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Ask the Armourer : Commonwealth Blank Adapters (Part 3)
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Reply
 Message 1 of 3 in Discussion 
From: MasterGunner01  (Original Message)Sent: 6/7/2007 3:30 AM
[MG Note:  In Part 2 we discussed the different types of Australian-built BFA's.  Now we'll look at those of Britain (UK) and Canada for alternate solutions to the blank firing problem.]
 
Britain (UK)
 
L1A1 -- stamped steel design for the L1A1 SLR is very similar to the Canadian C1 BFA.
L1A2 -- redesign of the L1A1 that adds a modified retainer, washer, and wing nut.
L1A2 (Modified) -- redesign of the L1A2 with a modified retainer, washer, spring, and wing nut.
L4A1 -- an interim design superseded by the L6A1, which it resembles.
L6A1 -- a large, heavy steel casting that was the final BFA design for the L1A1 rifle.
 
 
 
 
Above:  Top and side views of the British L6A1 BFA.  This BFA is the heaviest of all Commonwealth designs.  (Photos:  D.S. Solutions)
 
The L1A1 through L1A2 (Modified) BFA's are very similar to the Canadian C1 BFA and will not be covered here.  Likewise, the description of the L4A1 is very similar to that of the standard L6A1.  We'll confine our discussion to the standardized L6A1.  The L6A1 BFA has an OAL of 6.78 inches, nut-end cap of 0.82 inches, and a body length of 5.96 inches.  The body has a large O.D. of 1.26 inches and a small O.D. of 1.03 inches.  Width of the nut-end (across flats) is 1.54 inches with a cap diameter of 1.17 inches.
 
The L6A1 is two heavy castings that screw together to form the BFA.  The rear part of the body has a cutout for the flash eliminator bayonet lug.  The threaded restrictor unscrews far enough to allow insertion of the flash eliminator onto the restrictor tube; then, the heavy, nut-shaped, spring-loaded end is screwed on to the rear body.  As the nut-shaped end tightens, the spring-loaded cap keeps the end from unscrewing.  The rifle is now ready to fire blanks.  Removal of the BFA is the reverse of installation.
 
British L6A1 BFA's are painted yellow.
 

 Above:  Installing the British L6A1 BFA on an L1A1 rifle.  The nut-end is unscrewed until the rear body has enough clearance; the restrictor tube is inserted in the flash eliminator; the rear body latched over the bayonet lug; and the nut-end is screwed into the body until tight.  Note that the BFA does not come entirely apart.  It only opens far enough for installation or removal from the rifle flash eliminator.  (Photo: D.S. Solutions).
 
Canada
 
C1 -- stamped steel design for C1/C1A1 SLR's and C2/C2A1 AR's.
C2 -- redesign of C1 with an added retainer spring.
 
The C1 BFA is a simple stamping with the restrictor plug riveted into the end.  The C1 is a one-piece design that inserts over the flash eliminator of the SLR or AR.  The restrictor plug goes down the flash eliminator and the long end of the BFA has a notch to latch it to the bayonet lug of the rifle.  The bottom of the BFA is spring steel with a hole stamped in it for the bayonet lug.  A later version of the C1 BFA, called C1A1, had an extra retaining spring added.  The C1A1 BFA has an OAL of 4.23 inches and a body O.D.of 0.83 inches.  The C1A1 body has two spring steel retainers 0.80 inch and 1.00 inch wide, respectively.  After the BFA is snapped onto the flash eliminator, the rifle is ready to fire blanks.  Removal is the reverse of installation.
 
Canadian C1 or C1A1 BFA's are painted yellow.
 
 
 
Above:  The Canadian C1 or C1A1 BFA as seen from the top.  Unlike the Australian and British BFA's, the Canadian design uses simple stampings in its construction.  Canadian BFA's do not have a hole in the restrictor plug.  Instead, gas is bled around the restrictor plug and exhausted out the large cuts at the front of the BFA.  (Photo: The Dealer Warehouse)
 


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Reply
 Message 2 of 3 in Discussion 
From: MasterGunnerSent: 7/28/2007 3:43 AM
Typo correction:
Under Canada change C2 to "C1A1 -- redesign of C1 with an added retainer spring."

Reply
 Message 3 of 3 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameSprMissfireSent: 9/2/2007 9:38 AM
What buggers to clean afterwards though.
In the end was taught a quick and easy way by using vinigar and ended up using this trick on the piston and gas plug but we had to be quick as once we dried the parts off as they tended to rust if left as all the oil had been removed.