|
|
Reply
| | From: Jacob (Original Message) | Sent: 2/28/2005 3:29 PM |
I am going to be making the woodworkers chess set from the Thompson book out of some glues up, 1 1/2" red Oak, and would like to hear some suggestions as for that blades people have used for this type and thickness of wood in the past. Also what speed range should I have my saw set at, I have the Dremel #1680 16" Variable-Speed Scroll Saw. Currently I have been using either a #5R or #5universal I also have some #7 blades that I plan on trying. But your suggestions are always appreciated. Jacob |
|
First
Previous
2-12 of 12
Next
Last
|
Reply
| |
Jacob, I love compound cutting, 1 1/2" Oak is a challenge. I use PGR (Precision Ground Reverse) blades for most of my compound cuts. These are reverse skip tooth blades that are ground instead of stamped, they last much longer and are much more agressive. Depending on how intricate the cut is, I use either a #7 or a #9. To help keep the blade from flexing too much, I tighten the tension more than I would normally. With the PGR blades you are not going to be able to go into a point, turn the blade and come back out again (the blades are just too thick), you will need to experiment with your patterns to figure the best way to cut them. the mailbox on the left is cut out of 1 1/2" Oak (even the feet). Good Luck, Jeff |
|
Reply
| |
I have had a tough time cutting compond with red oak. I have some PGR coming from Mike, and I have heard they are the best for this job.
Jeff, I cut the mailbox stamp holder, but my stamps hang up. Did you have this trouble?
Deena |
|
Reply
| |
Deena, I haven't had trouble with the stamps hanging up since I made this change. I always cut about 1/8" off of the top of the bottom piece that goes up inside to take away the sharp edge that is formed when just cutting the pattern, this seems to help. Jeff |
|
Reply
| 0 recommendations | Message 5 of 12 in Discussion |
|
This message has been deleted by the author. |
| |
Reply
| | From: Jacob | Sent: 3/1/2005 1:53 PM |
I started cutting out the peices last night, and I tried some the #5 and #7 that I had and the #5 seemed to do better, and make the cuts a little easier than the #7 did, The cuts aren't really that intricate, just a lot of sharp turns that need to be made. I have attached a low res shot of a few of the patterns for the King, Queen, and Bishop, jus tto give you an idea what I am talking about. I redrew them In Adobe Illustrator from the patterns in the book, just to make them easier for me to cut instead of trying to follow the black lines, this way I cam make them what ever color I want, and can resize them even easier. Any suggestions as to how fast or slow I should have my saw set when I am cutting these? Jacob |
| thompsonchess.pdf |
Reply
| |
Jacob, I run my saw as fast as possible without causing smoke, this also tends to keep the piece from jumping as much. You will find a speed that the saw just runs with less vibration. You can slow down the saw on the second side of the compound pieces, because you have already created a saw kerf, the sawdust has a place to go and seems make the piece cut much easier on the second side. Good luck, Jeff |
|
Reply
| |
I have that book too Jacob and was going to try and do the woodworkers chess set soon too. I have some poplar at home I was going to use to do this. I was going to use some FD #5 blades and see how they went cutting it. I also got the Noah Ark compount book and it came with some blades, will use some of those for the chess set if the FDs dont go as well. Brett |
|
Reply
| |
Please clue me in on what "Thompson book" ya'll are tralking about. And where can I get it? I'd love to try my hand at the chess pieces. Thanks, Harry |
|
Reply
| |
its called Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make, Fox Chapel has it. |
|
Reply
| | From: FD-Mike | Sent: 4/12/2005 5:35 PM |
Hi Jacob, Diana Thompson who makes a lot of compound patterns and does the cutting als, likes to use the FD-Polar # 5 and # 7. You don't need blades with reverse teeth. Have good tension on the blade and let the blade do the cutting. When not, the blade starts to cut with a bevel. Mike M |
|
Reply
| | From: Jacob | Sent: 4/14/2005 2:59 PM |
Thanks Mike for the tip, I have been using some #5 blades without might problem, and am just about finished with the set, Once I get the pieces finished and stained, I will post some pictures. Jacob |
|
First
Previous
2-12 of 12
Next
Last
|
|
|