -- have a large
responsibility. Whether one consciously chooses to become a healer or realize they have been chosen by the Ancient Ones to be a healer, as is the case within shamanic practices, the individual will encounter a great burden: that of the welfare of keeping themselves healthy; for unless a healer maintains balance of energy, health of body, and spiritual attunement to the land and all living creatures, they will find it quite hard to enact their greatest responsibility -- which is to help to heal.
The practices discussed, thus far, in this volume are the disciplines of the
Faery seer healer, and are rigorously practiced on a regular basis. In
addition, the Faery seer ingests nutritional, whole foods, undergoes a regular form of physical activity, allows time for restful periods to recoup the body's energy, and takes a regular sweat bath.
The Practice of the Sweat Bath
The practice of taking a regular sweat bath, traditionally known as the
sweat cloghan (house), is remarkably similar to the sweat lodge used by Native American Indians.
In ancient Ireland the cloghan was the most effective custom used to cure
'the bones of pains, and the body of feverish disorders'. The seer used the cloghan to connect with the right side of their brain, which often resulted in a powerful opening of their psychic ability.
The traditional sweating cloghan is made of rough stones, with a narrow
entrance, through which the participants would creep on all-fours in a manner of humbleness and connection to Mother Earth.
Many of the cloghans were actually subterranean, making them the symbolic dwelling of the gods -- the sidhe under the hill.
Once inside the dwelling, a leather flap would be pulled down over the
entrance, sealing off all light and the outside world. All clothing would be
removed and the participants would lay flat on a stone floor. A peat fire was then kindled. The womb-like structure would be heated-up like a baker's oven to produce a profuse perspiration. The leather-flap would occasionally be opened for a brief period of time to allow ventilation.
A ceremony was attached to the using of the cloghan. Once the seer, or
participant, was inside, a singer would stand outside the structure and sing the ancient Faery song -- "The Distant Waterfall." The song would be sung nine times, with the intent of connecting the occupant with the thread of their true origin.
Today, this part of training is rarely practiced because of limited space
available to construct a traditional sweating cloghan. However, we are
fortunate to have local health clubs, with both steam-rooms and sauna-baths available for our use. Such facilities do come in handy, for not only physical balance, but for purging oneself through the baths as well, especially prior to any ceremony
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Introduction to Herbs Herbs have been the main source of medicine throughout human history. That they are still widely used today is not a throwback to the Dark Ages but an indication that herbs are a growing part of modern, high-tech medicine: about 25-30 percent of today's prescription drugs contain chemicals derived from plants. Some 119 chemical substances from 91 plants are now used in Western medicine. Of these, 74 percent were folk medicines brought to our pharmacies through scientific research. Researchers today examine folk or historical uses of plants to find new drugs for cancer, AIDS, and even the common cold. In Western countries, contemporary herbal medicine is based on European phytomedicine. Derived from plants or plant parts, phytomedicines are not isolated chemicals but preparations from an entire plant or from its root, leaf, flower, or fruit. Thus, such well known compounds as menthol (from peppermint), or digitoxin (from foxglove) are not considered phytomedicines. The European phytomedicine market is estimated at over $8 billion in annual sales, 70 percent of which are made in Germany, a country with a rich tradition of herbal medicine. One survey revealed that 76 percent of German women drink herbal teas for health benefits, and more than 50 percent take herbal remedies in the early stages of illness. Germany also has a favorable regulatory system that permits well-researched, well-documented herbs to be sold as drugs. Herbs widely used in Europe for many years are now becoming popular in the United States as dietary supplements. Many Americans are now taking greater responsibility for their own health and are consequently seeking alternatives to conventional medicine such as prevention through attention to diet, exercise, and the use of dietary supplements and herbs. Millions of consumers, frustrated with the cost of medical care and the not-so-wonderful side effects of wonder drugs, are turning to these health-care alternatives. According to the New England Journal of Medicine, Americans spent $13.7 billion on alternative forms of health care in 1990. As we move into the twenty-first century, herbs will no doubt be increasingly important in the maintenance of health and in the prevention and treatment of disease. In the United States, herb products are regulated as foods rather than drugs, unless a product has been approved as a nonprescription (over-the-counter) or prescription drug. Most herb products are now designated as dietary supplements. The Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act of 1994 (DSHEA, popularly pronounced D-shay) laid the foundation for federal regulation of dietary supplements, including herbs. DSHEA seeks to guarantee availability of products; allow truthful, nonmisleading scientific information to be used in conjunction with their sale; and give consumers some information on the product's benefits, as well as appropriate cautions. While DSHEA preserves existing safety standards in the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, it offers additional safeguards to protect consumers from. unreasonable risk or injury. The bill also places the burden of proof that a dietary supplement is adulterated or unsafe on the government, which must now present its evidence that a dietary supplement is unsafe in court. Formerly, the U. S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) could simply order a manufacturer to stop selling a questionable product. DSHEA also permits third-party information such as publications, articles, chapters in books, and scientific reports to support the sale of dietary supplements. The information must not be false or misleading, nor may it promote a particular manufacturer or product brand; it must present a balanced view of the scientific information and, if displayed in a store, must be physically separate from the product and free of any appendages such as stickers. The bill allows product labels to describe effects on general wellbeing or on structure or function in humans, but drug claims may not be made. For example, a manufacturer may claim that a garlic product helps to reduce cholesterol-but not that garlic helps to reduce cholesterol, thereby reducing the risk of heart disease. Dietary supplement labels with structure or function claims must also carry a disclaimer: This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. When this disclaimer appears on a product label or in advertising, a structure or function claim is being made, and presumably, the manufacturer can substantiate it. The manufacturer must also notify the Secretary of Health and Human Services within thirty days of making such a claim. DSHEA has also established an Office of Dietary Supplements within the National Institutes of Health to conduct, coordinate, and collect data on dietary supplements and to advise the Secretary of Health and Human Services. A separate Presidential Dietary Supplement Commission has been formed to study and make recommendations on dietary supplement labels and is to issue a report of its findings |
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Psychic Reactions From House Plants? Adapted from Plant Spirit Shamanism by Ross Heaven and Howard G. Charing (Inner Traditions, 2006). What mind boggling information can a lie detector and interrogation expert tell you about caring for your house plants? A lot, it turns out. He found that plants can read your mind, for one thing: They know your intentions for them, both good and bad. And they react to you emotionally. They might even love you! Learn more about your house plants from this unlikely source: a scientist whose job was to teach policemen how to use polygraph equipment. Cleve Backster, the scientist working with the police, decided one day to attach the electrodes of a lie detector to the leaf of a dracaena plant to see if the device was sensitive enough to pick up reactions from a nonhuman subject. After the device was attached to the leaf he thought maybe the reaction would be stronger if he burned the leaf. As soon as he had this thought there was a dramatic peak in the polygraph chart, a trace signature that Backster recognized as fear. Intrigued, Backster continued his research and the results were always the same: The plants always reacted to his intention before any action was taken. Backster concluded that not only are plants as sensitive as human beings, but they are able to read emotions and intentions, because there is a form of psychic connection, or affinity, between plants and people. Backster’s other results show that plants have memory, emotions, and very humanlike reactions, as well as psychic abilities. In other experiments, Backster demonstrated the love or empathy between a plant and its owner. One day he accidentally cut his finger and noticed that a plant being monitored was demonstrating a stress reaction of its own, as if it was experiencing Backster’s pain and shock at the sight of his blood. Using this perceived affinity for the basis for his experiment, Backster walked to a different building some blocks away and directed loving thoughts toward the plant. The polygraph recording showed a heightened trace as the plant picked up his intentions |
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