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| | From: tas2181 | Sent: 4/28/2005 1:50 PM |
Michael, I try to store my plywood flat if in smaller pieces- according to what I have read the biggest thing is to avoid moisture. Store off the floor and inside if possible. If you need to store vertically to save space, store as vertically as possible. When storing flat make sure that it is supported well so you don't get any sag. Tom(tas2181) |
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| | From: Bob C. | Sent: 4/28/2005 2:03 PM |
To ensure that the quality of the plywood sheets is maintaned I would recommend shipping the majority (all) of the wood to me,for safe keeping, it will be kept in a secured enviroment and location until you need it, to provent warpage and moisture damage. |
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It is my understanding that the suggested storage method for plywood of all thicknesses is to store it vertically. Those massive horizontally stored stacks of plywood at the lumberyards are based on the way they arrived, convenience and the fact that they won't be there very long. Of course, store it indoors. To keep it nearly vertical and off the floor, consider placing 2 x 4s on the floor sticking out from the wall and stacking the sheets of plywood against the wall as vertical as you can. If they start bending, put a thicker sheet of plywood against the wall first and then lay the thinner sheets against it flat. Much of my plywood goes back over 10 years and is fine stacked that way, even the exotic wood veneered panels. Gary Portland, Oregon, where it is really wet outside |
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| | From: mousey | Sent: 4/28/2005 6:40 PM |
Gary ~ So what does one do if they have 8x10 slab of 1/8" BB cut and I'm storing them in a file cabinet drawer inside the house (basement ) and the wood is starting to slightly warp? I have stacked it horizontially, in a stack of approximately 60 pieces. No sure what I can do to stop it from warping ? Just got to make sure I see it. LOL Mousey |
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Ha! Your too funny!<o:p></o:p>
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Mousey,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I had the same problem with a large supply of 1/16, 1/8 and thinner model airplane plywood. The approach I took was the same one advised for solid wood. Take the pieces and line them up, one at a time, almost vertically against a wall in your house. Actually, I lined them up along the wall in a hall in my house. Once a week, turn them around so the other face is against the wall. Slowly, they will flatten out as much as possible. This is also one of the best excuses for not vacuuming the floor in that area.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> The alternative for very thin plywood is to treat it like veneer. Attack it with your steam iron set to medium, do this on both sides with the wood backed by a hard solid surface, then quickly put it into your vacuum press, veneer press or between heavy boards and park your truck on top of it. Leave it there until it dries, at least a few days. If it can flatten, it will flatten.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Gary</st1:place></st1:City><o:p></o:p> |
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| (1 recommendation so far) | Message 8 of 10 in Discussion |
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Well I have since left the $300 dollars of 1/4" plywood stacked vertically and found that almost every one of them has at least 1/4" of bow or twist in them. I am pissed to say the least. I cannot even get my solid inlay pieces to stay stuck to the boards with carpet tape due the twist/bow in the plywood. I have them stacked horizontally one top of one another with heavy weight on them now. I am at a loss if this does work though. I hate wood warpage with a passion! |
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when i have a lot of 1/4 inch plywood that i,m not going to use for a while, i take some 1/2 ply or 3/4 ply and sandwich the 1/4 ply between. add about 6 ratcheting clamps, and its good to go. it does,nt illiminate all the bowing, but what i have to deal witk is minimal. jerry |
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| | From: Bob C. | Sent: 5/13/2005 4:41 AM |
When ever I purchase Baltic birch eighter 1/8 or 1/4 inch I cut it the same day, I cut my blanks to 111/16" x 11 15/16" so I get 25 per sheet, I have always layed mine flat and really do not have a problem with warppage. Having said that, I guess I do get a small percenatage of warp but when matching my pieces before glueing up I always match bows. If I have really warpped blanks I match then with a 1/4 inch warp in the opposite direction.and it usually works out where I do not get alot of drag when cutting. If I do get some bad warp after cutting I match them and place a 1/4" x 1/4 " strip the length on one edge with a 25 lb dumb bell on top until I am ready for them. I usually cut up 300 to 500 blanks at a time. I like everyone else hate warpage but can always match pieces for little or no drag. Hope I have explained this well enought for everyone Bob C |
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