Escape to the Yorkshire Wolds

Once considered the Cinderella of Yorkshire's tourist spots, the Wolds are now catching up on their more glamorous sister regions - the Dales and the North Yorkshire Moors. Probably best known as the subject of David Hockney's paintings and Richard Benson's affectionate portrait of his farming childhood in The Farm, the Yorkshire Wolds have finally become a destination in their own right.

The Wolds stretch across a vast, elevated plateau, running from the seaside resort of Filey in the east and dropping into the Vale of York to the west. Still largely unknown to the 4x4 brigade, this is very much working countryside. The farmland is spectacularly fertile, consisting of gently rolling chalk hills occasionally sliced by deep, glacial valleys. Here, farmers adopt an upside-down approach - letting sheep and cows graze the valleys while keeping the hilltops free for arable crops.

This is a place of hidden pleasures, from sweet-smelling meadows of wildflowers and grasses to chalk cliffs teeming with puffins. Don't expect to glimpse all these treasures from your car window. If you truly want to appreciate this landscape once described by writer Winifred Holtby as "fold upon fold of the encircling hills, piled rich and golden", explore it on foot. It's no wonder that the Wolds are a hit with walkers and wildlife enthusiasts alike, but don't feel left out if muddy boots aren't your thing. From duck-pond villages such as Walkington, Nafferton and Bishop Burton to thundering horse races at Beverley, there's plenty here to keep a weekend visitor amused. No traffic, no crowds, no gritty industry - this is an area

 

Old Wold charm

Beverley is a pretty Georgian market town with a superb Gothic minster (01482 868540; www.beverleyminster.org.uk) adorned by 14th-century carvings of medieval musicians. Don't miss Burton Agnes Hall (01262 490324; www.burton-agnes.co.uk), a splendid Elizabethan manor with walled gardens. A wander around Sledmere House (01377 236637; www.sledmerehouse.com), which sits in the perfectly preserved estate village of the same name, is also a pleasure, thanks in large part to its Capability Brown parkland, 18th-century walled rose garden and a recently laid knot garden. Both historic houses are near Driffield, the largest town in the Wolds.

 

Outdoor pursuits

The Yorkshire Wolds Way is a National Trail that glides across 79 miles of chalk hills and hidden valleys, starting in Filey and ending in Hessle, taking in some of the region's most glorious sites. (For more details, visit www.nationaltrail.co.uk.) This is also excellent cycling country, thanks to the family-friendly, relatively flat terrain. The National Cycle Network and The National Byway both take you through quiet, traffic-free rural lanes and villages. (Visit www.sustrans.org.uk and www.thenationalbyway.org for cycle route suggestions.) Horse lovers can still catch the late-summer meetings at Beverley racecourse, including the seasonal finale on 23 September (01482 867488; www.beverley-racecourse.co.uk), while Cotton Dale Shooting Ground (01944 710313; www.cottondaleshootingground.co.uk) offers excellent clay pigeon shooting in a scenic 55-acre dale.

 

Beauty spots

The extremes of the region offer some of the best views. On the east coast, Flamborough Head juts out dramatically into the North Sea, with waves crashing against wild rock formations. On the western edge of the Wolds, Garrowby Hill, which inspired David Hockney's colourful painting of the same name, has the highest viewpoint of the entire area. On a clear day, you can enjoy spectacular panoramic views from Knapton Wold, extending eastwards to the coast, north to the Moors and as far as the Dales to the west. The ruined village of Wharram Percy, uninhabited since the 1500s, is an atmospheric spot, which has also been the subject of detailed archaeological research by English Heritage.

Woods and wildlife

The drive to Millington Wood, via Millington Dale, is almost as glorious as the ancient ash woodland itself, home to a vast number of plants and wildlife, with picnic spots thrown in for good measure. Tophill Low nature reserve (01377 270690; www.yorkshirewater.com) is dotted with footpaths and, with its wetlands and observation hides, is popular with birders. Autumn is a good time of year to visit Bempton Cliffs, an RSPB nature reserve that's home to a seabird colony (01262 851179; www.rspb.org.uk), where you can watch the annual bird migration.

 

Something different

The county's last remaining working windmill, Skidby Windmill (01482 848405) is now a museum of rural life with a tea room serving cakes baked with the mill's own flour and lovely views over the Wolds. Cruckley Animal Farm (01262 488337; www.cruckley.co.uk) is an approved rare-breed centre and a working farm; the rare-breed bacon is worth the visit alone. Finish off the day in The Falling Stone pub in Thwing (01262 470403), where you can try the famous local tipple, Falling Stone Bitter. Produced by the Wold Top Brewery, the real ale is named after the first meteorite recorded in the UK, which fell on local farmland in 1795 and is now held in the collection of the British Museum. Beverley Tourist Information Centre (01482 391672; www.inbeverley.co.uk).

 

Escape essentials

Places to stay
�?The Barn House and The Pigeon Loft, Walkington (07984 219883; www.barnhouse-walkington.co.uk). Set on a farm, these sophisticated barn conversions are well located, especially if you're planning to take
in the races at Beverley. B&B costs from £120 per room per night.

�?Burythorpe House, Burythorpe (01653 658200; www.burythorpehouse.co.uk). This smart small hotel has just 13 rooms and an excellent reputation for its food. The menu is seasonal and local; some ingredients are foraged by the head chef himself. Mid-week breaks cost from £105 B&B.

�?Mulberry Cottage, Skerne (01377 254073; www.mulberry-whin.com). On a working farm with a superb chalk stream, where guests can fish for trout and grayling (book ahead to fish for around £60 per rod), the cottage has three double bedrooms. It can be booked on a self-catering or B&B basis, with the cost depending on the number of nights and number of people. On the same farm, you can book B&B at the recently renovated Whin Lodge for £35 per person per night with two sharing, or £40 per night for single occupancy.

�?Reading Room Cottage, Langton, nr Malton (0870 197 0981; www.12go.co.uk - quote ref KOU). A dinky one-bedroom cottage in a delightful little estate village. A two-night weekend stay in mid-September costs £257.

 

Places to eat
�?Blacksmith's Inn, Westow (01653 618365). Voted Yorkshire Dining Pub of the Year a couple of years ago, this cosy little pub on the edge of the Wolds offers a mouthwatering menu featuring locally sourced food.

�?The Gait Inn, Millington (01759 302045). An earthy, traditional country pub that is off the beaten track but well worth a visit, especially if you want to sample real Yorkshire pudding - here it's a starter, served with cooked onions and tasty gravy.

�?The Pipe and Glass, South Dalton (01430 810246; www.pipeandglass.co.uk). Standing on the site of the original gatehouse to Dalton Park, this is a marvellous pub serving award-winning regional and seasonal food and wines, sourced from small producers, in relaxed surroundings.

�?The Wellington Inn The Green, Lund (01377 217294). If you are after
a hearty pub lunch and a pint of locally produced beer, look no further than this picturesque inn in the centre of the pretty village of Lund.

 

Maps and books

Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps: 293 Kingston upon Hull & Beverley; 294 Market Weighton & Yorkshire Wolds Central; and 301 Scarborough, Bridlington & Flamborough Head.

'Yorkshire Wolds Way 2007' by Roger Ratcliffe (National Trail Guides, £12.99). Route details and maps.