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Good ?, I want to hear about the answers. |
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If I was going to fill your hair I would use color sync. I haven't done a fill in many years come to think of it. |
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well I primarily use goldwell so I would fill the hair with the appropriate color pigment or filler ie. red, copper, gold. Towel blot then dry it into the hair and then apply the appropriate color formula for the hair/grey coverage. |
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Thank you all for your replies. I use color sync too, and I really like manda's suggestion. It's less time consuming, and I've done that kind of fill while toning highlights before.  |
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Everyone has their own recipe for back tints. I do alot of color corrections as its a specialty for me and I really enjoy it. I'm assuming you have someone who is quite bleached or lightened and wants to go back to darker or their own color? If so, I would fill it with something like color sync (love that line) or any semi/demi permanent color first. If the client is a level 5 and the bleached part is 9 or 10--really light--then apply level 6 or 7 very gold, no brown. (On really platinums, I use a level 8 as it will grab and go darker) You want to pick a fill color about 1-2 shades lighter than your final result and VERY warm, typically gold or orange. Lightened and bleached hair will REJECT the warm and come out ashy if you don't put in a very warm color with no neutral to fill. Put it on with no heat for about 10-15 minutes. I do wash mine out as it takes better than adding permanent on top later. I don't condition then as I want to keep it porous. Then i like to air dry only enough so its not soaking wet but more just damp but not dry. Then you said there is some regrowth of grey or brown? Then I apply the regrowth color with the target color in permanent color, so we are talking a 5N with 20 vol to just the regrowth. When that is all on, I wait until last 10-15 min and then typically put a permanent color on the rest of the hair that is filled with low peroxide, like 5 vol or 10 vol. Hit the mid lengths first all over head, then last 5-8 min, hit the ends. If the roots got a 5N, the ends would get a 6N mixed with a touch of 5G or 6G just to keep it from looking too ashy, unless ashy is your desired outcome. If desired outcome is much warmer, I sometimes put in some red at same level. I NEVER walk away from it and look at that clock always. Just a few minutes too long can make darker ends as that hair is very porous. I always tell the client that it will fade about 1/2 shade in the first few washings and that is normal. It usually makes them feel better..ha ha. I also tell the client that it will fade some cause it was previously bleached/lightened and it will take a few more color treatments to get them back to their natural color. The next time they come in, I usually just run Color Sync (any semi or demi-no ammonia) on ends to refresh what has faded. I sell them (usually insisting) they buy some color protect shampoo. The sulfate-free ones are the best for the back tints. Hope this helps. |
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Thanks Karla, this is excactly what I was trying to do. I haven't heard from this woman about the color, and it's been a few weeks. She said something about the top salons not wanting to do it, which was a red flag for me. She emailed me a picture, which looked like a level 5 reddish brown, and she said she wanted it just like that, but said she didn't want any red when I told her what the picture was hmm... I told her it's best to go lighter than level 5, because it could be a big shock, she's at a level 10 now. I also explained that I never promise excact results with color correction. |
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