Sounds like you are over sanding if you are seeing the next ply showing through. I usually just presand with 180 or 220 grit prior to cutting anything. Would depend upon the quality of the original surface if I use anything more coarse. 

After cutting I use a butane torch for burning the fuzzies of the back of the piece and sand.  I lightly sand again using 220 grit on the front and back.

As far as the blotchiness, that sounds like you are applying a finish too soon and the blo isn't completely dry. I am assuming you are not using the water-based Deft but the regular oil-based over the oil.

If you are using a blo/mineral spirits on the piece once it is applied wipe off any excess and let dry at least 24 hours before applying any other finish, not only to let the oil dry but to let the mineral spirits completely evaporate.

I don't use steel wool because of the little metal fuzzies that catch in the piece, if I need to go over the finish I use the 3M finishing pads.

Maybe if you would elaborate a little more on your finishing procedure we can figure it out.

 

Tom

 

Before applying pattern, I pre-sand w/120 or 150grit.  Then I apply self-adhesive 'shelf liner' from dollar store before applying the pattern... this stuff sticks just good enough to hold the pattern but not so much that I cannot remove the entire thing in 1 or 2 pieces without it pulling off delicate pieces and without need to soak it with mineral spirits (which ofen leaves a tacky layer of dissolved adhesive which requires a lot more sanding) .  If stack cutting (which I usually do cuz one piece of 1/8" plywood cuts too easily to control the blade.), I assemble the stack now and use packing tape to hold it together.  If cutting ornaments or other non-framed items, I use nails in several waste areas to hold the stack together tighter than tape at the edges can.

 

After cutting, it is difficult to sand much, but I do mildly sand, especially the backside, with 150 or 180 grit.  I file or sand the 'fuzzies' after burning off whatever I can from the backside.  I clear off the dust w/compressed air (cuz tack cloth catches too easily).  Then I apply stain, if I choose to stain... which is less than half the time... and I let it dry several hours or overnight cuz it's after midnight by now.

 

Then I apply 2-4 coats of clear acrylic or lacquer spray, letting it dry several hours (or overnight depending on time of night!) in between coats and a light 'scuff' sanding w/220 or higher on all coats except the last.  These last sandings are light and depend on how it feels to touch and how it looks on reflection in light.  I have enough coats when it feels and looks good, but it seems to be a minimum of 2 and usually 3-5 w/ avg of 4.

 

BTW, I only use semi-gloss spray, never gloss... it's my personal preference cuz semi-gloss can still look like wood and gloss looks more like plastic to me.  (IMHO, gloss is for things that will be handled a lot and will need wiping down... which doesn't describe 99.5% of our scrolling projects.)

 

Spence

 

PS  I don't think you should be sanding above 150-180 before applying the spray finish... 220 is too high... and I have no idea how to use steel wool on a fret type portrait without ruining the project by ripping out delicate pieces... I use sandpaper with a flat sanding block and I don't press down too hard on the cutting.

I wouldn't use the wood glue or Elmer's glue as it probably is soaking into the wood and sealing the pores making the stain or blo mixture unable to penetrate. Most people use a spray glue, like the 3M super 77 or Duro, apply it to the back of the paper and glue it to the wood. Some put blue painters tape on first and glue to that to eliminate the problems of any glue residue. If you apply directly to the wood you may need to use mineral spirits to remove any glue residue.

Personally I put on blue painters tape, print out my patterns on full sheet labels and put them on the blue painters tape and then usually cover that with clear packaging tape.

The rest of your steps seem OK other than using the steel wool which I don't care for.

Read the labels on your finishes to see if they are compatible. They will usually say what you can use them with/over.

 

Tom