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Hair Color Help : Highlighting over color
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(3 recommendations so far) Message 1 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1  (Original Message)Sent: 6/14/2004 1:59 AM
I had this client today that had really red haircolor, and natural medium brown roots. She wanted highlights, so I did a foiling on her, the technique part of it was great, but the part of the hair that had the red color was still a bit red even after 30 min (I used Vlite, no heat), and her roots were very light blond, so I used level 9 ash, (color sych) as a toner, thinking it would even everything out. Well, the color treated part of her hair did tone down a bit, but her roots stayed lighter, and                                                                                                     became a very nice platnum blond. She had a perm in it already, so with the curls I guess you can't really see into it that much, and she didn't notice, she seemed happy, but that's not to say she won't come back later. My question is, is there another method I could have used to create even results? (she has too much hair to use the cap method, to lighten the color first)  I suppose I could either fill the roots to make them darker, or lighten up the ends if I had to fix it, but I would like to know what I could have done differently for future reference. Thanks.
 
Amy                     


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 Message 3 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1Sent: 7/22/2004 12:25 AM
She wanted blonde highlights on top of her color, so I guess she wanted to keep the red. Either process sounds good, the red definately needed more time to process, so I should have thought of that first. I've never thought of being creative like that! Thanks!
 
 

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 Message 4 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamecutterj2000Sent: 8/14/2004 3:31 AM
The most impotant thing is communication with your client.  If she had planned to keep the red hair, a touch up and then hi-lites should be your plan of attack.  Explain to her that the hair porossity is so vastly different from root to end that an even tone hi-lite cannot be guaranteed otherwise. Lets face it, if she touches up her own hair a week or two after her hi-lites and turns them pink, she is still advertising work that you and your salon have done.

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 Message 5 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1Sent: 8/14/2004 3:40 AM
You're very right about communication! I don't think she planed on keeping the red, it was just more important that she got highlights in there. Her hair is very curly and long, and she is not the type to have it cut much, and you could barely see the difference in the tone. As a follow up to all this, is that she was in the salon a few days ago, she brought in one of the consumers from one of the homes for the handicaped for a haircut, and she mentioned that she had gotten alot of compliments on her hair since then, so I feel alot better about it lol.

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 Message 6 of 17 in Discussion 
From: debbienpSent: 9/28/2004 11:32 AM
To bleach over colored hair.
1st. Start with even  chemically colored hair, from roots to ends.
2. Then do highlights with foils or cap.
3. Tone if desired.

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 Message 7 of 17 in Discussion 
From: smarievSent: 9/28/2004 4:28 PM
BLEACH IS VERY HARSH TO USE ON COLOR TREATED HAIR.   USE  A PRODUCT CALLED SUNGLITZ,, IT WILL LIGHTEN AND TONE IN ONE STEP,, AND HAS AN ADDED CONDITIONER FOR PROTECTION

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 Message 8 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameCORPUSCHRISTILISASent: 9/30/2004 1:16 PM
ISN'T SUNGLITZ A LIGHTENER ( BLEACH ) ? OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING? BEACUSE I DON'T THINK IT'S A HIGH LIFT TINT. BLEACH IS AN OLD TERM THAT ME DON'T LIKE TO USE ANYMORE. IT'S TO HARSH A WORD.

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 Message 9 of 17 in Discussion 
From: debbienpSent: 10/18/2004 1:24 PM
old stylist use old terms. He He He
bye for now,
debbienp

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 Message 10 of 17 in Discussion 
From: racine562Sent: 2/27/2005 10:48 PM
i am a student  at cerritos  and i have a project that is due and i need to find 6 hair color forulas can anyone help me tell me a site to visit or something
 

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 Message 11 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1Sent: 2/27/2005 10:55 PM
Hi racine, if you look to the left on this site, there is an area called matrix step by step techniques, and it has several color formulas on it, hope that helps!

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 Message 12 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameMissEvettSent: 9/13/2005 3:52 AM
I would have used a higher vol on the built up red area than i would have on the brown/natural color... ie; u mix two bowls of lightener, keeping them 1 or 2 levels lighter (depending on the difference between the natural color and the desired color level.your main focus is the lift of the nat color first, then up the vol whatever # levels you feel it will take to achieve your desired color level.
 

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 Message 13 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1Sent: 9/13/2005 6:58 AM
Thanks MissEvett, so what you're saying is I should have used 20 vol, and 30-40 on the red?
 
 
 

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 Message 14 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameMissEvettSent: 9/13/2005 5:31 PM
Thats right you apply the lower vol on the nat hair to the line of where the red starts down (if you pass its ok wont hurt).Then you use the higher vol on the red from line down but you dont want to pass it (itll defeat the whole pourpose).
when you fold the foil fold the bottom up to the line where ever it may be,then fold again to cover the rest of the hair to the base let sit desired time keeping track and checking it.
The results wonderful try it youll find many ways to help fix problem hair this way.
I use this tec all the time for correctives especially.
 

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 Message 15 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameColourMePinkPrincessSent: 9/19/2005 4:43 PM
Amy,
Having a good client consultation is key. You really need to know what you are working over top of before starting any chemical service. There are certain chemicals that do not mix well on the hair. Feria is one of them. Feria is not easy to lift and the lightener will boil and bubble in the packets sometimes becoming liquified and oozzing out of the packets.Another color you need to be careful working over top of is Wella's "Magma" It is a unique colour that thinks it is a lightener that thinks its a color. It is simular to fabric dye and cannot be lifted out of the hair. The only wany to get rid of Magma is to color over it. Alsways be sure to do a good client consult first. Some stylists think colour is fogiving and just throw whatever on and then they are suprised wby what happens. Take some color thoery classes. Know why you are mixing what you are mixing and know exactly what you should expect. Natural colour will obviously lift quicker so you also could have used a lower vol with the lightener at the regrowth area. Color matching can be difficult when you are dealing with horizontal bands.
 
Good luck :o)
Pink

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 Message 16 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamescissor_queenSent: 9/19/2005 5:54 PM
You explained that very well, princess. I agree with you completely. We are never too old to learn about color. With all the 'cheap' products out there, we have to be very careful how we mix and apply our colors. Communication is key. I've even had clients try to lie about coloring their hair at home. Like, really! I'm a pro here! We need to have them understand that mixing our products and THEIR products might cause a disaster. Education for ourselves is a necessity. We can then educate our clients.

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 Message 17 of 17 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameStarliteny1Sent: 9/19/2005 10:00 PM
I hardly have any problem fixing or changing natural hair or hair that has been professionaly done. In my opinion, hair color shouldn't even be available to the public. If the products you speak of does that kind of irreversable damage to the hair, they should not be on the market. They both make our jobs more difficult, at the same time taking them away. I've had people coming in with boxes of color in their hands, asking which one they should use. After explaining why they shouldn't use those peticular products, or what they would have to do first to achieve the results, they then ask "how do I do that?" I say nothing more than that's not what you do, that's what we do. There are no "cheap" or "quick" fixes, and they need to realize that. The first step I believe, is to not make color or perms available to the public.

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