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| | From:  Starliteny1 (Original Message) | Sent: 7/30/2005 4:25 AM |
Ok, here's my situation-there is a fairly new client where I work. He is a very feminine man, and dresses up and wears his hair like a woman. I always do his eyebrows, but today, he also wanted color. So, he comes in with black haircolor, with grey roots. He wanted to be blond with black lowlights. Well, the first thing I thought of is that I should have stripped out the black color, which I know is difficult, time was an issue, and I was concered about the condition it would leave his hair in. Instead, what I came up with which seemed like a good idea at the time, is that I should leave the black where is was, put on a blond color, and highlight with foils to break up the black, and then lowlight the roots with black. I used V-lite 40 vol, with Socolor 510 for 45 mins. I really believed the lightner would go through the black at least somewhat, but it didn't really. Plus, he didn't like the shade of blond that came out, besides the fact that some of his grey didn't even take. My coworker who knows a little more than me said that he is probably on hormone medication to grow his breasts, and medication would make color not take, plus, he probably the black color was probably coated on so much because he did it at home. So anyway, of course I didn't do the lowlights, and didn't charge him for the color. Luckily, he was very nice about it, and wants to come back to finish it. He wanted me to take some time to think about any suggestions I could come up with that would look good, because he is going to try not to touch it at home. And I mean anything, anything that could be done colorwise. He still at the off color blond and grey at the roots, but his hair is cut in an angled stacked bob now, so at least half his hair is off. So...anyone have any ideas or suggestions??? I have a week to think about it. Anything that would work? I would really appreciate anyone who is willing to help! |
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I'm surprised that your instructor actually gave you a bottle of color Valkyrie. But then, I didn't learn a thing about color in school. My neice used to have black color in her hair, and I put V-lite and 20 vol. on it with heat under the dryer. I just lifted it to brown and then highlighted it after, not perfect, but she wasn't paying for it.  Anyway, the guy stopped in today to tell me he is waiting for money right now before he attempts another try. I said I need time through, and then went through all the options with him. About me maybe having to pay out my pocket to get the color remover, or the Malibu treatment and the bleach wash and selecting an alternate color. He just said, relax, and he doesn't have the money right now anyway lol. So, at least he knows I'm trying. |
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Dearest starliteny1, Thank you for being so brave so as to ask such a question, even after coming so close to a disaster. We, as hairstylists, always seem to offer instant results, with low prices, to clients that do not entirely respect us. The correct procedure is to totally strip the old ( fantom ) color, with a product like "RUSK'S" Elmin8 or comparable. Then refoil Highlites and lowlites to achive desired grey blending. Discussing the full process , time and price should be included... before you start. But most would start, get their client trapped and applogise, to try and be able to finish the desired result. I'd be more than happy to help out in any way. |
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Thanks Geno, I will be sure to email you once we decide which route to take. And, I love the articles you write! |
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Rule number one that will not change is COLOR will not lift COLOR. You needed to do a color correction service and use either color remover or bleach to get that black out. After you remove the black to a pale tone you then Apply 500 series with 10 volume foiling it in. After this is done you apply a sync toner to all the hair to get the blonde highlights nuetralized in the right tone. |
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Thanks wgdorhr2, the problem with that is that we don't have color remover, and the bleach wouldn't lift it properly. Besides that, he still had grey roots which even the 500 series didn't do much for it because of the medication we suspected he was on. He also wanted black lowlights going through the blond. In this case, because of the medication and the situation with the lack of proper product, there is not much that can be done. |
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Oh bleach will left it! It just takes about 3 times as long as you could imagine for it to do so. If the hair is short enough use a cap to pull it through and bleach away. Black is the hardest color to remove but can be done. |
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It's shorter now, so maybe I could pull it through a cap, and then apply the color, and the lowlights after, great idea! |
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Just remember that when you have to put the black in you will have to fill or it will turn green , since you have already bleached once you will have a fight to get a true color if you do not fill. What color line are you using? My option if the hair is short is to bleach all the way out tone then pull through the cap heavily enough to put the black back in. |
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I'm using Matrix V-lite, Socolor, and colorsynch. |
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You might want to try color grafhics using green pigment with a good shot of purple to remove the black I have used this to get rid of box color and the hair still feels like hair. may take two applications add heat. |
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I totally agree with the color graphics. I have encountered situations like this with my clients and even on my own hair. Black is a mission to get out...but I have found that it can be done...you must emphasize to your client that they use some sort of treatment on their hair perhaps even come in fore a few conditioning treatments. And I always find it helps to clarify their hair under the dryer first before I got to do any color correction. Clarifying works great as well if someone is on medication. |
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Hi Star,  It sounds like you had a serious color problem with the black hair. This is a tough area and it is almost impossible to get the black out and have it look good. You were in the area of COLOR CORRECTION!! I would have had to do a strand test to see what, if anything would pull the color out. Now, I am in the same salon that you are, I believe, so we have no color remover, V-Lite with 40 V is the strongest we have. Next, he would have to be told that he is a work in progress, color correction is almost always a few times and a lot of patience!! People are pretty good about this, usually. Oh, I also start with a clarifying treatment, it helps remove unwanted chemicals, and gives you an idea of where to go! Have you called the So Color hot line for help? You may need to try that also.I had a Walmart employee, male with long hair, colored it himself, black! He asked me about removing it, I told him it is ify and it is color correction, you will have to pay by the hour for this, he decided to keep the black. I have another Walmart employee who is female, very long, straight, black hair, although we use 504 on her hair it looks black, wanted to lighten hers once also, told her the pit falls of lightening dark hair, she kept her dark hair. At least hers is SoColor so I know what is on there. Hope I gave you some ideas, or some insight. Good luck Instruct 60 |
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When I asked the DM about color eraser, she looked confused and thought I meant the color remover that you use to clean color off the skin lol. When I explained what it did she looked at me strange and said, "you don't know how to do that?" You have to mix 2 oz of lightner with 1 ounce of developer, and 1 ounce of shampoo. Or something similar, I don't remember the ratio offhand. But yes, the only option we have is v-lite and 40 vol, and it's going to lighten as much as it's going to lighten. I now know never to promise blond. |
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The DM's are soooo company, the formula that she gave you is a bleach soap cap right out of the basic cosmetology text book!! LOL Can you believe that? Well, yes I can actually, it is just something that the company does not want us doing, I guess, liability is a big factor! But, the fact is you need the color remover to do this job. It would help with a lot of other jobs too. I have been down that road with the, can I get some color remover?, nowhere. We are very short handed this summer, and believe it or not we had a full staff until June, 3rd, a stylist went on medical leave for carpal tunnel and has still not returned. Well, we keep busy! |
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