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| | From:  Starliteny1 (Original Message) | Sent: 7/30/2005 4:25 AM |
Ok, here's my situation-there is a fairly new client where I work. He is a very feminine man, and dresses up and wears his hair like a woman. I always do his eyebrows, but today, he also wanted color. So, he comes in with black haircolor, with grey roots. He wanted to be blond with black lowlights. Well, the first thing I thought of is that I should have stripped out the black color, which I know is difficult, time was an issue, and I was concered about the condition it would leave his hair in. Instead, what I came up with which seemed like a good idea at the time, is that I should leave the black where is was, put on a blond color, and highlight with foils to break up the black, and then lowlight the roots with black. I used V-lite 40 vol, with Socolor 510 for 45 mins. I really believed the lightner would go through the black at least somewhat, but it didn't really. Plus, he didn't like the shade of blond that came out, besides the fact that some of his grey didn't even take. My coworker who knows a little more than me said that he is probably on hormone medication to grow his breasts, and medication would make color not take, plus, he probably the black color was probably coated on so much because he did it at home. So anyway, of course I didn't do the lowlights, and didn't charge him for the color. Luckily, he was very nice about it, and wants to come back to finish it. He wanted me to take some time to think about any suggestions I could come up with that would look good, because he is going to try not to touch it at home. And I mean anything, anything that could be done colorwise. He still at the off color blond and grey at the roots, but his hair is cut in an angled stacked bob now, so at least half his hair is off. So...anyone have any ideas or suggestions??? I have a week to think about it. Anything that would work? I would really appreciate anyone who is willing to help! |
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| hi sorry to hear what happened may be you should now try matrixs moderate colour removal and then try again but what you have to take into account that you should go a shade lighter rather than using black as the hair will be much more pourus be careful not to put the colour eraser on to the scalp once this is done i would then use neutral series if you want a cool blonde rather than a ash as the hair would be more pourus . It is hard to give advice as we cant see what the hair is pervously like i would personally take test cuttings first hope this helps you . .certain medication does effect the colour from working ie thryroid tablets can cause this and hormanal treatment which could contain streroides good luck shazzy |
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Thanks shazzy, the problem is we don't have color remover. I think it's because the company don't want to encourage corrective color. I know this is the only way, and I probably shouldn't have even taken the project on. I think the bleach would have worked if it wasn't so heavily coated. I'm tempted to go and purchase color eraser out of my pocket. Do you think I should? Other than that, is there anything else I could do as a work around? Probably not, maybe it's better he just grows it out, but he didn't want to look like that in between, and I don't blame him. Anyway, your idea would have been the perfect fix. Thanks so much for that! |
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| | | From: schelle | Sent: 8/2/2005 1:17 AM |
The only thing I can think of is to perform a malibu treatment to get the medication out of his hair. Follow that up with a bleach wash(or two) and a deep conditioning treatment. If he were my client I would tell him sorry you aren't going to be blonde today, let's see how light we can get you and make a compromise, we will work at getting you to your target color over the next several months. Its going to be the healthiest thing for his hair, anyway. Just a suggestion-Schelle |
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Thanks, that's a great suggestion. We do use Malibu 2000 in the salon, and it was what I thought might work also. Not just the medication, but it does remove somewhat of the color. As for the medication part, that was just a theory of my co-worker. He said he wasn't on medication, and I'm a little leary about asking him about that sort of medication, but I think I'm going to have to. This is great, because he was willing to go to any kind of color, even auburn. So, I guess we'll decide what color that will be when we see how light he will be after the initial process. See, now we're getting somewhere! |
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Have you given the matrix 1 800 number a call they are wonderful. I do believe in the hormone thing as a few years ago I watched and help this guy go to women she did turn out beautiful it took two years. Also did you know women on a period week or mid age women taking hermones perms and colors will not take the same. been there as well. Good luck |
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I haven't tried the Matrix number because we don't have the nessasary products they would suggest in the salon, but worth a try anyway. If hormonal changes in a woman's body will affect the way chemicals take, then it would make sense in this situation too, thanks. |
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HI STAR, SORRY TO SAY BUT IF I WHERE YOU I WOULD NOT HAVE DONE IT. THIS IS A COLOR CORRECTION, AND AN ALL DAY JOB , NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD ATTEMPT ON A TIME CRUNCH. YOU REALLY NEED TO BE AN EXPERT COLORIST FOR A JOB LIKE THIS. MOST BLACK HAIR COLORS ARE METALIC AND VERY HARD TO REMOVE. I WOULD HAVE REALLY DONE MY HOMEWORK BEFORE ATTEMPTING IT. YOU SHOULD HAVE CALLED A COLOR HOTLINE AND GOTTEN SOME ADVICE FORM THE COMPANY OF THE COLOR LINE YOUR USEING, THAT'S WHAT THEY'RE THERE FOR. THE ONE POSITIVE THING FROM YOUR EXPERIENC IS THAT YOU'LL KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT TIME YOU HAVE A CLIENT LIKE THAT. |
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BY THE WAY I USE TO WORK WITH A GIRL WHO IS A COLOR SPECIALIST AND SHE WOULD CHARGE 75 DOLLARS AN HOUR FOR JOBS LIKE THIS. |
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Oh I know! I was actually a little leary coming on here with this. I know I shouldn't have done it, and probably wouldn't do it again, however I do enjoy the challenge. It's true, I learned alot from this, and I don't mind learning through trial and error. I admit I have alot to learn in many areas, and hope that any experienced colorists on here would be willing to share their knoledge with those who need it. I love color and would love to call myself a colorist. I sure have gotten some great ideas!  |
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YA, I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN, WHEN I HAD A COLOR GO WRONG IT ACTUALLY MADE ME A BETTER COLORIST BECUASE I DIFFENTLY LEARNED FROM MY MISTAKES. I WOULD REALLY SUGGEST THAT YOU GET SOME KIND OF COLOR REMOVER, EVEN IF IT'S OUT OF YOUR OWN POCKEDT, YOUR ONLY HAS GOOD HAS THE TOOLS THAT YOU HAVE AVAILABLE TO YOU. IT'S GREAT TO THAT YOUR CLIENT WAS SO UNDERSTANING. WE HAD A CLIENT SUE OUR SALON FOR A BAD COLOR JOB THAT ONE OF OUR STYLIST DID ON HER. SHE WAS SUEING FOR THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS. SHE LOST OF COURSE, THE JUDGE JUST TOLD THE SALON TO GIVE HER, HER MONEY BACK I WOULD CALL A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT HOTLINES AND LET THEM GIVE YOU SOME SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO DO WHEN HE COMES BACK. YOU MIGHT FIND ONE THAT REALLY WORKS FOR YOU, ALSO ON BEHIND THE CHAIR .COM THERE IS COLOR SPECIALIST THAT YOU CAN EMAIL AND SEE WHAT SHE HAS TO SAY. LET ME KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT. |
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Black is so difficult though, especially if it's built up. We have a Master
Colorist who comes to our school to give classes and he calls black "like
cancer - you can't get rid of it." This is what he says - but he claims
that he tells clients in his salon to go home and buy a box at the drug
store if they want black - i'm not sure about that.
I've heard that Phantom from Schwarzkoph is a good color remover though. We
have it at school but I have not had any personal experience with it.
Speaking of black, i was given a client at school who came in for color and
cut. She had that Elvis Presley black hair - color pulled all the way
through every time - and she wanted to go to a lighter shade. Believe this
or not, the instructor gives me a tube of Socolor 4 with 20 volume - that's
all. I went to my mainstay at school, the theory instructor, who happened
to know this client 'cause she was a regular. She came out and tried a soap
cap with bleach but that black didn't budge.
School is so wacky - i can't wait to be done - K
>From: "Starliteny1" <[email protected]>
>Reply-To: "Salon Talk" <[email protected]>
>To: "Salon Talk" <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: Help! Ideas needed!
>Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 17:40:54 -0700
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> Thanks shazzy, the problem is we don't have color remover. I
>think it's because the company don't want to encourage corrective color. I
>know this is the only way, and I probably shouldn't have even taken the
>project on. I think the bleach would have worked if it wasn't so heavily
>coated. I'm tempted to go and purchase color eraser out of my pocket. Do
>you think I should? Other than that, is there anything else I could do as a
>work around? Probably not, maybe it's better he just grows it out, but he
>didn't want to look like that in between, and I don't blame him. Anyway,
>your idea would have been the perfect fix. Thanks so much for that!
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I'm surprised that your instructor actually gave you a bottle of color Valkyrie. But then, I didn't learn a thing about color in school. My neice used to have black color in her hair, and I put V-lite and 20 vol. on it with heat under the dryer. I just lifted it to brown and then highlighted it after, not perfect, but she wasn't paying for it.  Anyway, the guy stopped in today to tell me he is waiting for money right now before he attempts another try. I said I need time through, and then went through all the options with him. About me maybe having to pay out my pocket to get the color remover, or the Malibu treatment and the bleach wash and selecting an alternate color. He just said, relax, and he doesn't have the money right now anyway lol. So, at least he knows I'm trying. |
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Dearest starliteny1, Thank you for being so brave so as to ask such a question, even after coming so close to a disaster. We, as hairstylists, always seem to offer instant results, with low prices, to clients that do not entirely respect us. The correct procedure is to totally strip the old ( fantom ) color, with a product like "RUSK'S" Elmin8 or comparable. Then refoil Highlites and lowlites to achive desired grey blending. Discussing the full process , time and price should be included... before you start. But most would start, get their client trapped and applogise, to try and be able to finish the desired result. I'd be more than happy to help out in any way. |
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Thanks Geno, I will be sure to email you once we decide which route to take. And, I love the articles you write! |
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Rule number one that will not change is COLOR will not lift COLOR. You needed to do a color correction service and use either color remover or bleach to get that black out. After you remove the black to a pale tone you then Apply 500 series with 10 volume foiling it in. After this is done you apply a sync toner to all the hair to get the blonde highlights nuetralized in the right tone. |
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