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Everyone has their own recipe for back tints. I do alot of color corrections as its a specialty for me and I really enjoy it. I'm assuming you have someone who is quite bleached or lightened and wants to go back to darker or their own color? If so, I would fill it with something like color sync (love that line) or any semi/demi permanent color first. If the client is a level 5 and the bleached part is 9 or 10--really light--then apply level 6 or 7 very gold, no brown. (On really platinums, I use a level 8 as it will grab and go darker) You want to pick a fill color about 1-2 shades lighter than your final result and VERY warm, typically gold or orange. Lightened and bleached hair will REJECT the warm and come out ashy if you don't put in a very warm color with no neutral to fill. Put it on with no heat for about 10-15 minutes. I do wash mine out as it takes better than adding permanent on top later. I don't condition then as I want to keep it porous. Then i like to air dry only enough so its not soaking wet but more just damp but not dry. Then you said there is some regrowth of grey or brown? Then I apply the regrowth color with the target color in permanent color, so we are talking a 5N with 20 vol to just the regrowth. When that is all on, I wait until last 10-15 min and then typically put a permanent color on the rest of the hair that is filled with low peroxide, like 5 vol or 10 vol. Hit the mid lengths first all over head, then last 5-8 min, hit the ends. If the roots got a 5N, the ends would get a 6N mixed with a touch of 5G or 6G just to keep it from looking too ashy, unless ashy is your desired outcome. If desired outcome is much warmer, I sometimes put in some red at same level. I NEVER walk away from it and look at that clock always. Just a few minutes too long can make darker ends as that hair is very porous. I always tell the client that it will fade about 1/2 shade in the first few washings and that is normal. It usually makes them feel better..ha ha. I also tell the client that it will fade some cause it was previously bleached/lightened and it will take a few more color treatments to get them back to their natural color. The next time they come in, I usually just run Color Sync (any semi or demi-no ammonia) on ends to refresh what has faded. I sell them (usually insisting) they buy some color protect shampoo. The sulfate-free ones are the best for the back tints. Hope this helps. |
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