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| | From: Karmas-BH (Original Message) | Sent: 5/2/2006 1:29 PM |
I've been meaning to run this by the group and see if it helps anyone or if anybody has any comments. As I've mentioned many times, I have a rotten saw. It has too short a stroke to use... (cant think of what they are called!) the blades that have reversed teeth on the bottom, so I have a lot of cleaning up to do when a cut is finished. I started using an old (ends used up) utility blade to scrape the back after each cut. It doesn't get everything but I think it helps the end result a lot. Also, scraping does not put dust in the air the way sanding would. Anyone else tried anything like this? Christine
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Hi
Christine J
I also use a sharp scraper blade on larger
openings. For small cuts I use 150 grit and sand after every one or two cuts,
so by the time you’ve finished cutting, the sanding is all done and you
don’t have to worry about breaking fragile pieces. Have you tried burning
off the fuzzies with a mini blow torch? That works quite well too.
Regards
Sue
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I do that a lot. A friend turned me onto the idea since he does custom refinishing of old furniture and always uses a cabinet scraper, a flat blade with a bur that you pull across the wood and it really gives a clean, smooth final finish. Anyway, between a utility razor blade and jewelers files, the majority of my fuzzies are removed. I've done too much damage sanding delicate work but do sand when I can get away with it. A good sanding BEFORE I cut seems to go a long way too. ~Andy |
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| (1 recommendation so far) | Message 4 of 15 in Discussion |
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Have heard of a lot of different ways in getting rid of them, I guess whatever is quickest and easiest is the best. Your idea sounds worth a try. I use reverse tooth blades on most of my work but some fuzzies escape and I use the mouse sander to get them off. But like Andy said, it depends whether there are delicate areas on it that you may not want to risk by running a sander over it. Brett |
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FWIW I keep a sanding sponge at the scroll saw and sand the backside every few cutouts... otherwise the fuzzies interfere with it sitting flat. When I'm done, I try to gently sand the fuzzies off or I use riffler/jeweler files or I use a butane torch, but I don't know exactly how I decide which I'll use... none works perfectly every time. Cheaper, softer plywoods have a lot more fuzzies. Spence |
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You can use a propane toruch and litly real litly brush the flame over the back of your cut out. I read about this in one of the magazines I get and waited sometime before I tried it. Wish I hadn't be so leary about the results, like burn marks etc.. It works and works well, just be real careful and just take a few fuzzies at a time away with each pas. \ |
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Christine - I tend to have less fuzzies if I put a stiff piece of cardboard behind my wood...not the kind that has the stuff glued between sheets, but just a single hard piece..I've found them in shipping boxes, sometimes picture frames. But the blade seems to rip it up on the bottom and make the wood not so much! Doesn't take all of them away...but it works for me...! Connie |
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Great responses,thanks! Sue, yep, I clean up after a few cuts, keeps it simple and its easier when you still have a lot of 'support'. Haven't really tried the blow torch yet, cant afford a good one : ( Andy, Yes, I also use small files for what gets missed, I love those little suckers! Do you sand the backs before cutting? I always sand the fronts really well but didn't consider the doing the back. Ayone else care to comment on that? Spence, I think you'd find scraping does it better than sanding. I've found sanding doesn't always get the 'bumps' and what not off the back. Also works great after drilling the holes, clears everything away without clogging up the holes. Connie, I have done that before but find its more likely to 'snag' and cause me problems, maybe that is an issue with my saw more than anything? Lets hope this little discussion can help someone else too, wouldn't that be great?! Christine
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| | From: tas2181 | Sent: 5/4/2006 3:34 PM |
Hi Christine, I use all of the above for fuzzies removal. After I drill my holes I usually sand the back then after cutting an area -I take a break from sitting at the saw and burn off fuzzies using butane torch ( http://doityourself.com/invt/6335525# is the one I use) then sand the area that I just cut (using small Mouse sander). As always when I am done cutting use the small files for touching up places that you just can't get into with the sander. I also use a small abrasive cord to clean out veining that you can't get into with a file. Tom |
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I take one of my wifes pot scrubbers and cut a circle about the size of a half-dollar. Then I screw it to the end of my dremel tool and on low speed it will remove almost all of the fuzzies. Then lightly sand and you're ready to go. I've been doing this for 12 years and I can only remember breaking two pictures and that was before I slowed the speed down. |
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| | From: tas2181 | Sent: 5/4/2006 3:49 PM |
Nice tip Catfish- I'll have to try that. Are those the Scothbrite type pot scrubbers? Tom |
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Hi Christine, I to use ziploc gallon bags to store my cuttings in, but i dont seal the bags. In regards to "fuzzies" when i get thru cutting on intricate pieces, i use a rotary(dremel) tool with a very tiny grinder bit, takes a little time and u have to go slowly but it does make the cutting look very nice, i also go over the entire front and back with a palm sander afterwards. I have used a hobby knife on a few occassions as well. As for my blade storage i use an old tackle box i have and label the different slots for the many sizes i use, i can also keep my knives, pencils, and other assorted small tools in it also. Happy Cutting, Rockn |
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| | From: Kefer0 | Sent: 8/3/2006 6:42 AM |
Hi,
I read all of the suggestions here and I've tried most of them with varying degrees of success. I just tried a new method that is really working well for me. Dremel makes finishing abrasive buffs (I'm using the coarse grit brown-colored one) in those little packs of accessories, #511. On a low to medium-low setting they remove 99% of the fuzzies, even in those tiny accent lines. I guess this is kind of like the pot scrubber idea, but these are ready to mount to the mandrel. This technique has cut my sanding time down considerably! Hope this is helpful to you. Kefer0 |
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My hubby thinks I'm obsessed with sanding! But, reading these posts, I'm normal!! LOL! I have a vise grip mounted on a small utility table and clamped in it is another clamp, the kind that moves up and down with the little screw that has a plastic foot on it. I put my cutting between two small boards and clamp it down then I cut little strips of sand paper to sand the cutouts and veining. Sometimes I use my Dremel, but I just prefer my little strips of sandpaper. Sometimes I put a coat of poly on the whole bit (pour the poly in a pan and soak the piece) then it's easier to sand the fuzzies off because they are not as soft anymore. If I think I can get away with it I use my palm sander. I really like the blow torch idea, wish I had one! Seems like it would make things go a bit faster. ~ScrollHappy |
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Hi i use emery boards or finger nail files that you can buy at Dollar General store 2 pks for $1.00 what is nice about them is you can cut them with scissors in half and make thin sanding files to do the inside sanding or filing. I also have a set of small very fine Needle wood files that i use Also. I have seen them in Sloan's woodshop catalog. I got mine at a flea market. Hope this helps. |
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