Restore soil nutrients

Months of rain through autumn and winter will have washed away a large proportion of the soluble nutrients in your soil. As soon as trees, shrubs, roses and hedges surge into new growth their roots will be searching for food, and this is an ideal time to provide it.

Sprinkle a general fertiliser, such as blood fish and bone, pelleted poultry manure or something similar, over the soil between established plants. Where possible, hoe into the soil's surface.

Clumps of developing bulbs and perennials also benefit from feeding during spring. Later in April apply a high-nitrogen feed to all lawns, too.

Lift congested perennials

Congested clumps of perennials should be lifted and divided before new shoots develop which could be damaged in the process. Aim to replant small healthy outer portions from clumps, discarding the old centre-piece. Prepare soil by digging in compost and fertiliser before planting.

Give lawns a rake-over

Months of wet weather will have caused moss to become a problem in many lawns. Thick moss quickly smothers out grass, so action is needed this spring to remove it, boost grass growth and improve surface drainage across the lawn.

Chemical moss killers can be used to destroy existing moss, but this will still need to be raked out. Far better to use a powered lawn rake to scarify the lawn, raking out moss and debris. Models can be hired for a weekend if you don't own one.

Afterwards, fork over the whole area to improve surface drainage. Increase frequency of mowing as growth dictates. Later, in April or early May, apply fertiliser and check regularly for weeds, digging out any that you find.

If lawns are unaffected by moss trim them with the mower blades set high if conditions remain dry.

Summer bulbs

Many summer-flowering bulbs can be planted in March and April. In mild areas, dahlia tubers can be planted outside, covered with about 10cm (4in) of soil. In cold regions, delay planting until later in April. In the coming months, plant groups of gladioli at intervals to extend their flowering season. Grow lilies in pots so that they can be moved into the garden to fill any gaps.

Frost protection

Keep a few sheets of fleece handy to protect new shoots and blooms of shrubs when sharp frosts are forecast. Camellia and magnolia blooms can quickly become blackened by frost and the newly-emerging leaves of Japanese maples can be scorched. If conditions turn cold and frosty, move pot-grown shrubs to a sheltered position and wrap in protective fleece.

Slugs and snails

Watch out for slugs and snails. Trap them under tiles or grapefruit skins and dispose of them daily. Sprinkling a layer of sand, grit or crushed eggshells around plants may help. Alternatively, sparingly scatter slug pellets around plants most at risk. Never leave pellets in piles. Cover pellets with a tile resting on pebbles to keep them out of sight of birds and animals.

Seed sowing

Keep sowing seeds of half-hardy bedding plants in trays in the greenhouse or on window-sills. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out into small individual pots or space out in seed trays. If bushy plants need more space, pot up on their own. Water regularly and feed weekly.

Revitalise your alpine garden

Whether you have a small alpine garden in a container or an impressive rock garden, now is a good time to clear away dead or overgrown plants to make space for new subjects. Garden centres offer a good range, from houseleeks to miniature shrubs like hebe, and they usually cost about ú1.50 to ú2 each, sometimes less.

Improve the planting soil by digging in extra gravel to increase drainage. Then spread a mulch of gravel around the alpines after planting.

Hard prune shrubs

Prune back tall old stems on <PLANTID=8990>Buddleja davidii</PLANTID> and <PLANTID=477>Leycesteria formosa</PLANTID>. Many dogwoods and willows, grown as clumps and valued for their colourful winter stems, should also be cut back hard now, right down to a stubby base, about 30cm (12in) from the ground. Other shrubs that respond well to hard pruning include the golden-leaved elder, smoke bush and purple hazel, which will then produce fresh young growth and often brighter and larger leaves.

Weeds

Start spot treating lawns to get rid of any perennial weeds or moss. Hoe during dry weather to prevent weed seedlings establishing.

Mulch and be merry

Spread a thick layer of compost or rotted manure as a mulch around established shrubs and along the base of hedges to conserve soil moisture and keep down annual weeds.

Clean paving

Pressure-spray paving and steps to remove slippery algae and dirt.

Pruning

Large and spreading bushes of Brachyglottis 'Sunshine' can now be pruned back hard to their woody base to encourage fresh new shoots to grow.

Warming the soil

At this time of year, cold, wet soil can prove fatal to early sowings made outside. By covering prepared beds with cloches you will warm up the soil, protect it from hard frost and keep the rain off. Leave the cloches in place for a couple of weeks, then rake the soil surface before sowing seed or planting out young seedlings. Finally, put the cloches back over them to give your young plants a speedy start.

Stock up on growing bags

Look for special offers on growing bags and compost, and get plenty in store for all your needs. Choose peat-free or low-peat composts where possible.

Perennials

Place plant support frames over clumps of tall perennials so that new stems will grow up through them and hide them completely

Control climbers

Control the growth of climbing plants on walls of houses and outbuildings if they start to block gutters or grow under tiles. Cut them away from doors and windows too.