As noted previously, a cheek piece or cheekrest is necessary to correctly position the shooter's eye behind the scope for consistent shot placement.  This can be done with an adjustable, strap-on cheek piece similar to that made by Smith Enterprises or the adjustable "Ultimate Cheekrest" by Rooster 33 that permanently attaches to the rifle stock.  In the first instance, no modification to the rifle stock is required.  In the second instance, the rifle stock is drilled for two screws that secure the adjustable cheekrest at the required height.  Although permanently attached to the rifle, the Rooster 33 cheekrest can be lowered when not in use.

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Once you've gotten your cheek piece or cheekrest, it's time to consider rifle sights and rings.  You have two choices: (1) Attach the scope to the mount foundation with tactical rings.  The scope cannot be removed from the foundation without the need to re-zero the rifle to check for point-of-impact shifts.  (2) Use a quick-detachable, throw lever base with tactical rings to mount the scope or use throw lever rings to attach the scope to the foundation.   A sample of the first method is the A.R.M.S. No. 19 throw lever base and Precision Reflex, Inc. 30mm tactical rings.

 

 

 

 

Now that you have done the preparation, it is time to put a rifle scope in those rings.  A cheap rifle scope is no bargain: the optics can fog up at the critical moment, the scope may not be bright enough to transmit light efficiently, or the windage and elevation adjustments may not repeat consistently.  It is important to put a good tactical scope on this rifle and such scopes do not come without cost.  Depending on the scope that you choose, expect to invest at least $400 or more in this scope.  Here are the characteristics of your scope: (1) it should be nitrogen-filled to prevent the entry of moisture or dirt and keep from fogging at the critical moment; (2) it should have large, easily manipulated target adjustment knobs and side focus is preferred; (3) adjustments should be positive and should be felt as well as audible -- the former is more important than the latter; (4) a fixed power scope is preferred with 10 power being a good all-around magnification; (5) an etched reticle is preferred (it won't break); (6) a 30mm duaneter tube is preferred because it transmits ambient light more efficiently than a 1-inch diameter tube, (7) the Mil-Dot reticle is a good choice that allows range estimation and targeting; and (8) the quality of the optical glass allows for a smaller objective lens -- cheaper brands of scopes use large objective scopes to make up for inferior optical glass.  Special light transmitting coatings cannot make up for inferior glass.

 

Once you've got you candidate optics, there are a few simple checks you can do to check it out.  First, take a look through the wrong end of the scope -- the objective end.  This will pinpoint defects or irregularities in the optical glass. 

 

Second, take a cardboard box, cut two idental width and depth V-notches.  Put the scope tube in the V-notches and sight through the ocular end of the scope at a well-lit surface.  Rotate the scope in the V-notches 360 degrees while observing the reticle.  If the reticle position appears to change as the scope rotates, select anothe scope.

 

Three, check the scope brightness in good light and dim light.  If possible have a cheaper quality scope of the same power along when you do this.  You can readily see the difference in the light gathering quality of the candidate scope.  Objects observed through the 30mm diameter tube with quality optical glass will appear very bright when compared to the cheaper quality scope.

 

  

 

The last two items you need for your rifle are an Anti-Cant Device (ACD).  The ACD is a bubble level that attaches to the tube of the scope.  It is a simple device that helps prevent "canting" of the rifle, unintended movement either to the left or right.  The device can be installed near the front or back of the scope tube to suit the shooter.  It can also be positioned up or down in case see-through rings are used. 

 

 

 

The last item for your rifle is a good bipod.  The best of the best is the Parker-Hale.  However, this bipod is horrendously expensive.  The Versa Pod, a high quality copy of the P-H is a good runner-up choice.  Bipods must not be attached to the barrel or the gas cylinder of the M14/M1A.  It will adversely affect accuracy.  Instead, the bipod should be attached to the stock.  The Versa Pod is attached by the Mil-Std-1913 accessory rail (Model 150-807), Mil-Std-1913 rail adapter (Model 150-611), and Versa Pod bipod (Model 150-001).  The bipod itself is similar to that used on the World War 2 British Bren light machine gun.  The bipod itself has limited traverse, is self-leveling, and has skids on its feet.  It is adjustable from 9 to 12 inches in height and can fold forwards or backwards.