What kind of water do you expect to be in: Lake/River, whitewater, ocean-going?
If you are the primary user and only passenger most of the time, you probably will (a) load gear forward, (b) Put yourself in a 1/3-2/3 configuration with yourself seated at the 33% line or so. This means you will want a thwart just aft of that position to support your back when paddling.
You will probably appreciate a center thwart with a yoke slightly forward of the balance point so you can carry it from the cartopper rack to the water.
If it's just you in the canoe, make sure you plan for foolproof airtight compartments or built-in flotation; a stripper canoe plus its related fiberglas and resin isn't necessarily bouyant--in fact, will more likely be neutrally bouyant if beefed up with lots of glass. This is especially important if you plan to have gear lashed in that doesn't float, or will sink if it's wet.
In a solo 16-footer, you will want the boat to be responsive to your efforts to steer it if your propulsion system is just you and the paddle. This suggests that you build in at least 1.5" to as much as 3" of rocker (bowing in the spine of the canoe), and minimize keelstrips, both to minimize resistance to turning moment. Not true if you want to sail it, though.
Those anticipating big-water solo trips, usually plan in some extra stability (width, plus raised gunwhales to resist wave action. Maybe extra fullness in bow and stern). They don't want to tip over out there.
Another thing to consider is wind resistance at the bow: a 16-footer with a big snout can exert a lot of leverage against the poor, tired paddler in the stern. Consider instead having enclosed decks or hatches up forward, with a lower profile, like the kayak idea. You could use a thin cowling to deflect any spray or chop-splash from entering the cockpit area.
A stripper will build you a really strong boat. But not necessarily the lightest one, depending on (a) the wood you choose (b) its thickness and length of strips (c) the width of the strips (and the copnsequent number of glue joints) (d) the number and weight of the fiberglas coats on the outside and (optional) inside. Similar boats are available using three-ply 1/8" strips or planks, with lighter weight, but I have no information about relative strength. I do know that carrying a heavy canoe any long distance by your ownself is a quick deterrent to unnecessary bulk and sturdiness.
Let me know what you think of these comments...do they apply to your planning?
JR Sloan
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