MSN Home  |  My MSN  |  Hotmail
Sign in to Windows Live ID Web Search:   
go to MSNGroups 
Free Forum Hosting
 
Important Announcement Important Announcement
The MSN Groups service will close in February 2009. You can move your group to Multiply, MSN’s partner for online groups. Learn More
scroll saw portraits[email protected] 
  
What's New
  
  Show all boards  
  Welcome Message  
  Site Overview  
  Help and FAQ's  
  Kwik Kuts  
  Free Patterns  
  Free patterns  
  |||||Topic Boards|||||  
  General  
  Tool Talk  
  Craft Business  
  Tips/Techniques  
  Blades/Wood/etc.  
  Pattern Help  
  New Pics & Patts  
  ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||  
  Photo albums  
  Picture Album Index  
  Pictures  
  Scrollinrose  
    
  Pattern Making Tips  
  PM Documents  
  SSP Chat  
  Off Topic  
  Links  
  Resources  
  Reserved  
  Pattern Request Pictures  
  Hidden  
  Pattern Resources  
  
  
  Tools  
 
Blades/Wood/etc. : Recommended storage of 1/4" plywood
Choose another message board
 
     
Reply
(2 recommendations so far) Message 1 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamexeno1283  (Original Message)Sent: 4/28/2005 6:48 AM
I have about 20 2'x2' 1/4" sheets of plywood. Right now I have them laying on edge. What is the recommended method of storage to minimize warpage?


First  Previous  2-10 of 10  Next  Last 
Reply
 Message 2 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknametas2181Sent: 4/28/2005 1:50 PM
Michael,
I try to store my plywood flat if in smaller pieces- according to what I have read the biggest thing is to avoid moisture. Store off the floor and inside if possible. If you need to store vertically to save space, store as vertically as possible. When storing flat make sure that it is supported well so you don't get any sag.
 
Tom(tas2181)

Reply
 Message 3 of 10 in Discussion 
From: Bob C.Sent: 4/28/2005 2:03 PM
To ensure that the quality of the plywood sheets is maintaned I would recommend shipping the majority  (all) of the wood to me,for safe keeping,  it will be kept in a secured enviroment and location until you need it, to provent warpage and moisture damage. 

Reply
 Message 4 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameGaryLaroffSent: 4/28/2005 4:53 PM
It is my understanding that the suggested storage method for plywood of all thicknesses is to store it vertically.  Those massive horizontally stored stacks of plywood at the lumberyards are based on the way they arrived, convenience and the fact that they won't be there very long.
 
Of course, store it indoors.  To keep it nearly vertical and off the floor, consider placing 2 x 4s on the floor sticking out from the wall and stacking the sheets of plywood against the wall as vertical as you can.  If they start bending, put a thicker sheet of plywood against the wall first and then lay the thinner sheets against it flat.
 
Much of my plywood goes back over 10 years and is fine stacked that way, even the exotic wood veneered panels.
 
Gary
Portland, Oregon, where it is really wet outside

Reply
 Message 5 of 10 in Discussion 
From: mouseySent: 4/28/2005 6:40 PM
Gary ~
So what does one do if they have 8x10 slab of 1/8" BB cut and I'm storing them in a file cabinet drawer inside the house (basement ) and the wood is starting to slightly warp?  I have stacked it horizontially, in a stack of approximately 60 pieces.
 
No sure what I can do to stop it from warping ?
Let me know at [email protected] as well as sharing your wisdom on board.
Just got to make sure I see it. LOL
 
Mousey

Reply
 Message 6 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamexeno1283Sent: 4/28/2005 11:24 PM

Ha! Your too funny!<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

 <o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>


Reply
 Message 7 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN NicknameGaryLaroffSent: 4/29/2005 5:02 PM

Mousey,<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

I had the same problem with a large supply of 1/16, 1/8 and thinner model airplane plywood.  The approach I took was the same one advised for solid wood.  Take the pieces and line them up, one at a time, almost vertically against a wall in your house.  Actually, I lined them up along the wall in a hall in my house.  Once a week, turn them around so the other face is against the wall.  Slowly, they will flatten out as much as possible.  This is also one of the best excuses for not vacuuming the floor in that area.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

The alternative for very thin plywood is to treat it like veneer.  Attack it with your steam iron set to medium, do this on both sides with the wood backed by a hard solid surface, then quickly put it into your vacuum press, veneer press or between heavy boards and park your truck on top of it.  Leave it there until it dries, at least a few days.  If it can flatten, it will flatten.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

<st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Gary</st1:place></st1:City><o:p></o:p>


Reply
(1 recommendation so far) Message 8 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamexeno1283Sent: 5/12/2005 5:52 AM
 Well I have since left the $300 dollars of 1/4" plywood stacked vertically and found that almost every one of them has at least 1/4" of bow or twist in them. I am pissed to say the least. I cannot even get my solid inlay pieces to stay stuck to the boards with carpet tape due the twist/bow in the plywood. I have them stacked horizontally one top of one another with heavy weight on them now. I am at a loss if this does work though. I hate wood warpage with a passion!

Reply
 Message 9 of 10 in Discussion 
From: MSN Nicknamebushbeast1968Sent: 5/13/2005 1:30 AM
when i have a lot of 1/4 inch plywood that i,m not going to use for a while, i take some 1/2 ply or 3/4 ply and sandwich the 1/4 ply between. add about 6 ratcheting clamps, and its good to go.
it does,nt illiminate all the bowing, but what i have to deal witk is minimal.
                                                                jerry

Reply
 Message 10 of 10 in Discussion 
From: Bob C.Sent: 5/13/2005 4:41 AM
When ever I purchase Baltic birch eighter 1/8 or 1/4 inch I cut it the same day, I cut my blanks to 111/16" x 11 15/16" so I get 25 per sheet, I have always layed mine flat and really do not have a problem with warppage. Having said that, I guess I do get a small percenatage of warp but when matching my pieces before glueing up I always match bows. If I have really warpped blanks I match then with a 1/4 inch warp in the opposite direction.and it usually works out where I do not get alot of drag when cutting. If I do get some bad warp after cutting I match them and place a 1/4" x 1/4 " strip the length on one edge with a 25 lb dumb bell on top until I am ready for them. I usually cut up 300 to 500 blanks at a time. I like everyone else hate warpage but can always match pieces for little or no drag. Hope I have explained this well enought for everyone
Bob C

First  Previous  2-10 of 10  Next  Last 
Return to Blades/Wood/etc.